Jarrett P. Morgan

Somehow I just went through United baggage check (literally typing this from the terminal) and they didn't charge me a cent for two 1660s (each weighing about 90 lbs) and a custom anvil sled case. I asked the agent and she said it may have something to do with being booked first class, but it should still cost me something. The computer seemed to disagree. I bet I just made the producer about $150 bucks happier.

Price?

I would email Magnus from Heden in Sweden. He should be able to help you out.

According to a recent email from Alana, the following products are at or are nearing end of service life: · Analog Film Only Micro Force Zoom Controls · Analog 12/24V Micro Force Zoom Controls · Analog V+F Micro Force Zoom Controls · Hand Unit 1 · Transmitter 1 · MDR-1 · Transmitter 2 · G3 boards for MDR2s · UHF units · Micro Servo · Digital Lens Control · Power Pod · Heden M26T motor (serviceable by Heden Engineering in Sweden) You should assume if you have or are buying any of these that parts will be impossible to get. Or at least I wouldn't assume that Preston will be able to/want to fix them. That all being said, I would check Cramped Attic or Terry West. And the MDR1 does not have a manual lens calibration.

Also, just throwing out another option: I have seen several folks now just use a composite to SD-SDI converter then throw a bolt 2000 on. Ends up working very well.

Brett, If the device that you are powering can take 12v (and is fairly low amperage, i.e. not a power hungry camera) I tend to do all 12v cables out of the sled. I do this because the pro sled is always spitting out 12v out top, but there are situations in which you wouldn't be able to do 24v out at all (having a camera like the F65 that need so much 12v amperage you have to run both batteries in parallel)

I would worry more about the humidity for the metal components. The temp could certainly mess with monitors and things with screens: too cold and the liquid freezes and cracks the screen. I would shy against it. I have an external storage room that I keep my cart and stand in, but that is it.

I have used it quite a bit and have some thoughts: -It is way too light for my tastes, unless you are flying a zoom on it there is practically no pan inertia. I always run batteries with it, and often leave the rods and studio mattebox as well, just for weight out front. My favorite times flying it were with a 19-90 and a 45-120. Those lenses seem to have a good bit of weight out front and adds some much needed mass. - I dislike how the thing mounts. the two screw holes for the "cine" base are too close together and I have gotten vibration before. If you can, get the v-lock plate then use the cinematic precision or similar plates to tie down the front and back of the camera. You still get 15mm lightweight rods in the front to mount motors off of, but you reduce overall height and make the mount more ridged. -The 4K recorder is very light and nothing to worry about save for what Victor says with battery runtimes. -The start stop connector is a 4 pin hirose. There is also power out of this and I have seen a couple of guys have a combo cable built for the preston, but I wouldn't trust the output for anything that could draw more than 1.5-2 amps. There is only one power output on the body (I think the recorder may add one?). Having something like a d-tap splitter can be a life-saver at times.

If you have a controller, I have a betz box that allows you to use a fuji controller with a digital motor for zoom or focus. Let me know if you want to play with it or try it. I am not using it as of now. Shoot me a text.

Aaron, There are two models: an older one that uses its own digital motor controller (http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=20644) and the new one that preston sells that uses the MDR3's analog input port. The new one is not compatible with the MDR2 or 1.

I got the full quattro system about a month and a half ago and love it. I came from the cinetronic bracket. I have had no vibrations from the new bracket (though my old one isn't that bad either) but the cam jam one is much easier to adjust and holds better. In addition to being rock solid.

Are the XCS 15mm rod holes 60mm center to center?

looking for just the collar or the whole docking bracket? I recently updated to the GAD 2 system, so I have the full thing. I have been just keeping it, but I could probably get rid of it. It is just sitting around my apartment.

Is the fork locking? i.e. a gorelock? or is it just to rest?

It depends on the age of the MDR-1. Some of the 900Mhz versions had external 12-24v upconverter boxes. Microwave versions had the voltage converter built into the microwave transceiver. (well, the board right next to it, but still in the upper tray) The pin out on the power connector on the MDR-1 microwave version is the same as the MDR-2

Title says it all. I'd like to purchase these. I am on the waiting list from Preston but would love to find them used sooner. Thanks!

the title says it all. I'm looking for a Cinetape interface cable for an MDR2.

Copy that!

Ive had a bit of an issue with my Gen 1 analog input through the 8 pin lemo. I put the composite through the post to the bnc connector and attached it directly to the composite BNC in and got an image. Just a thought.

Jens is saying that Heden doesn't make analog motors anymore. I think the only people making new ones is Loonworks with the M-One...

I know it is a long shot, but I am looking for what the title suggests. G4 blue dot is preferred.

I am also interested. Does it interface directly to a preston motor/internal lens motor or do you need the other box?

I have a 1.5" post from MK-V with a similar ring. I use a rubber oil filter wrench to tighten it. Works really well and wont mar the metal. similar to this one: http://www.amazon.com/BOA-BO13010-Constrictor-Aluminum-Wrench/dp/B0011E4QU4 (mine is cheap plastic though; still works!)

The pro 2 junction box actually fits over the piece that goes from the post collar to the donkey box screws. It is secured to the junction box via two small phillips head screws inside the junction box. That is the only thing I can think of. Of course make sure your 4 long lead screws are tight as well.

I agree with Eric. When I first started I got a ridiculously cheap bad rig. I modified the hell out of it and it ended up being a great starter rig that I soon outgrew. But it got me in the vest and practicing. It is all about payoff for me. Is the amount of money you are going to spend going to worth the use of the rig to you (i.e. practice and learn and fly on friends projects for the time being) or is it going to need to be reliable and good and make you money on jobs. Then Rob's advice is spot on. Don't buy a small rig that will limit you. if you can't afford a good used rig I suggest getting an old glidecam V-16 or similar from somewhere (many places are just giving them away basiclly). modify it and get a camera that you can fly around your house. And keep saving. once you start spending it just keeps happening.....