Jarrett P. Morgan

The thing that would scare me is if brushless gimbal technology keeps moving forward at the rate it is currently going and the wheels loosing their compatibility with the newest and best ones. (granted, given the way they communicate I don't forsee that being an issue, but still) That all being said, the ability to use wheels to control one of the brushless gimbals makes it orders better in terms of usability.

Agreed. I like the Arri stuff, but it looks to be fairly more expensive. What about the wait times? I know Preston has quite the backorder log right now.

Pictures attached.

I just upgraded to a pro arm, so my old arm needs to go to a new owner. I have had this arm for about 2.5 years and it has been fantastic. It was just serviced by Robert Luna over this past summer and was given an A+ rating. I have flown just about every camera out there on this arm (the largest being an Alexa with the Panavision 19-90 zoom with full preston,cinetape, etc). It is a great starter arm, especially a little deeper into the springs. It comes with an arm bag, a 6" post, a 12" post, and some thrust bearings I use with it. I will post pictures tomorrow or Thursday. I am asking $4250 OBO If you have any questions, please send me a PM, or feel free to email me/call/text me: jpmsteadi(at)gmail.com 310.948.9030

Brian, I do the same so I know I can also provide them power. I think MDR1 cables are more likely to be made 24v as some of them existed before the voltage upconverter (and without the microwave transceiver)

Another thought for you: It is possible that the cable that Terry made you is a 24V cable and that the sled is in 12v mode. That could explain how you can get no power, but everything still test good. Just a thought.

The composite out and the HDMI output still work?

Jens, Thanks for the glowing recommendation! Brett, If you have a multi-meter, I would take a meter the cable to see how it is wired. Most of the 4 pin lemos that are on rigs (old pro, cinelive, glidecam gold, MKV, and I am sure more) are wired so that: 1) GND 2) +12v 3,4 do the other functions (generally video, but sometimes also tally. If it is tally generally only pin 3 is used.) So that all being said, I would be fairly confident that it would work, but I would definitely check it with a meter first.

Of course!

Unfortunately not. The analog motors are either position-sensing (denoted by a "P" in the name for Heden motors) or speed/direction sensing (denoted by a "T") The mircoforce works off of the latter of the two types, getting information back from the tachometer in the motor to determine how fast and in what direction the motor is turning.

The V+F is used with analog motors only. The digital microforce uses the digital motors. both can talk to the HU (though certain original V+F are set up for "film only" work and can't communicate with video lenses or the HU) The horizontal motor you are thinking of is the Heden: http://www.abelcine.com/store/Heden-M26T-Motor/ You can also get cables to use directly with lenses that have built in zoom motors (like the Fujinon and Canon 2/3" lenses)

Wonderful to hear all these stories! I will add my own (relatively new) story when I get to a computer. Please keep them coming!

Sold! Thanks.

Up for sale is my RTMotion. I just got it back from being completely serviced and overhauled. Newest firmware, motors just check, etc. I have owned it since it was very new and been through some of the growing pains. It is now quite a good system (I place it pretty squarely between the bartech and the preston). I upgraded to a preston and trying to fund a new arm, hence it is time to say goodbye. The sale includes: Handunit (newest 3.1 wireless, two channel) Brain (3.1 wireless) Two motors (3.0 version) Two film-stuff motor brackets (these add quite a bit of versatility to mounting the motors) Two LP-e6 batteries (each one lasts 2-3 days of normal use) Two place battery charger (somehow I have lost the AC power for this. I will try and find it if I can) Brain mounting bracket 4 motor cables (two of the super-thin ones) 1 4pin xlr power 2 dtap power (only one in the pictures) I can also include any sled power cable for you if you want (I currently have a cinelive power cable for it) Uploading pictures from my phone isn't working well, but I can email pictures. And I will post them when I get a chance. Buying new this would be $7500+ with quite a lead time. I am asking $5000 all in. Please either Pm me here, or feel free to email/call/text Thanks, Jarrett 310.948.9030 jpmsteadi@gmail.com

Zoltan is correct and in addition, I was writing about the 3.0 motors, not the 3.1 motors. I believe they have a slightly better turning handle that is less painful to tighten down than the old one. The jerry hill mount (and if you do buy them I suggest going through jerry hill and not film-stuff) do add a good bit of flexibility though. I can undersling and mount motors quite close together. The motors themselves are quite good. I am using a preston on my current show and the motors seem to have about the speed of the DM2, just not quite as much torque. And obvious the preston motors win on build quality.

I own a BPA-1, but I have seen guys just use long 3/16 screws to secure it straight to the Alexa body. I haven't played with that option myself yet.

I have not used it on the betz top stage, so I can't comment on that, but to the other questions: Yes, it will work with broadcast cameras. I am using it also with a F55 that has the VCT-14 style mount on it. It also has the holes tapped on the front for the iris rods to attach. I don't think it has any of the stops as it has the machined out part on the side for the pro set-screw. I bought mine from Jerry Hill

If it is just for 5 days and not that much stuff surely an operator on here will let you house it at their place? for example, if that is alright with you I don't mind throwing them in my living room for a couple of days to help you out.

That is impressive.... Lets have someone package that with a transmitter/receiver pair. For awhile I was playing around with a consumer HDMI transmitter that encoded to H2.64. It was only about 20ms delay. Pretty transparent actually. I think it is doable, the big thing is it either has to be cheaper or farther (or both) than current zero latency transmission systems to make it a viable product (in my mind). That is assuming proper design to be used on set.

Are you interested in in separating out the base with the lower junction box from all the rest of the items? I am interested in it for spare parts and mods. Thanks! Jarrett

I was blown away when I first saw the DM1x as well. And it was put right away on the "to buy" list.

To add to what Ron says: the omnishot works perfectly with the HU2, but I have several folks that use the HU1 that have tried the omnishot with little to no success.

Rick's findings were consistant with mine. Great range and signal, but the delay (especially through qtake, which adds its own delay depending on how it is processed) is too much to be used as a daily transmitter.

The MD-HX, for 295 is an amazing little piece of gear. I can imagine that being a great day-saver in several situations. I may have to pick one up.

The screws on the from the of the camera that are around the PL mount actually hold the mount onto the body (how you change from one mount to another) I have had them be a touch loose before and that caused vibrations. If your vibrations got better with supporting the lens some, then I would say to try and get a solid support (not a foam one) that locks the lens off to the iris rods. That way there will be zero vibration from that.