Alec Jarnagin SOC

Alright folks, I'm starting a show next week and would love to have this off my plate. PM me serious offers.

SOLD!!!!! Thank you!!!!!!

Guys, someone just asked me about selling a receiver by itself. This is a package price. I would consider selling the TX with the just two RX and leaving the Sidekcik out if someone prefers but that's it (and please don't ask me about just the Sidekick yet). Thank you!

Fabulous. That was easy. Thanks all.

Still for sale (he wanted to know if he could buy just the AB back)!

Small HD AC7 OLED SDI Monitor with Anton Bauer back and sunshade. ​I bought this monitor to use as a Director's monitor with a Teradek system and NEVR ended up using it. I installed the AB plate, turned it on to make sure it worked and that was it. NEW in the ORIGINAL Box. Never even took off the screen protection. Price: $600 plus shipping.

Teradek 2000 for sale: (1) Bolt PRO 2000 3G/SDI Transmitter AND receiver kit: $8490.00 NEW —— Includes (1) power cable for each unit and antennae for each unit. Also includes (1) AC Adapter. (1) Additional Bolt PRO 2000 receiver (this one is both 3G-SDI and HDMI). $4190.00 NEW —— Includes (1) power cable and (1) AC Adapter (1) Bolt PRO Dual Battery Plates for receivers. Places the receivers in an Anton Bauer sandwich so you can click it into an AB mount (i.e. on the back of a monitor) and then place a battery on the back for power. Also has a 5/8” spud (baby pin receiver) so you can place it on a stand if you don’t want to mount to AB plate. $390.00 NEW (1) Gen 1 Sidekick (3G-SDI). Compatible with any Bolt 300, 600, 2000. $1990.00 NEW _ _ Includes (1) AC adapter. Total NEW is $15060.00 Price: $9500.00 Plus shipping.

Preston parts for sale: MDR-2 Motor Driver (S/N 1506) w/ microwave transceiver (S/N MT-1914) (2) DM-2 Digital Motor S/N 3285, 3286 Part #4201 (2) Hill Universal PAM w/ 19mm iris arm kit (2) Blue Reducers (19mm to 15mm) (2 ) Red Reducer (19mm to 5/8") 2 MDR-2 Cables:
 MDR-2 to CineTape Interface Part #4542 Power Cable MDR-2 to AB Power Tap - Part # 4473 Power Cable MDR-2 to Panavision 24Volt w/ 2-pin - Part #4472 Power Cable MDR-2 to Arri 24V/Moviecam - Part #4499 Power Cable MDR-2 12V (8' w/ XLR) - Part #446 Power Cable MDR-2 24V Arri battery (8' w/ 3pin XLR) - Part #4465 Power Cable MDR-2 24V Panavision battery (8' w/ 3pin XLR) - Part #4462 Camera Cable MDR-2 to Arriflex 435/535/SR3/Moviecam 3-pin - Part #4521 Camera Cable MDR-2 to Panavision - Part #4522 Camera Cable MDR-2 to RED One - Part #4543 Camera Cable MDR-2 to RED Epic - Part #4546 Camera Cable MDR-2 to Sony Hi Def - Part #4435 Camera Cable MDR-2 to Arriflex 3- Part #4520 Camera Cable MDR-2 to Aaton - Part #4524 Lens Cable MDR-2 to Fujinon - Part #4528 Lens Cable MDR-2 to Canon - Part #4529 Lens Cable MDR-2 to Canon HD - Part #4532 Preston, Main Command Cable (30') - Part #4400 Price:
 MDR-2 with all the cables: $2,900US.
 DM-2 Motors with PAM bracket and reducers: $1900US/ each. Package price for everything: $6400US Plus I’ll include two motor to MDR cables (worth about $200/each). Please note that the MDR-2 has been upgraded to 4G and Blue Dot (allows more channels to be used). To get the full capacity from this unit, I’d recommend pairing it with an HU-3 especially since it includes the very useful and expensive Cinetape Interface Cable which is over $600! The MDR was just serviced by Preston and all the latest updates were made as well as the “direction” switch on the zoom channel was replaced. Both motors were also inspected. One had the aluminum gear replaced and the other was already in great shape.

Shawn, search the archives here on the Forum. A great deal has been written on the subject. The King Daddy arms are the G-70X and PRO Titan which sound like they are more arm than you need. The G-50X and the PRO Atlas would be great (and possibly found used). Tiffen also makes smaller arms which are good too depending on your weight needs.

That's odd Brad. My 702 is perfect which is one of the main reasons I bought the 703!

James, I have received the yoke and put it all together. Works great. For giggles, I added the anti-reflective coating yesterday and it's very clear. Not sure how much it cuts reflections but it installs easily and protects the screen. I'm currently on a bit of a break from work so I haven't really used it yet in the real world.

I love this idea! To clarify, any model 2 used would have to still have the multiple center posts (many were converted to a single 1.5' post later). I'm not even sure where mine is to be honest and it didn't fire up some years back when I last tried.

Don't have that, but I have two XCS monitor brackets laying around for 2" posts if you need one.. One is the original single tube kind and the other is the current two rod system.

Thank you Alastair and Keith. Very kind of you.

Hi all, Like most of us, I’m always on the lookout for reliable daylight viewable monitors. I used the old CRT green screens for a very long time because of the limitations of LCD technology at the time, but finally made the switch to LCD when the Cinetronic was introduced (first a Gen 1 and then the Gen 2). Many high NIT monitors suffer in the color department as its very difficult to maintain accurate color rendition with large amounts of backlight being pumped through the screen. For Steadicam use, I’ve always accepted this limitation as the monitor is really there for framing. This said, I’ve always wanted a more color accurate monitor with programable LUTs so everyone who looks at my monitor sees a better rendition of the image we are capturing. The color and contrast on the 703U seem to be spot on and there is still detail in the shadow areas which have also been known to suffer on “high-bright" monitors. In addition, the 703U has all the features of the 702 (which I’ve been using on “Studio Mode” cameras) with its intuitive menus and many, many features. Here are some pictures of the tests I did and some thoughts. For comparison, I mounted the 703 to my Cinetronic 2 monitor so both could fly on the Steadicam at the same time. I used my Sony F3 camera for signal which puts out a psf signal. As has been pointed out, there was a firmware issue with the 703's release (which has since been fixed, but I did these tests prior to that) so I ran the image through a Decimator MDX (which I leave full time on my Cinetronic 2 as it does not handle psf at all). The Cinetronic monitor is mounted closer to the sled (monitor arm sucked all the way in) so it's a bit more shaded as it's under the camera and Preston but the difference is very slight. The image on the Small HD is clearly sharper with more contrast and way better color. It definitely catches more reflections on the glass though but between the horsepower and better contrast the image is very close. Also proves just how amazing the Cinetronic 2 is all these years later. The build quality on the Small HD seems solid. Much beefier than the 702 and it has Lemo connectors. Its still very light so I'll be carrying a battery on the back for Steadicam use. The photos were taken on an iPhone and are of course limited to that image quality. I have Cam-Jam sending me parts to mount it on my sled and I'm looking forward to using it in the field. I like the idea of having the same monitor on dolly and Steadicam. Of note, there is no analog (NTSC/PAL) input on the new generation of Small HDs. Having bought the Digital only ("basic") XCS level though, I've entered a digital only world. In the unlikely event I see a SD tap on a camera, I suspect there will be an AJA analog to SDI converter so we can transmit via a Teradek anyway. Maybe I'll even buy my own converter but this insures I'll never need one! Funny how we've come full circle (we used to carry down-converters).

Walter, If you have not returned it yet, you may wish to wait. It is a firmware issue. They emailed me Firmware 1.5.1 and I did some side by side tests with my two monitors and my Sony F3 yesterday. Top monitor is the old firmware. Bottom one is the new version. Big difference.

Edmundo, Welcome to our Forum. You need to contact Tim Tyler, our Admin, to change your display name. You can PM here: http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showuser=1 As for your question, yes, heavier rigs are inherently more stable, BUT there are so many factors. I recommend you read through our "Newbies" section as it is a Goldmine for beginners (and I've moved this thread there as well). This section is meant for beginners and enthusiasts (we are mostly a Forum for Professional Operators - that is why we are so picky about the real name thing). Searching through the archives will address many of your questions. I'd recommend a workshop too before you start playing around with a lot of weight and hurting yourself! Take good care, Alec Jarnagin, SOC Steadicam Forum Moderator

Alex, sorry but I don't really know. I can't say I use the zoom feature on my 702 much, but hopefully someone can chime in.

I had the chance to play with the prototype awhile back and I'll be ordering one. I did not get to see it in sunlight, but frankly my 702 Bright which I use for Studio mode operating has been so good that I have high confidence in this big brother. More than twice as bright (2500 NITS versus 1000 NITS - although NITS aren't everything), glass bonded screen, and all the functions I love in my 702. Plus, Lemo connector for power (same as the Teradek cables) with a 2nd Lemo for passthrough power as well. Not sure why someone is bashing Small HD as I've found them to be incredibly responsive and a fabulous company. As for the weight Doc, its beefier than the 702 by a lot, but still light so you'd need to add a battery on the back. I've already put Matthias Biber from Cam-Jam in touch with Small HD abut making a yoke for his great monitor bracket. Here are a few snap shots I took when I saw the monitor:

I have an XCS dual rod (straight) monitor bracket for 2" posts I'm not using. Fits directly to a 2" post. The sleave part you also mention should be part of the post (assuming you're putting it on an XCS post), but if not, adapters can be found. Message me and we can discuss. Thank you.

Chris, I'd still test with four springs in the arm as the vast majority of the time this is how we fly. Many of us use two blue springs and two black springs as our default configuration, but as cameras have gotten lighter, those four springs have very few turns on them. Thus, the same pay load could be flown with four blue springs cranked up higher so the question is, does this make a difference in performance? I suspect if it does, its slight, but Ron Baldwin got me thinking about this when I was just in LA. Again, according to PRO, it does not matter (if I remember correctly) but I'd love to see your test done both ways.

Fabulous stuff Chris! Thanks for taking the time to do this. And damn nice posture too (don't try that at home kids!). As many, including me, have pointed out here and on Facebook, the PRO arm runs better with the bone angles slightly down from one another. Then on the Facebook discussion, Ron Baldwin pointed out the possibility of testing different spring canisters in the PRO arm at various tensions to see if that makes a difference as well. According to PRO (if I remember correctly), the arm behaves more or less the same regardless of spring configuration and settings, but I bet there is a slight difference in performance. In other words, it would be interesting to run the test with the spring configured where the springs are cranked higher (i.e. four blue springs cranked up verses two black & two blue with less tension). As Chris points out, the PRO arm is so good out of the box, but I wonder if like the G-70X, playing with tuning options changes the test results. Obviously, both arms are amazing and I don't think this (or any) test is going to make one arm "king." At the end of the day both arms have been used to make extraordinary shots. The Operator brings the talent and picks their tools based on personal preference.

Matias, Hope you're well. This is the converter Doc is talking about. I leave mine on the sled all the time as it adds some nice mass to the monitor and I don't need a battery on the back. With the latest firmware, it also lets you flip the image if you need to.

I used to use all Pelican cases, but now I use a combination. Pelicans to house different groups of items (i.e. one for Gyros, one for "overflow," one for Teradek, one for Preston). These cases often can be left on the truck (or not brought at all if the item is not needed). Then I have a Modular 51 bag for Steadicam AKS (plates, cables, Garfield mount, various goodies) that lives on the cart. Then another soft bag (PortaBrace) for batteries and chargers. These are heavy bags so a hard case would add to that weight plus they need to have very easy in/out access.

In general, I bill equipment through my LLC and sign none of this. NBC (And a few others) though are a pain in the ass and won't do that so I've had to use a box form and I cross out those lines.