Jarrett P. Morgan

Give Jack a call tomorrow. I am sure he will help figure out the issue. Sounds like that handle is stripped out on one side though. could be as simple as replacing it.

I know this is a long shot, but my DB2 broke and pro has a bit of a wait time. If someone has a DB3 they would like to sell, let me know!

The rod ends are the pieces in the arm that allow for side to side adjustment on the front mounted vest. Accessed via an allen key into the socket block. The WK vest (and all back mounted vests that I know of) change the forces on the socket block by 90 degrees, thus putting forces onto the rod ends that they were not particularly designed to take.

I am looking for a backup monitor soon. I am certainly keeping an eye out on this one!

Are you willing to split the TB6 out? I have been toying with getting one as a backup/film job monitor.

Excellent write up; I can imagine that being an incredible experience!

I have played with it a couple of times. I am not a huge fan. it isn't very much of an upgrade from a digital bartech in my mind. The biggest thing is the 12v vs 24v performance. Just like the digital bartech, if you give it 12v the motor only spins at half the speed as 24v. I would want an internal 12-24v upconverter like the preston. based on an older post here I built an upconverter for my backup digital bartech and it works great. When I first got my heden M26VE with the digital bartech I thought it was super slow, but it was just the 12v source. Just a thought!

This is an awesome topic idea and I look forward to hearing what all you folks have to say about it. I have had a couple of eureka moments, but the most recent of which was after a bit of an email conversation with Larry. Just hearing his take on things and me applying those to how I operate gave me a bit of an "oh! of course I should do this" moment. Really a nice moment to have!!

What is the operator's height that the vest is built for?

I got my old EFP (same design as a 3A but different spring weights) refurbed by Robert Luna last summer. I think it came into the 1350~ range with some upgrades (delrin spacers as dust covers for the bearings and some other miscellaneous parts. Robert Luna is certainly the guy to do it. The arm came back looking brand new, and flew so much nicer. I didn't realize what I had been missing. Of course then I bought a pro arm and REALLY realized what I had been missing....

wow.... I would love to hear about it as well!

The floors aren't particularly slick unless there is water involved. Your shoes (which are the same ones I wear) should be fine. I think a rickshaw would work wonderfully. Another thought, and I hesitate to even suggest it, is to get someone who is very good on skates (I have done this as I played hockey for about 8 years) to follow on a ronin or movi. You can get some very cool stuff that is difficult on steadi (unless you have a grip pushing you really fast on a ricksaw) My last thought is this: I have used a dolly on a skating rink as well, the floor is almost as good as dancefloor if not as good. Very suitable to do complex moves on dolly.

That is an emergency release. If it is set up properly the operator can "eject" from the rig. It is a safety feature when working near water or other dangerous environments. I believe only some Tiffen vests have them. I know the pro and WK do not.

I do not believe so. I am using one on a show I am on right now and we still flip monitors.

take off the top stage and make sure it is seated flush on the post? I have seen a topstage like that on a MK-V carbon fiber post that didn't sit quite right. It didn't have play, but it wasn't level. Perhaps the two pieces have a bit of a gap in them? The other thought I have is perhaps the screws are a bit too long. If they bottom out they will feel tight, but won't be able to tighten down enough to hold the top stage on.

I think it is a wonderful idea! I am looking to buy a 2000 in the near future and this would be a wonderful addition to the kit.

He just did. Glad to help out! I miss playing with it while I am back out here....

I have a worral that is currently sitting in my apartment in LA while I am here in GA on a show. He is welcome to play with it if he wants. I can arrange him picking it up from my roommate as long as he is willing to carry it down the stairs!

You will have to actually change the wiring. 24V uses two 12v batteries in series to provide the 24v. You can wire up a double pole, double throw switch up to switch between the two. That is how the pro sleds switch between the two.

If you end up being able to sell the G4 board only I will buy it.

That is the FIZ1 with the 900 MHZ wireless. The one listed here is the 1st Gen microwave wireless (2.4 Ghz). It was an upgrade for the 900 MHZ one, but still a HU1 and a MDR1.

Just for the record, this is a FIZ 1, not a FIZ II.

Ian, There were several improvements over the years on the HU1s I believe. the eariler ones did not have the LED bargraph, nor the zoom set/reset switch. At the same time there were some HU2s that were "dumbed down" to work with the MDR1s when they first came out. But generally HU2s only talk to G3 wireless MDR2s and HU1s only talk to mircowave-capable MDR1s. So this may be one of those "dumb-downed" HU2s, or it could be a late gen HU1.