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RobinThwaites

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Everything posted by RobinThwaites

  1. Actually the Aero 30 camera payload limit is 9kg, the arm load is 30lbs (which is why it is called an A-30) which equates to 13.63kg. The Aero 15 will carry a 4.5kg camera but remember that the arm is shorter giving you less vertical travel.
  2. The Mini was similar to the early Flyer but only had the gimbal fork attached to the sled with the tilt part in the end of the arm. the arm was a very simple thing that looked like an angle-poise lamp with one moving section. The grey arm was an early Flyer arm. yes it could have been a crossover around the time of the change from CP to Tiffen, the other anomolies all sound like previous owners mods.
  3. Hi Taylor If you are in the US please contact the Tiffen factory again and ask for part number 078-7296-01which definitely matches the drawing I have for the Flyer vest. Robin
  4. Hi Simone Max camera weight for the Aero 15 is 4.5kg or around 9lb. Sled is around 6lb. Robin
  5. Hi David There are 4 or 5 different types of bearing in the A-30, which one do you need to replace? Best to email me at robin.thwaites@tiffen.com.
  6. Hi Sam Did you check with LEMAC? Send me an e-mail robin.thwaites@tiffen.com. I am UK based Robin
  7. Hi Jeremy You need the 800-7350-01 for V-lock or 800-7350-02 for Gold mount. Should be able to get it through Kingsway. This is the thicker version that has the flying lead to connect the sled plus 2 of the large power Lemos for accessories.
  8. Thanks for the FlySteadicam mention Jerry. The test we made with the Imax was with a Volt on an Ultra 2 and the Volt was able to negate approximately 80% of the side to side offset caused by the film transfer. So that meant that the sled could be balanced so that the operator needed a little bit of side hand pressure at the beginning of the mag and a little bit at the end with the Volt doing all the compensation for the most part.
  9. Getting a dedicated low mode plate from the camera rental company will gain you a couple of inches maybe and be more rigid than a handle clamp. Also a third battery mount would help. Then as Jerry says balance for normal drop time with the camera down.
  10. Hi Raphael, send me an e-mail robin.thwaites@tiffen.com. Robin
  11. Hi Regis You CAN use a G-50 arm but as Louis says you will need a large socket block for your vest. The G-50 is available with the 1/2" arm post that will fit. My concern is that by knowingly overloading the sled you may do damage to some other component like the gimbal, gimbal yoke or stage to post junction. Also you will need to make the post very long top balance that load meaning that you could see vibration. Robin
  12. Hi Sander This is something that can happen with a Master stage and usually a lighter camera in low mode. Best option is to get the stage serviced, from my days at Optex with these we used to say every year. As an emergency fix try jamming wedges between the dovetail plate and the nosebox or top of the stage. Cinema Products used to make little screw in clamps to overcome the problem. Also make sure you clamp the dovetail down really hard when the fled is upright (so the camera weight is acting downwards). Robin
  13. Hi Sawyer Your first test tells me that something is moving. It only needs to be a tiny amount, battery mount, stage, monitor, even seen post to base joint flex. At that drop time you may even see the effect of the cable slopping a little in the post. Best Robin
  14. Hi Sawyer First of all we find that 90% of the time we see balance issues they are something other than the gimbal ie something moving. Yours does sound like the stage F/A adjustment moving, have a look at page 8.3 of the M-1 manual as this explains how to take slack out of the trims (they should be similar but the F/A located on the back). If you over-tighten the adjuster it may make the adjusting knob difficult to turn. Also, grab the yoke and see if there is any slack in the side bearings, vertical slack won't really matter but any clicks may be a tell tale sign that something is wrong. I am located in the UK so not much use to physically look at the sled but feel free to mail me on robin.thwaites@tiffen.com. Robin
  15. Hi Ross Where are you? We have stock in the UK. Robin
  16. Send me an e-mail on robin.thwaites@tiffen.com and I will get back to you. Robin
  17. Hi Felix The bearing should be available, the problem would be if the clamp mechanism is damaged. Robin
  18. Currently under investigation, sorry can't put a time on it at the moment as it is quite different from fitting to an M-1. Robin
  19. Yes it is currently available for sale, price is $6,500.00 ex-factory. Plenty already delivered.
  20. Hi Jonathan Where are you? Generally vibration is FAR more likely to come from something in the sled or camera build than the arm or even gimbal. How long is the post extended? You can help by adding weights to the lower sled and shortening the extension. If the stage firmly fixed? There are screws around the post under the stage and they have been known to work loose. V-lock battery mounts can move, that doesn't help. Before you send it anywhere build the sled with your typical camera setup and go over it thoroughly tapping and shaking all the individual components including any camera plates. Feel free to e-mail me at robin.thwaites@tiffen.com. Robin
  21. SILVER STEADICAM WORKSHOP, NEW ZEALAND, 16th-18th OCTOBER. This is a great opportunity for anyone in the region to get onto a Steadicam workshop. Lead instructor is Rebecca Wilson-Jennings (Bex), one of the hardest working operators that I know ably assisted by Wan Zhong Wei from Singapore. Location is Avalon Studios. Details are at http://flysteadicam.tiffen.com/steadicam-silver-workshop-in-nz-2017/ , don't leave it too long as several places are already taken.
  22. Hi Paul I would just like to pick a couple of things out of this thread. Firstly, the A-30 arm is exactly that, rated to 30lbs and not above, that includes camera, sled batteries, anything that sits on the arm post. As the Alexa has become more freely available since the Mini is more vogue we have recently seen quite a few Zephyr and A-30 arms damaged from overloading. Secondly I would not recommend using the arm tension for headroom. The arm works best in it's sweet spot and anything different will change the performance. Third, as a goofy, your grip on the gimbal handle can be quite firm (but still keep your gimbal hand (right for you) light. However, it should not be working hard to position the rig or compensate for the fact that the socket block is not right. As you have discovered, major position is from correct posture. Finally you don't need to spin the sled that fast for dynamic balance - you are unlikely to pan the camera that fast. In fact spinning it fast can hide inaccuracies. Keep an eye on FlySteadicam.com for workshops, even if you have to travel you will find it a worthwhile experience! Robin
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