Sam Morgan Moore

Well you can have the camera high above the gimbal (im not saying you should or that that would count as 'proper' balance) - my camera needs to ride a little high The maths was hypothetical BTW Generally the arm works best for me in max lift settings - so I must be close.. S

http://www.steadicam.com/images/content/Steadicam_Pilot_0609sm.pdf "The Pilot is for 2-10lb cameras." Steadicam Literature I guess this assumes loading the bottom with Pilot parts as it ships.. For example my Transvideo monitor is heavier than the pilot standard monitor and my Vlock is 3rd party - so may or many not be heavier I would guess lets say Ive upped the bottom of my rig by 2LB the rig would only be good for an 8LB camera Obviously I would have to count lens matte box or any other topside gubbins in that 8LB Thats how Id read it S

Indeed my 5d2 works fine been on the rig for years- Im thinking about upgrading it to anohter camera- it appears the 5d3 works fine too (which I didnt know this morning) and cameras like the D800 or Nex5/7 would need the box Yep - I hate HDMI and like the BNC leads so that makes sense In terms of my 5d I always use the AV lead because the HDMI is only 480px when rolling anyway and I prefer the better conection - its a sad day when a 1/4 jack is the better connection ! Other cameras - D800, FS100 look way better as they feed full 1080 from the HDMI Over and out! S

Thank you CHarles and Anthony. Running out of posts for today ! My 5d gives out 'A/V' which is a lead going to three RCAs (1 picture plus 2 sound??) - which would make it Component? But my monitor has one input CVBS - which would make it Composite Yet they play with each other So do I need a HDMI to Component or HDMI to Composite A side point.. HD-SDI, Component and Composite all use BNC connectors of the same size yet wont work together Clear .. as mud .. Wiki Time :) S

Sorry I dont know the diff between composite and analogue (I dont even own a TV and dont have a background in video cams) Ill check that - the price is indeed right and the mass/size http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0055MXRW6/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0047PDBP0&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=1KSA1E067MPDN4NJDQP1 You can see a dc 5vin THanks S

http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/HDMI-to-Component-Converter-6-foot-HDMI-Cable/6055589/product.html?cid=133635 ?

My FS100 and 5d and EX1 are all good - I might stick to flying them Here is a link to the connectivity of the 5d3 it says AVout digital from what I can read http://3.s.img-dpreview.com/files/news/6330996218/canon5dmkiii_4.jpg?v=1441

Im assuming the Transvideo monitor is analogue - Id have to look up the model number but its just an SD baby version From Twitter! dont know about this one either http://www.hurlbutvisuals.com/blog/2011/07/marshall-goes-rugged-with-hdmi-conversion-by-tim-holtermann/ I think this is my monitor.. 5" Rainbow Xtreme SuperBright http://www.transvideointl.com/en/node/286 S

Cool I will check that box out Fair point about Pilot owners - mine is a kind of extreme version with that monitor and a HoFo - a little big rig -- A point came up on TwitterChat to 'correct' my first post - the Canon 5dmk3 appaerntly has analogue out like the 5d2 The D800 may not - and thats the camera I would prefer to upgrade my 5d2 from - it just got $500 more expensive! Thanks for the input SaMMM

Thanks for clarifying the Decimator - as I thought It is possible to go HDMI - I have a DP6 - a nice monitor but no good in the sun My transvideo monitor is a proper daylight viewable and expensive unit Id prefer to stick with that - also I like for speed of set ups to have a dedicated monitor on my Steadicam while using another montior (the DP6) for Sticks and Shoulder shooting Having HD is (to me) of less value on a steadicam because we either dont focus or focus using preplanned marks and a puller who probably wont be on the monitor - neither system need an HD monitor Best SamMM

This ? http://www.decimator.com/Products/MD_Quad/MD_Quad.html Does it have HDMI in? Is "(3G/HD/SD)-SDI" the same signal that runs the Pilot? Sorry very ignorant of such things! S

Hello (posting in the newb section due to being about 'cheap' cameras) The newer DSLR and other mini cameras like the Nex7 seem only to have (generally mini) HDMI as an output for monitoring I think this is the case for both the Nikon D800 and Canon5dmk3 My Pilot which I have upgraded with a Transvideo daylight monitor is analogue Does anyone know of a 'black box' that could take the HDMI signal and output it as analogue ? Thanks Sam MM

The D3 has a pretty high CofM, I reckon its tricky to set up with the merlin 50mm is also a long lens for a newb Id try something like a 28 prime S

I think I managed to wangle just the sled :) Remember the main 'limitation' of the Merlin is probably still your operating !

yes, using a small camera you could mount it on a small block and lift it up a little and increase the inertia but considering the toughness of the merlin and the fatigue of operating (no vest) I would not bother I would enjoy the merlin for what it is and consider a bigger rig for more demanding shots/cameras S

Your rig is kept stable by inertia Inertia is Mass X distance from gimbal Squared A Pilot typically has twice the mass, double the distance from the gimbal, that makes it 16X more stable than the Merlin As for the 5d and those lenses.. they are fine on the merlin Id use the 24 prime as you might find the zoom mechanisim in the other lens causes 'jitter' Its a bit lighter too and easier on the arm S

You must control the rig with a thumb and forefinger - thats how steadicam works.. steadicams must be controlled If you dont you will be frustrated for ever Which T+F is your choice but IMO its much easier to do with the hand that is not supporting the rig S

Thats a big lens so the camera is going to have to be mounted a bit back Its quite heavy so I guess you will need at least three weights below S

You are aware that the frotto lever is a ratchet? Pull the lever out and reposition Id still prefer it with a 1/4 or 6mm plate underneath to give the fingers a little more wiggle room Such a plate could be made with a hacksaw and a drill - not a major op if you get some 1/4 by 1.5 inch plate (or 2 inch) S

Im a newb so dont like to comment on operating First corner you lose it coming out There are some terrible horizons both Roll when you are following and the side on follow is at about 20 degrees off Too much headroom and cropping of hands is painful Often the subject is off centre with no motivation to that composition Failure to boom as you close in on the subject Shootng in a forest is a classic way to hide bad operating you shuold practice in a built up environment with lots of verticals Operating just gets harder when your structured moves make you try and place the camera in specific locatons, start it and stop it, control headroom etc I can pretty much make a camera move towards an X but folowing someone round a corner I move away from the subject to make my pan speed lower and have to boom down to control headroom with that loosening of composition then boom and tighten out of the corner while still trying to keep the rig flat When I practice moves like that its when i realise how much I have to learn - but it all comes from trying to sustain good composition S

Im a newb coming from the background of photography I would encourage you to press pause, and ask yourself 'is this a nice photo' I think often the answer is no in this 'reel' Once you can see nice images you can learn to put them together using a steadicam say the rotation shot it would be great to spin round the photographer and arrive at the image he is composing, and lock off there, but that shot, like all the others has no motivation or purpose when you know what you are trying to do you will up the operator skills until your body can create the shots your mind wants At the moment I see no thought so no amount of physical skill will lead to interesting shots .. IMO S

Thanks - Im British BTW - never been the the US so all very handy One page I have found .. http://www.britishairways.com/travel/bagchk/public/en_gb Gives some sizes Thanks a again SMM

no one?

BTW my longest item seems to be my pilot post which is 56cm I also have Vlock batteries but they are supposedly the within the flyable watt/hours rating my gear currently lives in 'really useful' hard plastic boxes, all perfect sizes,very un glam, I could just strap them shut S

Not only am I a newb to flying the camera (in a shot) Im also new to traveling with the gear So I maybe dong a little trip both EU and USA In the past as a still photograper ive just rammed everything valuable into my hand lugguage and stashed the other bits in a cheap plastic unmarked suitcase Generaly Ive casualy walked on smiling with my little bag that wieghs 15kg carrying it like it was a feather and smiling some more A couple of times Ive got nailed for a few $ excess baggage What is the proper way to do this? Pilot follow focus, some cameras, maybe three peli cases of valuable toys I could even DHL the cases in advance ? What abut customs /imports paperwork etc We are talking one man band here .. not feature Thanks S