David Karger

Rig is SOLD! Thank you all for your interest.

Rig has had light use and is in excellent condition cosmetically and functionally. Both Fore/Aft and Side-to-Side movement of the top stage is motorized and can be controlled remotely with the included rechargeable controller. Selling as a kit. $22,000. Comes with the following: Archer II sled G-50X arm (original, not upgrade) LX vest with duffle bag 4 IDX batteries 4 station IDX charger Battery mount for bottom of sled Low mode bracket Remote control for top stage with charging cable T-handle tool for arm adjustment Monitor to sled power cable HDSDI cable Docking bracket Thermodyne case See link for additional photos: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zw26c541g7hpze2/AAD7s9NE9iLYL94QJl5HgyFma?dl=0

SOLD!

Price drop $7,000.

Bump

I have a full Zephyr HD kit for sale. Excellent condition. I’ve upgraded to the Archer 2. The kit includes the following: Zephyr Sled Zephyr Vest Zephyr Arm Marshall 7” HD Monitor (with power cable) SD Monitor (Steadicam) Zephyr Docking Bracket Zephyr Rolling Case 4 Merlin Weights 2 IDX Endura 7S Batteries IDX Endura VL-2 Plus Dual Position Battery Charger I live in Atlanta. Price is $7500. Here is a link to the pics. Thanks for looking. Dave https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ty6zt3gvhkrngcb/AABaJgyAu2uPeNcPT9y3h0Joa?dl=0

Would anyone happen to know of someone renting a Segway in Atlanta? Thanks. Dave

In case anyone is still reading this thread, I just ordered the pin directly from Jergens for about $35. This was the four-pin, heavy duty steel version, part number 806427-4B, just as Chris Van Campen had said. McMaster-Carr wanted $75 for the same pin, so Jergens is probably the way to go.

This rig was made by the Steadicam factory, using off the shelf parts mostly from the Flyer LE and some from the Flyer. The stage and gimbal are Flyer LE parts. Standard Def version. Comes with soft case and Steadistand. IDX mount. $5,000 USD. Batteries and charger are not included. Thanks for looking.

Hi Dave. Also, check out the TVlogic monitor http://goo.gl/3Zqqq It's not much brighter, but If I remember correctly it's as bright as the Flyer monitor. With a hood it could work. It has HDMI, and HDMI to SDI conversion. less than 1/5 lbs. -- use it on the rig, or take it off for other jobs. As for adding weight to adjust inertia. that's smart. I went to a tire repair shop and got several lbs of lead from them. (it was used, and free) hammered them straight and wrapped them in black tape. Put velcro on them and I could add them to any surface. It's not ideal, but if you have a static monitor and battery it helps. (EFPs were like that) And it looks better than a silver clamp. =) Hope that helps some. Thanks Bryan, Good to hear from you. Really enjoyed NAB. We had a shoot right near your house the next week with Scott.

I guess I had two reasons for wanting a different monitor. The first is by far the most important. I usually fly the 5D Mkii, and because the codec has so little latitude in post, my exposure and color temp have to be captured just about perfectly in camera. The stock monitor does not allow me see an accurate rendition of either, so I always have to unplug the Steadicam monitor cable and check the in-camera monitor whenever I change exposure or color temp (i.e. every shot). This slows me down and is just unpleasant. Much less importantly, I also wanted a heavier monitor, because right now I am adding superclamps to my monitor arm in order to get weight up front so I can set the batteries more towards horizontal to add pan inertia. And since I also want a field monitor for tripod use, I thought the 9" would be a good dual use monitor. But I can definitely see Janice's point about size and weight being problematic. Anyway, those were my thoughts, and any comments on those would be very welcome. Thanks again. Dave

Janice, Thanks very much. Those are very helpful comments. I appreciate the feedback.

Mark, I'm sure you don't remember, but I was at Showcase the day you picked up your Zephyr, asking a bunch of questions about it. Since that, I have bought my Flyer LE, and joined the forum. I really appreciate the fact that you so freely give advice to so many people in the community, and thanks for your answers to this post. Dave

Hey everyone, I am looking at a Flanders Scientific 9" monitor for my Flyer LE. I have two questions. First, the max brightness on this monitor is 300 nits. Is that generally sufficient for Steadicam work or should I look elsewhere for a higher brightness monitor? Secondly, does anyone know where I can get a breakout cable that would attach from my Flyer's 9-pin connector to the new monitor's XLR (power) and BNC (SDI) connectors? Thanks! Dave

I have a Flyer LE, and I have a need to get the camera as low as possible - preferably skimming just above the ground. The rig has a two-piece post, and the gimbal can only go as far down (towards the battery) as the post's locking lever. So the camera flies well above the ground in low mode. Does anyone know if there is equipment or there are techniques to get the camera lower in low mode? I was thinking that maybe an extended pin in the F-bracket might work, but not sure if that is possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Dave

OK, thanks. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to destroy something.

Hey, I have a Flyer LE and I am wondering if anyone has any advice regarding how tight or loose the arm post (the thing the gimbal handle attaches to) should be with regard to rotating. The arm post appears to be made with a bushing, not a bearing, and when I received my rig (used) the arm post was pretty stiff to turn. I loosened it up a bit, but not sure if that was the correct thing to do. Thanks. Dave

Hey everyone, I just bought a Flyer LE and am reading the manual trying to achieve dynamic balance. The problem is that when I try to spin my sled on the Steadistand, the monitor hits the center post of the stand, so I can't really tell if it has dynamic balance very well. I only get about 3/4 of a turn before the monitor hits. It doesn't say anything about this in the manual. It seems to suggest that I should be able to spin the sled around continuously for numerous rotations. Anybody have any ideas? Am I doing something wrong?