Tuomas Viitakoski

Since the result looked like CGI I might have been okay with it if it had been CGI. But I'm not okay with risking crew, riders and horses for that..

Although I wasn't able to fry any of the devices I'm going to get one of the electrical isolator that Ken posted! Good to have in the kit and will be a good investment only if always plugged in.

Hi Michael, Didn't see your thread until now but glad that you got it working. The connectors'/cables' shielding is very normal issue. If you experience signal loss make sure all your cables have a solid center conductor (makes stiffer cables), copper braid shield and two-layered foil. And then, no matter how thick the BNC cable is but if the connector is lacking insulation it will most definitely cause this issue especially if the center conductor is exposed or missing proper shielding. Also 50/75Ohm BNC adapters (right angle adapters, BNC extensions etc) have been to be blaimed on some occasions. Once I had a HD-monitor that was working poorly with a regular BNC but then I wrapped foil (from 3G coax-cable) around the soldered panel connector and now +45 meters works fine. Poorly shielded BNCs and coiled cables are known to work as an antennas and being next to powerfull transmitters might mess up your signal. A proper cable with proper connectors (doesn't have to mean stiff and bulky) or a little fix with foil will make your day a lot better and doesn't cost much. Best, -Tuomas

and it has a fan on it so it'll piss of the sound department so the new housing should have cooling elements as well so wouldn't need the fan.

Had the same thing happening a while ago. Camera was powered from onboard battery and steadicam but ground warning was lit when I plugged in the PIX-240 recorder (powered from RS output) and connected the BNC. After thorough testings I couldn't find any faults but it was clear that IVS was the one causing the ground warning. Camera was used in production for 6 weeks and everything worked just fine. Here's the gear that was connected to the camera: ARRIFLEX 416 with OBB-2 onboard batteries Blackmagic Mini Converter ANALOG-SDI (powered from IVS) Sound Devices PIX-240 recorder (powered from IVS) Paralinx Crossbow SDI-HDMI converter with Paralinx ARROW Plus video transmitter (powered from RS) ARRI SMC-1 single motor controller (powered from RS)

This test was very informative but entertaining as well: http://video.wired.com/watch/out-of-office-with-brent-rose-rideables-are-so-hot-right-now-we-put-them-to-the-test

Cine tape measure is every focus puller's dream. pro tip for buyers: when pulling focus with ARRI's WCU-4 and UMC-4, get a connection cable from Cine tape to UMC-4 to enable autofocus for any camera and lens (mapped to UMC-4's lens data archive). Autofocus is launched by pushing the red "zap" button on WCU-4 and the data from Cine tape will automatically pull focus to the distance ultra sonic range finder calculates. Works pretty well but will never replace a focus puller. http://cvp.com/index.php?t=product/arri_k2.65063.0 and extension tubes are very good to have: http://www.cinemaelec.com/products/cinetapemeasure_extubes.php

Don't know for sure but these specs might help to answer your questions Brian! http://cinescopophilia.com/cvw-100-wireless-hd-video-transmitter-receiver-via-hdmi/ http://www.cinegearpro.com/cvw-eagle-110-wireless-hd-video-system-realtime-for-hdmi.html

Weeeeeellll... booked flights and flew to Munich to try it myself, photos below. But first my thoughts: Construction: Nice, rigid. Feels bombproof.Design: The frame might still be looking for its final form and features.Weight: yup that was heavy with an Amira.. but that is why Walter Klassen has Slingshot!Electronics: Running on a single battery (this one used PAG v-mount battery). The battery died eventyally and when it was disconnected it felt like the gimbal's motors were still... ..on? Unfortunately didn't see the Remote Radio Control. Btw, this one gentleman from FoMa Systems told me that the software was the final version and not based on AlexMos controller or something, entirely FoMa's design. Usability/operating in handheld mode: With WK's Slingshot the eyelevel was easier to maintain but there would still be some load to carry for your arms when using a heavier camera like Amira, Alexa and so on. The motors were oscillating a bit without effecting to the image. Usually indicates that there might be something wrong. No sudden fast pans or tilts! - pan/tilt could easily go off from the point zero (see first the first photo, Mr Betz helping me after I "broke" it). This can propably be fixed by adjusting the power to the motors from the software. Overall: For jib, crane as a remote head - Yes! It's a miniature remote head! Rigging to a vehicle - ..maybe! Depending on the software if it can take all the G-forces and sudden movements. Handheld with Slingshot - .. if all steadicams had died, then might consider - but a second operator with the Remote Radio Control might be needed. Panning is not too easy with the Slingshot and viewing your framelines can be difficult with limited visibility to your monitor depending on where it's mounted. Solo handheld - I really hope there's no need for that. Rigging to a steadicam - seems very unnecessary. No "AR like" shots. So for now that'll be end of this discussion.

Jens Piotrowski first mentioned the new Maxima 30 in his topic "IBC preview, new products" and didn't want to hijack that conversation since it's about the new products in general so going to ask you guys here; - What are your thoughts on the Maxima 30? The specs are nice/alright, price is something what I imagined but I still think there's something missing like what Michael Hauer was asking: Can you imagine wearing this piece of engineering? Maybe without the frame, on top of the sled or conneted to your arm directly..? As Herr Betz in the video mentioned it's too heavy to carry - but on jibs, cranes etc it has potential. Loved to see it stripped down. The MX30. Full specs on this website that runs properly only on Google Chrome browser: http://foma-systems.de/ (scroll down slooowly) -Tuomas P.S. the host is still scared of Garrett

I've used Butyl only as a permanent sealant. That's nasty stuff for cameras, it sits like stone and need a crowbar to remove. Gaffer tape is still the first option for filters but some quick fixes could be done with the Sugru mentioned above. Downside is the 24-hour curing time and that there are few things like nylon, ptfe and polycarbonate that the Sugru doesn't stick onto. Need to try that Black Tac as well. Then I have everything I need to have a kindergarten in my flat.

James, Found a supplier for this Sugru from Finland and going to fill my fridge with this stuff. Doesn't look professional but sometimes would need to attach a filter to a lens without mattebox - e.g. in MoVI use when weight starts to be a problem and gaffer cannot hold it. Rectangular filters have a bit rough edges so I think this'll stick pretty well after some hours so need to clean it up asap after use. Thanks for the tip!

I've seen some behind the scenes photos with people using this black putty to attach rectangular filter to round lens fronts and so on. Below is a photo of a MoVI rigged onto a car and spotted that there's a guy applying the same putty to attach the black thingie on top of a Anton/Bauer battery. - What is this putty? Fun-tak? Silly putty? Thinking putty? Play-doh?? photo source: http://machouseproductions.com/mythbusters-movi-drifting/ How do you use it? How does it perform in cold or heat? Some products seem to go back in to the "original" form like dough when others will harden in time and some are also magnetic. I'd just want to have sticky dough that attaches the filters in special occasions (plus magnets around cameras and cables is not so good idea). Any comments are welcome! - Tuomas

Bourns doesn't manufacture this 3600 series potentiometer anymore but you can get one of these refurbished ones: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BOURNS-3600S-KNOBPOT-10-TURN-PRECISION-POTENTIOMETER-100K-OHM-REFURBISHED-/231252408611

Hi Txema, Peder, It's usually best to charge the batteries with a same brand charger to avoid issues like warranty problems if something goes wrong. Globalmediapro's Li-Ion batteries use simple charging and will not properly work with intelligent charger like Anton Bauer's. I don't know the software in GMP's chargers but IDX VL-4S is well protected and charges in various stages. SWIT chargers are not visually too much different from GMP's so they might have pretty similar electronics as well so my guess is that they might not be as advanced as IDX's. I've been able to charge any V-mount battery with IDX chargers (except LE-UB-8/-12 of course). IDX chargers have detected some problems like imbalanced cells in a battery when the original charger have not. When you mix different brands you should keep eye also on the battery contacts because there are so many different versions & generations of those tiny banana plugs and sockets that they most likely don't match perfectly - but this is the case even with IDX batteries and IDX chargers - so if you see any marks of "welding", burnt or discolored metal (due heat) you propably should not use that combination any more. - Yes. These v-mount battery chargers usually charge batteries with 2-3A and I wouldn't charge with any higher Amps. (And you must remember the max output current rating of your battery doesn't mean you can charge it with same current.) I'd say IDX is safe if not actually the best option, Swit's charging current should be checked from the specs before use. I'm not giving you the definitive answer but hope this will help you to decide :) If still in doubt you can send an email to sales[at]globalmediapro.com - they are really nice and will quickly answer your questions. -Tuomas