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Maxwel Fisher

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Everything posted by Maxwel Fisher

  1. While I don't use a low mode monitor (haven't really seen a need yet), the transvideo seems most popular as far as low mode goes (especially if you're looking to also have a recorder). Second to that I'd suggest the small hd 503UB. My two cents. I'm sure someone who actually uses a low mode monitor can weigh in with more advice.
  2. The pad that I have for sale is too small for me. The pad I currently use is the perfect size for me. I hope I’m answering your question correctly.
  3. As far as pants and shorts are concerned, I have a 30" waist. However, following Pro's measuring guide, the waist pad that I actually use with my Pro vest is 34".
  4. Essentially a brand new waist pad. Long story short, fucked up the measuring process the first time around and here we are. The pad has been sitting on my shelf for a while now and I'm never going to fit it. Located in Atlanta. Happy to ship anywhere. $150
  5. XCS Short Handle for sale. Switched to an Ergo handle so no longer needing it. Greg gave it a once over and signed off on it. Was also surprised to see it still in use. Hole punched out for low mode. Happy to ship anywhere. Located in Atlanta. Asking $500
  6. Simeon, I believe that is correct. Below is a link to a similar, though brief discussion of overall payload support for the Zephyr system and should help give more insight into your limitations. Cheers
  7. Personally I'd go with the heavier weight for when you need to counter against a particularly large camera build. It will allow you to keep your post relatively compact, while still hopefully giving you a drop time you like. The inverse can happen though if you're flying mostly light builds where the bottom of the sled can get so heavy to the point where you're now moving your gimbal farther down the post and away from the camera's CG to make it more top heavy and get a better drop time. You could add more wight back on top to balance it out or fly one battery for the whole sled (if it's wired that way)...it's all about balance at the end of the day. Also, I don't know what the overall weight limit is on the Zephyr. So that would be the first thing in deciding which one to go with. As far as experience with the batteries goes, I like Anton Bauers line and use them personally. I have heard great things about Beebob, but have no on set experience with them. I've recently been looking at the new Core SWX Helix 150s.
  8. @Dustin Supencheck, Google sheets is fine. Excel or Numbers also works. Anything that allows you to neatly list your gear and its full cost. Make sure to keep it constantly updated. You should get in the habit of asking production to supply you a certificate of insurance (like they would for any gear house) with you or your company as the payee. You send them a copy of the itemized list you created and they send you a certificate. You should also try and get your own steadicam insurance policy. Do a weekly rate (or daily if you're a day player and your rig comes and goes with you), but it's totally up to you how you negotiate. If your rig is on a production, it can't be used on another whether or not it's working, so make sure you get paid for it. Also, if you dig around in the forum you'll find that a lot of productions will put up a fight on paying a loan out for the kit rental (If you want the kit paid directly to you on your normal pay stub then disregard this bit). I think there is also some grey area on production insurance and your kit being paid as a box rental, so make sure you do your research there. Hopefully someone else will chime in, but I believe some of this has been discussed before under the Legal/Business Practice section.
  9. In order to reply in the for sale section or wanted section you need to be a premium member. It’s pinned somewhere in the forum sections (I’m sorry I can’t remember which) and I think on the desktop site it’s in the side banner somewhere. It’s a one time fee paid via paypal.
  10. Hi @Paulo Aurelio, there are definitely used rigs for sale on here (would encourage you to use the search function on the site). You can also find some smaller packages that might be more in your budget on the Steadicam Marketplace group on Facebook. As far as choosing the best rig. That's more personal. Think about what most of your work entails and the kind of cameras you use. A lot of entry level packages have small weight limits, though you can always mix and match your gear to best fit what you need. Again, using the search feature or browsing through the "steadi-newbies" and "general discussion" sections will yield a wealth of information.
  11. While I don't live in California, I have an older generation 8" transvideo (1000nits I think) that I use for backup and even in Georgia I can't see much of anything in direct sunlight so I'm not sure 800nit is what you're looking for. I don't own one, but from what I've heard, the Boland BVB07 has a good weight (you can also add a battery mount to the back), is incredibly bright and the off axis view is pretty solid. They're also a bit cheaper than the 703 UB ($2,250 vs $2,999 US). I did a little bit of searching on the forum about the TV Logic F-7H (the one you're referring to). Somethings that came up were the off axis view was not as good as the 703 UB and that it also get's alarmingly hot when running for a while as if the housing is a heatsink (think Teradek). Is there a reason why you don't want a 6" monitor?
  12. @Dustin Supencheck, Baer-Bel to the best of my knowledge is German and technically no longer exists. There is a company called Catgriller (named after the plate for which the Baer-Bel founder is also known for) that still actively makes various steadicam accessories. From what I know through digging the forum (if you search Baer-Bel you'll find some good information) they are solid rigs. Sounds like you were looking at a hybrid since it has XCS lower electronics. I don't know enough about Baer-Bel to know what the post connectors look like on either end, but if it's a 2" post with XCS lower it might be an XCS post which is carbon fiber, not titanium or the original owner had the titanium post modified to XCS bayonet mount. If that's the case, you could definitely upgrade the top and bottom stages with other XCS components or reach out to Greg Bubb at XCS who does make modified connectors so you could use a GPI Pro top and bottom stage. Being a 2" post, the gimbal, since you haven't specified could be XCS, Baer-Bel or MK-V (think that's all the 2" compatible gimbals). The arm could absolutely be upgraded. The only thing would be making sure the arm posts fit properly inside the gimbal handle properly. Since you're in LA, you have the advantage of being surrounded by highly skilled operators and engineers who can likely help you do any modifications you need. Did you end up buying it? Post some photos if you've got them.
  13. Did a little research because I didn't have anything else to do today. The original xBone was designed to work with the Eco, Klassen and I think Action Products vest. The xReach also works with the Exo vest and others. The xBone CF makes no mention of working with Exo (from the flowcine site) and couldn't find any information on an adaptor. Doesn't mean one doesn't exist or that flowcine couldn't make one.
  14. If I’m running two canisters, I put them in diagonal to each other (canister closest to arm post goes up top, canister closest to socket block in the bottom). If you’re using two different spring types, same concept, they should be opposite one another (top section blue/black, bottom section black/blue). This, at least, has been the way I’ve always operated; though currently I run all four blues. Hope this helps, Maxwel
  15. You're welcome! I'm happy I could help! Cheers, Maxwel
  16. Norwin you're very welcome! As far as I know, the crossover block is a universal item for all the vests. Attached is what the regular (top) and goofy (bottom) crossover blocks looks like. I've also added photos of what my arm looks like in the block. I noticed that you in a goofy position have the longer threaded side to side adjustment on the vest in the lower position where I have mine on the regular side in the same spot. That is a little interesting to me. Quoting you here - "changing the angle of the socket block so the upper end of the block moves away from the vest while the lower part moves towards it, am i right?" - this is correct. It is exactly what my vest arm does. As far as the klassen drop arm goes, I don't know what it's overall purpose is other than to get the arm lower. I don't know if it has any effect on the side to side angle. I have the standard arm on my vest. I also use a flex vest. So our designs are a little different.
  17. Norwin, Is this vest new to you or have you had it for a while? The reason why I ask, is because it might be the crossover block. I had a similar issue with my flex vest after buying it second hand. It was set up for a goofy operator (I operate regular). I was able to switch the carbon fiber vest arm of course, insert my arm, but in order to get the rig to float properly off my body, my socket block looked similar to yours. I realized after that the angle of the vest's arm changed just enough due to the crossover block. I ordered a regular side crossover block and that fixed the problem. Hope this helps! I'll also try to find a photo or take one later today.
  18. And just like that, they’re gone. Admins, feel free to remove this post.
  19. Is it just me, or is the forum suddenly riddled with ads? I've got Men's Wearhouse in the header and Leibish in the footer. I even had to close full page one to see all the activity. Using Safari Version 14.
  20. Alex, Do you mean high-end boom range? The iBaird bracket would give you a lower low since it's a drop down bracket. I had the 4" at one point. Loved it as far as clearance for both my arm/elbow and monitor visibility. I'm 5'11", maybe 6' when I first wake up in the morning. If I ever needed more boom on the top end, I just put in a longer arm post. Hope that helps. Cheers, Maxwel Edit: Realized Alex's post is a year old. Gus, my comment is probably more relevant for you now.
  21. Hey Nathan, The iBaird 2" and 4" both work on a Pro vest set up for a "regular" operator. I say this having had a 4" iBaird as a "regular" operator. As for "goofy" setups, my understanding is that the 2" should not impede the waist latch from getting caught if you have a "regular" style vest, but if you go to the 4", you have to put the waist latch on the right side or the vest. I don't recall pro having an instructional video on the process of switching the waist latch from one side to the other, but I'm sure that Jack or Michelle can walk you through the process (drilling a couple holes if memory serves).
  22. @giovanni gebbia, saw your post on instagram. Curious where you tied in your composite in lines? Do you have photos from inside?
  23. http://magento2.p599278.webspaceconfig.de/de/catalogsearch/result/?cat=&q=mickey If this doesn't work, they sell them on www.catgriller.com, then search the site for mickey.
  24. Hey Michael, Camadeus is the US distributor. http://camade.us Cheers, Maxwel
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