Sam Bennett

The solution: Add two small wooden wedges, cut to size, and wedged in between the upper (monitor) and lower (battery) rods. I found a tendency on the Zephyr for those monitor and battery rods to bounce up and down, causing vibrations. As Maxwel alluded to, the vibrations can travel up the post and to the camera. The wedges when placed where the yellow arrows are, eliminated my vibration problems 90% of the time. The other 10% was usually from something slightly loose on the camera (the worst was always bulky rod-mounted matte boxes). Also, if using V-Mount batteries, try adding small amount of soft-side velcro to the battery plate to close any wobbly gaps. (You can also try adding tension to your post like a jib using lightweight non-stretch Vectran string). Add wedges where the yellow arrows are in the picture.

Hi Christopher, I'm very interested in buying this from you. Is it still available?

Hi folks, I have a bent rod end eye bolt from a Zephyr Arm. Any ideas on which part will suit to replace it. Been looking around here on McMaster Carr but I'm not sure which one will fit. https://www.mcmaster.com/eyebolts I've been told by Tiffen that the part number is 601-7230. But it's taken them over 2 months to get back to me on just that info and I'm keen to get this fixed up faster than at Tiffen's pace! Photo of the damaged rod end/eyebolt. Sam.

The best advice I can give is to seek out a local operator in your area and ask if they’ll show you some of their gear and maybe try it on. Steadicam operators are pretty friendly people. I would highly recommend doing this before buying a rig and if there aren’t any workshops happening soon. At least wear one before you buy one to make sure you love it in person as much as you do on paper! Good luck

Hi Russell, just jumping in on this thread. I'm also a tall op looking at modifying an LX vest so the centre spar would let me slide the bridge plate down. Any idea if this was an easy mod?

The Zephyr is a great rig for getting going and it's very versatile. Have you had a chance to do any operating in other rigs so far or is this your first time? The price seems maybe a tiny bit expensive but if it comes with batteries, a GPI Pro Vest, and it's barely used then it could still be a great deal. I've had a Zephyr for a while and only just now outgrowing it. Another option for your consideration could be a Flyer LE - another very capable rig for what it is. Good luck I would not go. toward your 3rd option if you can avoid it.

Well, it happened to me on set yesterday with my zephyr. The build was on the heavy side for the zephyr but not over the limit and the arm was coping fine also. The bolt snapped (but in a different place... between the blue collar and that black piece you're holding in your photo.) I felt the same sensation you described, a slight resistance in tilt - and the drop time went very funny as I stood there wearing it trying to work out what was off... "did someone change a battery, add a filter, change a lens without my knowing?" crash. I managed to catch the rig and nothing else was damaged. I called a local operator - Louis Puli - who generously rushed to set on his day off and saved the day with his pro rig. If you own a zephyr and feel any strange sensations in the tilt and strange bottom heaviness, hold onto the sled!

Jeez! What did you replace it with. What sort of bolt? Thinking I should buy a spare bolt incase this ever happens on set!

I think it's a shame there's so few discussions in the 'Aesthetics' threads here when that's kinda the whole point of what we do, right?! I'm just hoping to leave this space open for discussion on the aesthetics of 1917. From a story and technical point of view, I found this film to be absolutely phenomenal and virtually flawless. But in talking about the look of the movie, I thought it was so beautiful and no doubt thanks to Deakins' incredible talent but of course the operators who made these frames. I was blown away and again watching the movie. A few highlights were that plane crash 'shot' and the 'shot' following George MacKay's character down the river when he begins to go under and then the slow, slow approach to fallen tree with the dozens of bodies slowly revealing themselves - eerie to say the least. I, and maybe you were too, was concerned this film as a oner would feel a bit gimmicky, but I think the lack of 'editing' and the ability to place the audience in real time with the characters was perfect. Every key piece of information was revealed to the camera at just the right time, forcing our reactions to sync up perfectly with the characters. Think - the rat and the trip wire. There is no insert shot of the rat approaching the wire to build suspense and give a wink to the audience, we see the rat at the exact moment the characters do, and only have that half second to react - just like them. Similarly, there isn't any big moments where the audience watches a character's face as they look out at something or learn new information about what's in front of them without us seeing it at the same time too. I suppose the aesthetics of this film are woven so masterfully with TIMING and for me, that's really what brought it all together. I would love to have a conversation about all things 1917 that doesn't get too technical as I see a lot of those discussions happening already! Sam.

SOLVED: So it turns out I just had to give it a bit more force which I was hesitant to do at the start. Pressing inwards on the plastic side with the "Steadicam" logo helped as I pulled down the back corner at the same time.

Hi legends! I'm trying to fix some vibrations with my Zephyr. I'm currently trying to get inside the top stage to see if any connecting post screws need tightening. I cannot get the top stage opened up though. I've removed the four small screws underneath the stage which begins to separate the two plastic halves. However only 3 out of 4 corners want to open up for me. The rear right hand corner is being very stubborn and not giving. Does anybody have experience opening a Zephyr up like this. Video attached. NB: I was advised this would be the best method by Danny Hallett at a recent workshop but perhaps I am doing it incorrectly? Cheers, Sam. IMG_4121_1.mp4

Hi Ed! Old post I know but I'm in the exact same situation as you with my Zephyr. Did you ever get some vectran? If so, would love to know how/where you attached it to your Zephyr. Sam :)

Hey folks, I've never been able to achieve proper dynamic balance with my sled before (Zephyr). I've operated a fellow op's rig (Shadow) and achieved DB in less about 3-4minutes. So as far as I can tell it might be a problem with my kit. Does my gimbal need to be centred? If so, does anyone have instructions on how to do this? I've noticed that my Zephyr gimbal has some play in it and wondering if this is a culprit... 1. As I shift the yoke side to side I can feel there is about 1mm of play there. 2. As I push the handle in to out there is about 2mm of play here. Is this normal gimbal behaviour? See videos attached. _A.mp4 _B.mp4

Hey Doug, yes Scott is correct. You will find a sweet spot (just above horizontal) when you boom the arm up and down where the blue adjustment knobs become very easy to turn. Don't force them if they don't move, just boom up or down until they twist smoothly. You will need to have the sled with a camera mounted on the arm to do this.

Hi all, What's the best practise for docking the sled in low mode? Essentially, which part of the post assembly should be resting on the docking bracket? Would love to know in a general sense with different rigs but also what would work best for my rig (Zephyr) Cheers, Sam.

Hi all, I'm relatively new to the vast world of Steadicam. I see a lot of operators wearing gloves and I'm wondering if what the main advantages and reasons are? (not referring to gloves for cold weather conditions). Cheers, Sam.

Hey everyone, I've become increasingly frustrated at myself for not being able to achieve dynamic balance with a Flyer LE rig. For a while I assumed it was just impossible due to the battery mount being a 'swivelling paddle' rather than something that can slide fore and aft. However I went back and checked out the manual and sure enough, it states that it can be done by rotating that battery 'paddle' up and down. In theory I think I can understand how this is supposed to work however due to the rotating plate every time I shift the batteries 'in or out' and adjust the camera's for-aft, it also affects the bottom-heaviness of the whole rig and seems to throw things way out of whack again. I suppose I am seeking any advice from those of you who have achieved dynamic balance with a Flyer LE. I am losing confidence every time I attempt dynamic balance. Is it worth trying to refine my technique or should I just settle for static balance and wait until I can upgrade to a bigger rig? Thank you in advance for your response. Cheers, Sam.