Due to some emerging health issues, I will not be able to provide the quality of service that I desire. It has been a lot of fun working with you, but I have to take some time off.
If my memory serves me right, I sent an EFP Bottom stage to Sal at Cinematic Precision to have him make a copy of it. He might still have the measurements to make you one. If not I can remove your cracked one and we can send it to Sal.
Hey Ozzie. Happy to see you are doing well!
I wouldn’t mind seeing it plugged into the Stanton. Don’t have one though. But I will in the next day or two. I will have Rob bring his by the shop. He originally asked for it. It’s Mogami Cable, so it’s not stiff. It’s about 6” long and I can plug one end into the other.
I was chatting with Rob the other day. He told me that there was a need for this.
It’s a Stanton 12pin Hirose Right Angle Adaptor Cable. It attaches to the present cable to give a right angle coming off the Stanton.
Yes they were for the model 1. These were taken before my time with Steadicam. That would put them about 45 years old. I’ve been doing a lot of digging old stuff from my files. These pictures, as well as the two Teddy rig pictures hung above my workbench for years.
I still have the Moviecam Super Service Manual in my file cabinet. I do have an odd assortment of stuff. The Academy came by the shop to pick up the early model Steadicam schematics that I had filed away for the last forty years. Garrett told me that they have the Steadicam that I show in my forum picture.
When I would travel to the workshop, back in the early days. I would have wires, cutters, a small soldering iron and batteries in a carry-on bag. These days I would be called a terrorist! Times have changed!
How many of you can find old Steadicam stuff in the closet like this?
Evolution of Steadicam test fixtures from the mid 70’s through Steadicam III.
The first one was used from early Steadicam. The second was the one I built in order to build and test the Steadicam II electronics. The third was for the Steadicam III circuit boards.
Hi Joe. You should already have HD lines running down the post.
The Master was built with multiple coaxial lines. What you should do is disconnect the coax that goes to the 4-pin Hirose supplying Composite Video to the Monitor. You dont use the comp video much any more.
Since there isnt enough room in the front section for a true HD coax, you will need to wire to a comp vid BNC. You must keep this connection as short as possible. HD hates losing its coax orientation.
Next you need to find the other end of this coax and wire it to a BNC in the lower stage. That will be one of the three BNC connectors that will be replaced with an HD style BNC.
This procedure normally take about three hours for me to do. So with parts it usually runs about $500-$600.