Twojay Dhillon

Posting for a good friend, please contact him using any of the methods at the bottom of this posting. He's looking to get ~ $10k.

Preston Single Channel System

The V+F Lens Control is G4 and was purchased in 2012. It is essentially brand new and in perfect working condition. Included items: 15mm Mounting Bracket & On/off/Power Combo Cable (3-pin fischer: Arri 24V, Sony F65 )

Focus/Iris Handset is very clean and has been part of my main FIZ package since 2008. It has had very little use since I purchased it primarily only for Iris pulls when needed.

It is upgraded to G4 and is in perfect working condition.

Handset comes with 8 marking rings & 1 battery.

DM-2 Motor with Hill Bracket.

It was purchased in 2008 and has normal wear and tear. Pulls strong but not silent. Included with 2 motor cables

Please email me with any questions or requests for more details.

Jonas Maximus Steadman

1st Assistant Camera

310.910.4541

Channelsix@me.con

ElGringoGrande@me.com

@TwojayDhillon

Wow! Excellent, excellent work! A pleasure to watch; Every move felt motivated and added to the atmosphere and emotion. Neutral?! Nice!!

I am in London but Febuary the 14th is a prime evening to go chasing girls; so on that basis I charge more than usual. Give me a shout though if you need any advice.

I wanted these!!!!

Still in shock that that hasn't sold.

Idk, I sent a motor to Don for a repair recently because it was acting a bit twitchy. I received great communication, phone and email, and a fast 3 day turn around.

Potentiometer?

Chrosziel makes an excellent tilt-plate for the PRO, if that's the route you're looking to go, Justin.

I just picked these up recently and I think I may have finally found the perfect knee and shin protection for use during Steadicam Operating.

They are extremely lightweight, fit very snug and the impact absorption is provided by a newer material that stiffens upon impact. MotoGP and other such sports have been experimenting with this technology for their racesuits for a while now to protect their riders during get-offs of the bikes.

Other kneepads made me feel like I was getting ready to either garden or construct a building, and the only time I used shin protection I felt like I was playing cricket.

These have a near-naked feel:

Kneepads: http://g-form.com/products/knee-pad/

Shinpads: http://g-form.com/products/shin-pads/

And here is their YouTube channel, where they have many videos showing their products and the protective material being tested under a variety of conditions: http://www.youtube.com/user/GFormLLC

At $100 USD for a complete set, I see it as a great price for protection while maintaning range of motion and they are also extremely light. Check 'em out at many bicycle stores, especially ones that cater to the downhill/Xtreme category.

Babita is excellent, speedy, and offers a great price for the products!

INSANE deal!

I second BOXX or HP or MicroLite

I totally spaced on posting the results of my experiment:

The BOLT worked everytime whether the internal battery was completely discharged, or whether I let it charge to completely full, over-night. I had the cables made by Terry West.

The range against the BOXX, well... Let's just say the BOXX wins not just by a long-shot, but by a LOOOONNNGGGG shot (admittedly, we're talking $2k versus $18k). That said, I'm starting to get quite uncomfortable when I have a large microwave transmitter next to my head that can transmit a signal over such a great distance...

NIIIICE!!!

Here's a pic of the tools used, just in case there is some confusion

And this is the plate and screws removed

PART 2:

6) Loosen the Set Screws which are embedded in the rubber face of the Focus Knob using your 1.27mm allen wrench. There are two of these Set Screws on the Focus Knob. Both need to be loosened.

7) To adjust for INCREASED DRAG on the Focus Knob:

a) You will insert another allen wrench (I used the 2.5mm as it fit the holes very well) into the TOP SEMI-CIRCULAR SLOT, into the LEFT-MOST HOLE.

b.) Rotate the allen wrench CLOCKWISE all the way to the other side of the slot. This counts as ONE TURN as defined by PRESTON. Stock, from the factory, Handunits ship with 5 turns.

c) Re-tighten one of the set-screws on the circular side of the focus knob and give the focus knob a few turns. If additional drag is desired, loosen the set-screw and repeat steps a), b.), and c) until desired drag is reached.

8) Once desired drag-level is acquired and BOTH Set Screws have been tightened, MAKE SURE THAT YOU TIGHTEN DOWN ON THE LARGE CENTER PHILLIPS HEAD SCREW that you see in the picture above.

9) Replace the plate and small Phillips Head screws and you're done.

INCREASING/DECREASING THE DRAG OF THE FOCUS KNOB ON A PRESTON HU3 PART 1:

1) Assemble tools. You will need a 1.27mm allen wrench (I went cheapo/Harbor Freight), a medium Phillips Head screwdriver/bit, a small Phillips Head screwdriver/bit, and maybe even a very thin and strong instrument to pry/encourage displacement; I used a razor-blade.

2) Remove any pre-marked or blank focus rings

3) Turn Handunit on its side so that the flatside of the focus knob is looking up at you

4) Remove the two Phillips Head screws using the small screwdriver/bit, and then remove these items. Try inverting the handunit so that the plate simply drops out of its slot. If this doesn't work, gently use the razor/similar device to slip between the plate and housing to pry it out.

5) This is what you will see when the plate is off. Pay special attention to the fact that there are 3 holes exposed with in the semi-circular slots at the top and bottom; This is where you'll be making your adjustment.

Also of special note is that large, silver Phillips head screw right in the center; This will most likely be loose -- right now -- but after desired drag is reached it should be quite tight.

if you have a glidecam do you get change?

 

Only if you sidle up to the rail.

 

Track to the rail or circle to it?

I'd personally try for a push-in, but to answer your question: I think consulting your horoscope and cross-referencing that with which phase the moon is in -- with its resultant ebbs and flows -- will allow for a better answer of whether one should spin the stick on the gimbal or cha-cha with the devil.

if you have a glidecam do you get change?

Only if you sidle up to the rail.

JUMBO'S...

EDIT: oooh, the dyslexia works with that one!!! :wub: :wub: :wub:

*Uncomfortable silence* So... a dyslexic goes into a bra...

Trim for headroom and use your normal drop time, no need to change what you're training to, that's the fastest and easiest way to screw the shot. "Train like you fight and fight like you train" DO NOT make your drop time 1 second

 

Practice, that's what makes it work.

THIS. Moving quickly in a circular/lateral motion with a fast drop-time will yield the lower end of the rig swinging at/away from you, causing you to exert more influence into the rig (read: bad) and vis-a-vis the shot/framing.

Snapped a pic of this old docking bracket made by Cinema Products and named the West Docking Bracket, after Terry West.

Ideas for a test this weekend:

I just picked up my 4 pin VID/PWR cables from Mr. Terry West that will power my BOLT, this weekend, directly from the Upper J-Box of my GPI PRO sled. On Day 1 I will show up to set and run it with a fully-charged internal battery. I will leave the unit on and deplete the internal battery overnight. On Day 2 I will reconnect it to my seld with said completely-depleted internal battery and see how things go.

The shoots will be very fast-paced so I will have no time to pull out a voltmeter and take readings at different moments, so I figured the two extremes would provide some level of results that folks can cull some info from.

There will be two BOXX systems backing up the BOLT, so the shoot is in no danger of being without wireless HD.

Thoughts on this being a wise test, and ways to improve/expand upon it (while keeping in mind the lack of time of the production)? Thx, all, and Happy New Year!