Jarrett P. Morgan

Beau, Sorry to see you have to sell all of the stuff. It looks like a nice set-up! Best of luck with the sale!

I love the 416. One of the best cameras I have worked with. It has the FIZ integrated as long as you use the Arri handset and motors. I believe when I flew it I used an onboard battery just for the added weight. It isn't a very heavy camera, especially on primes. I am sure Ron can come in with the exact weight of a set-up. I am pretty sure they make a low-mode bracket for the camera. Maybe see if you can get it included in the package from the rental house? I just tweaked the side to side adjustment in between takes; the mags are coaxial, so there shouldn't be any fore-aft shift as the film runs. Plus it is 16mm, so the weight displacement is lower than 35mm (or 65/IMAX).

Joe, Sorry I wasn't able to help you out! I am glad Marc was able to; they are great over at PLC

perhaps english stix?

Talk to Jess Haas. He drilled a hole in my gimbal handle for me a couple of months ago and did a perfect job.

Alan, That is correct. I owned one for awhile and the motor cables were just power and serial, 4 pins. Originally they were supposed to have a dongle to convert to the 7 pin standard, but they haven't done it yet.

The part on the sled there is a diode to prevent cross-charging. It looks like the pin on the diode snapped off. You should find another one of the same type (probably a Schottky diode) and replace it. Shouldn't be more than 2 bucks.

I will take pictures when I get back to LA on the 1st if you still need them.

Michael, the connector is a FGG.3B.856.CLADXX (where XX is the cable size). But it is not a connector you can do yourself. The coax portions of it are crimp and you need a special tool (as far as I know). I will post some pictures of it when I get back into town after the holidays. That all being said, I really enjoyed doing the work on my rig to upgrade it to HD. It works and I now know my rig even better. To be fair though, it is a bit of a frankenrig.

Unless the 3B 308 has enough room in the middle to fit the rpsma connector through it if drilled out.... That may work.

Ah, yes. I am actually not very familiar with the Pro bayonet connectors unfortunately. My top stage uses a 2B 307 connector rather than the 3B 308 connector of the pro. It is smaller and lets me get around the connector. I think the only way to do that with the newer style is to switch them out to be the 3B 856 style. The issue with drilling out the video conductor is then I think you couldn't take it apart without completely disassembling the HD line.

Well, I have a MKV upper junction box, so it is slightly different in mechanics than the pro 1 or 2. I think the pro 1 rig would be easiest to do at the top since it is hard-wired in. There needed to be a hole in the upper junction box to allow the cable to pass through (and the RP-SMA connector so I can take the rig apart) and the bottom needed to be dremeled out a bit to allow the cable to pass as well. I can take some pictures and post them if you'd like (though my rig is a bit of a frankenrig, so I don't know how much you can glean from them) I ran the mini-coax around the connector on both the top and bottom. I just heat-shrinked the mini-coax to the outside of the coiled cable the whole way up the post. I think normal sized coax would be too big to fit in the post. Unless you have a 2" post maybe. The cable I used wasn't perfect though. If I did it again I would go with Belden 179DT I think. It is what Alan Rencher uses for some of his mini-BNCs I bought and I really like it for size and flexibility

As far as I know it is not. I believe there are issues with impedance and shielding in the SD wiring (that are perfectly fine for a composite signal) that will not allow it to work with HD. That being said, I have not tried it myself. I did do an HD upgrade, but ran an independent mini-coax down the barrel, connected with RP-SMA connectors. It did require a bit of mechanical modification to make the cable fit through the joints in the rig, but was fairly small and did not harm the integrity of the rig. What rig do you own?

Thanks Ramon!

The RTmotion receiver is smaller than the BFD. Not by a ton, but WAY smaller when you realize it does FIZ.

Tommy, I have actually all but stopped. I have, thankfully, been working enough that I can't make cables with the expediency needed. That being said, if someone is local and needs something quickly because of an issue, if I am off I would be happy to help!

Is it a digital motor or an analog? either way, I would suggest trying a new motor cable. And setting aside the old one until someone with a mulitmeter looks at it. You don't want to really damage something...

Hey all, I am looking to rent or buy a radio microforce G3 for a job at the end of this week. Anyone know where to get one? Thanks!

The place I usually get my Fischer connectors from has a two-four week backorder on the collets for the Arri power cable. I just need two of them. Anyone have an additional source? Thanks!

Just so everyone knows, this is still (thankfully) active. I just ordered a print to hang in my new place. Thanks for that work awhile ago Charles!

I would like to buy the Pana one. my number is 310.948.9030

The width very well could be a problem. I will try and grab one from a rental house to try it on a show before I buy one. The HCXs or dionic 160s make more sense. Thanks for the tip! I hope things are going well, it has been awhile!

I had a job recently that I was wanting for more bottom weight so I wouldn't have to extend my post quite as far (an issue I have run into a couple of time since switching from the green screen to the cinetronic). I only have 90 wh batteries. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with flying a shark fin on the bottom stage and doubling up batteries rather than flying a bigger battery? It may be a terrible idea though. But an idea nonetheless.

Agreed! Just ordered one. I can imagine it coming in very handy at times!

SOLD!