Lisa Sene

Hi Nick, Thank you! Diversified perspectives are what makes this community strong. Great that you've taken a workshop and already have an arm and vest you're happy with. You'll have plenty of good options for a used sled for $15K - keep an eye on the forum and Facebook groups, and try to check out the sled in person before you buy it, especially if it's a brand or model you haven't used before. Good luck! Lisa

Hi Nick, I'm not a "fella" (your language matters - please consider your audience), though I suggest finding a solid used system from a reputable seller within your price range. Also consider accessories: batteries, cables, a stand and/or cart, cases/bags and some way to organize everything in them; those expenses quickly add up. Have you taken a workshop? That's a great way to get your hands on different rigs (the SOA workshop in particular has a wide variety of gear lately), and network with other operators who may be selling rigs. Personally, I was glad I invested in a workshop before a rig, because it allowed me to try several types of vests, and ultimately my first sled. The connections I made there have been invaluable, and have helped me in some way on every job I've had since. Lisa

Hi William, Welcome! When you say operator, do you mean camera operator, or Steadicam operator only? You'd be selling yourself short to only focus on Steadicam if you want to be a camera operator; Steadicam is a phenomenal instrument, and incredibly useful - when it's the right tool for the job. Some shots are better achieved (or more safely achieved) another way. It's part of your job as an operator to decide how to get the shot. To answer your question - I think it depends on your market, and what types of jobs you're seeking, both as a DP and as an operator. I've seen people successfully do both in smaller markets, though I do think it's more difficult to do both in a larger sphere on larger jobs. In the union world, DP and operator are two separate jobs, and once you change your card you can't do the other job on a union show (with some exceptions). It seems there's more fluidity between operating and DPing from a hiring standpoint, so you may not encounter the same marketing struggle people face when moving from ACing to operating. Good luck! Lisa

Hi Sam, I haven't used any type of rig with a Movi or Ronin on a job, only in demos or at trade shows. Out of the Steadimate, EasyRig, and Anti-Gravity rig, I liked the Steadimate the most. Paired with an Exovest that's tuned to rotate a little more than normal at the pivot points, it was the best at eliminating footsteps. It was also the most comfortable for me, probably because I'm already used to the Exovest and personally find that's the most comfortable and logical style of vest for my body. It was slightly more tiring than normal Steadicam since you have to hold the Movi or Ronin farther away from your body than you would a Steadicam sled, simply because it's a larger footprint. I have yet to try the smaller EasyRig (the stock ones are too long for my torso), but always found it was difficult to get rid of footsteps. It was a bit better with the Flowcine Serene arm. Similarly, I was able to see footsteps when I tried the AntiGravity rig, and found it too large and cumbersome overall. However, the boom range on that rig was nice. I was also concerned about maneuvering about practical sets with low ceilings or door frames with that type of rig - not to mention the distraction factor for actors! What have you found so far using the Steadimate? Lisa

Hi Kevin, Height differences are always challenging. Think about what lens you're on, and figure out the distance you need to be from both actors/actresses to maintain your desired composition. Also think about being able to hold them if you're going around corners, and whether or not losing sight of them for a few moments is okay or not - a good conversation to have with DP and/or director. A tight two shot typically isn't very aesthetically pleasing if one head is at the bottom of frame and one is at the top, or your whole frame is dutched to get both, but as with everything else, it depends on the story you're trying to tell. Maybe low mode is a better choice because you see more of the upper wall behind them and notice a picture on the wall that's important to the story that you'd miss in high mode. Experiment and see what feels right to you for what you're trying to convey in the shot. Happy flying! Lisa

Glad it's a simple fix!

Hi Alfeo, I have had a Scout 37 NXT (don't think they make it anymore) for a little over 2 years, and just got a Voyager EVO Scout 37 as a replacement, both with the Steadicam kit. Nothing wrong with the NXT per se, but the Voyager serves my needs better, especially for day-playing when I'm breaking it down/setting it up to get it in and out of my car twice a day. The Voyager is now living on a camera truck on a show as of yesterday, so I haven't fully put it to the test yet. So far the only thing I noticed that disappointed me was that you have to remove the Steadicam mast because one connection point it to the top shelf as there is only one crossbar on each side. The NXT had two on the mast side, and I ended up getting a second one for the other side and switching the side I kept the mast on so I could keep the mast on the cart while it was folded to save time. Not terribly long to take off of the Voyager, but would be nice to not have to do that. Also worth noting, I don't use the sled cushion because the spacing isn't right with my sled and docking bracket, and I don't use the vest hanger because I don't like things other than my body sitting against my Exovest memory foam for long periods of time. Here were my reasons for changing: - Adjustable top shelf height. Became a definite need for travel jobs that had a lot of huge cases - way easier to fit them when the top shelf moves. - No need for a soft bag to add handles to the cart (necessary for lifting in and out of my trunk) - they are built into the cart on the Voyager. Might get one eventually to protect it more if I ever fly with it (which I did twice with the NXT). Also no more putting a soft bag down ( necessary to fully attach the bag onto the cart when doing it alone) on wet/muddy ground or gross streets - yuck. - Tapped holes on the sides of the top shelf for accessories - not sure I see myself using them, but the ACs thought that was a great addition. - Latches to close the cart when folded are on the short sides and don't stick out and get bent when going around tight doorways - a constant struggle with my NXT going in and out of tight doorways and hallways. - Mechanism to drop the sidebars is better on the Voyager - the NXT had buttons that had to fully depress at the same time to collapse and would get stuck often or pinch fingers/break nails. I eventually started using tools, but then depressed them so far they fell into the sidebars. Relatively easy to pop back out, though not something I wanted to deal with packing to leave in the morning or the end of a long day. - The wheels attach via dovetail, which seemed better though so far they are somewhat hard to get on and off - though, it's new, and was also very humid the few times I've done that, so that may be why. - Better wheels locks. Easier to tell if they're locked or unlocked, and therefore less likely to strip over time. - Slightly deeper shelves (I think?) on both the top and bottom. Also: - I have a large Cinebag for accessories, and I attach it to the non-sled side of the cart with two safety chains and some carabiners. Gets you additional cart space, and is a nice counterweight when balancing a heavier sled. - Both do scratch fairly easily. Happy flying!

Hi Isaac, Have you contacted Tiffen? They should be able to best advise how to fix it, and check for other potential issues (let them know how it cracked, a drop or too much weight). I would fix it before flying with it personally - it's going to be a weak point, and the weight of the rig could make it crack further and possibly hurt you. Safe flying!

Hi cyjackx, Please adhere to the rules and use your real name on this forum. You may benefit from a Bronze Workshop, as they will have a few different Tiffen rigs there, and give you the basics of building, balancing, and flying if you have not used a Steadicam before. If you're doing it correctly, you won't be "sacrificing your knees". Which sled, arm, and vest to buy is a decision that is based on many factors: total payload, price range, power needs, accessories, transportability, if you ever plan to upgrade, etc. Lisa

Hi Justin, It depends on your interest level and finances. Bronze is a great way to dip your feet in (especially if you've never had a rig on before) and make sure it's for you before making a larger financial investment in the SOA workshop. You'll have some time in the rig, and learn building and balancing. It's a fantastic foundation upon which to build, either via your own practice, or by taking a larger workshop down the road. If you have your heart set on Steadicam, skip the Bronze and go for the SOA workshop. It doesn't matter if you've never had a rig on before; students of all experience levels are welcome to attend, as there is always room to improve and more to learn. Feel free to PM me with more questions! Lisa

Hi Eric, If you can, go to NAB or Cinegear and check out monitors in person. Cinegear is outside, so you'll have a better chance of seeing how they perform in daylight. Also possible at a rental house - ask them nicely (and maybe bring cookies) if you can check out a few different monitors one day in their parking lot. Personally, I settled on the smallHD 703. It can be blindly reflective when angled directly at the sun, but has otherwise been wonderful for day exterior work. I'm still exploring solutions to solve the reflectivity (custom cut anti-reflective glass being one). Happy flying! Lisa

Hi Sean, As Tom said, it sounds like a workshop would benefit you. Here are a few more options in addition to the one Tom linked: Tiffen Workshops SOA Workshop Another great resource is The Steadicam Operator's Handbook. Though it's a great guide, it can't replace someone with experience making sure your vest is fitting correctly, you're walking correctly, holding the rig correctly, etc. - all of which could be contributing to your footsteps translating to your frame. Happy flying! Lisa

Thanks for the wise words, Janice! The percentages are great to have as a baseline to keep in mind when budgeting. Lisa

Fingers crossed it's an easy fix! Lisa

Hey Pete, You've probably tried this - have you tested with the ride knob adjusted differently? Does the movement change at all? Hard to see where it was set from the angle in the video, though if it's a heavier load, you'll likely need more visible threads (i.e. more iso). Is it doing it only on the top section of the arm, or the bottom as well? Lisa

New York Operators - Metro Camera Cars is doing demos of their E-Trike over the next two weekends. See the Facebook event here with dates and times, and to RSVP. From the event page: "The E-Trike for Steadicam and Gimbal Ops will be rigged and ready for demo runs. No gear needed, we'll have everything setup for you to get acquainted and do a few test runs.We'll do a simulated scene, leading talent through the hallway and into Lightbulb Grip & Electric. We can reset and practice the run with stepping off and stepping on if folks are interested.It's a loose format, conversation, test runs and talking shop.During and After the event we can take the rest of the folks waiting to ride outside to checkout the Camera Car and talk shop.Days/TimesSunday Feb 17th- Steadicam Day - 1pm-4pmSaturday Feb 23th- Gimbal Day - 1pm-4pmSunday Feb 24th- Steadicam Day - 1pm-4pmAddress1027 Grand Street, Unit #133, Brooklyn NY, 11211Times may change slightly but this seems good for most people thus far. Please let me know who you're bringing if you're inviting another Op to the demo. We don't want it getting overcrowded and diminish the test times for individuals." Lisa

Hi Cedric, As for feeling as though you are losing your balance on stairs, does that happen when walking backwards or in Don Juan, or both? You may benefit from seeking out a good physical therapist who understands the industry a bit and/or can understand how you are using your body while operating. He or she can then help you train your vestibular system (inner ear balance) to achieve better balance in general, and while operating. If you're anywhere near New York, there is a fantastic PT who used to be an AC, Liz Cash, who I started working with recently. We've just started to do specific vestibular work with my rig during workouts, which has made me realize things about my stance, balance, and footwear that I wasn't previously aware of. In addition to vestibular work, she also focuses on evening out strength and mobility across your body (important for Steadicam and handheld, since we generally use half of the body for those tasks more so than the other), and ensuring you have full range of motion in all parts of your body where you should (and how to get it back if you've lost it). She takes a measured and intellectual approach to PT, overall fitness, and nutrition, and I cannot recommend her enough! Happy flying! Lisa

Thanks Chris! You're welcome, Kevin!

Hi Kevin, You'll need the smaller socket block to use your A30 arm on an Exovest. There is a smaller version of the Exovest, the Exolite, though you're better off getting the regular Exovest. It will be future-proof if you upgrade your sled and arm, and you'll never have to worry about stressing the parts under heavier loads. That said, make sure you try it first and have someone fit it to you if you aren't familiar with the Exovest. The fit is very specific, and it can be uncomfortable if it's not sitting on your body correctly. You'll also walk a bit differently than you do in a traditional-style vest, as you must let your pelvic bones rise and fall (as they do naturally when you walk without a rig). In a traditional-style vest, you work to hold your pelvis level so your footsteps don't translate to the sled. There are pivot points in the Exovest that compensate for the rise and fall of your pelvic bones, allowing you to walk more normally. The Exovest is also much more unforgiving if you are not standing up straight because of those same pivot points. Not a bad thing in my opinion, as you should be in good form anyway! Happy flying! Lisa

Hi Sawyer, As Tom said, it looks like your gimbal likely needs to be re-centered. It would be best to send the sled to the factory for them to do a full checkup, as it may be the gimbal, or something else, or a combination of a few things. Lisa

Hi Kevin, I'll echo Chris in that the Zephyr vest is very capable, though a word of caution - do make sure you're not extending the capacity of the vest. I witnessed the plastic waistband on a lighter-weight vest snap at a workshop under a heavy load (M-1, G-70x arm, at least 25lb camera payload). Not only is that unfortunate because it's a broken vest, but, more concernedly, it could also hurt your body due to the sudden, unexpected shift in weight distribution across your body. Be safe! Lisa

Hi Cedric, I typically stay in Missionary whenever possible because I feel I have more control over my frame than in Don Juan, though it does depend on the speed and complexity of the move, if stairs are involved, and how comfortable I am with my spotter. If it's a very fast move with lots of obstacles, and if I'm unsure of my spotter's ability to guide me and catch me if I do trip, then I'll do Don Juan so I have a better chance of navigating myself. It's a good idea to talk with your spotter and explain to him or her what your preferences are in spotting - where to hold your vest, if you prefer to be pulled or poked for navigation, and how to catch you if you do trip. I usually do a trust fall of sorts with new spotters to show them how much weight they will have to support if I do fall. Most are surprised at how much heavier I am with a rig on, which tells me they probably would not have been prepared to hold that much weight in the event of a fall before my showing them, and I likely would have taken them down with me. Happy flying! Lisa

Hi Kit, There are a lot of factors in deciding on an upgrade. As it seems you already have, think about the typical build you'll be using for your market. Can the new system handle the total payload, as well as power needs? If you put a Ronin on your Solo arm with that camera setup, make sure the arm payload can take the full weight of the camera build and the Ronin. Make sure you have mounting options for your accessories, and a monitoring solution. Also think about the differences in movement in Steadicam and Ronin; they are both very different tools. Which one serves the needs of your clientele the most? Happy flying! Lisa

Hi Jared, I've been well, I hope you're well too! Check out this site, which a great key grip just told me about recently: www.fallprotectionpros.com. They have harnesses and lanyards and fall limiters that are all rated correctly in terms of what we'd be looking for. I've been meaning to reach out to them to learn more but haven't had a chance yet. At the very least, you want one of the lanyards that has the crinkled up part (for lack of better terminology) which will give a little slack in the event that the line comes into use. My key grip friend pointed out that if you have a line with no crinkle, you could end up breaking a bone due to the shock of the line with absolutely no give in it. Again, I would talk to a rep at that site before buying anything as they can best advise and explain. Lisa

Hey Jared! The WK vehicle mount is very well made and great for versatility since it has both a Mitchell mount and speed rail mount option. As far as a harness and safety gear, I use this full-body climbing harness, and typically wear it backwards so I can be clipped in on my back. I also have this climbing harness, though I have never used it on a job since I always feel safer in the full-body version; I want my full torso secured rather than my bottom half only. I'm usually clipped in via thick webbing and and a strong carabiner clip meant for climbing. I carry several length loops and thicknesses of webbing in my kit, and lots of carabiners. I also wear hard side skateboarding knee pads and a helmet (I use one from horseback riding, since the potential fall height and general speed is about the same - if we're going faster than a horse, I probably don't want to be doing that shot!). In addition to protection from falls, knee pads and helmets are also useful if your knees/head are near speed rail, knobs, or any other hard object that you could whack into while in motion. Make sure you have something soft to wrap around a pole if you're leaning against it (like an India mount or speed rail), and a place for your feet. I carry a spool of thick webbing (easy to find at REI or marine supply store) that can be cut and tied off to use as stirrups in a pinch. It's also good to have some vectran (check a marine supply store) for a very strong but thin rope to tie off the arm to keep it from bottoming out or extending past its intended reach - also useful to keep it secure before the sled goes on. Finally, make sure you have a method of clear communication between you and the driver so you can communicate immediately if you need to stop in an emergency. Happy (and safe) flying! Lisa