Fabrizio Sciarra SOC ACO

No it's not. and yes you are wrong you never want the fastest drop time, it makes the rig very pendular. That is VERY bad advice What workshop did you attend? A fastest drop time than 4/5 seconds (with a Flyer specially) I believe makes the sled much more easy to fly in a walk and talk with NO tilting involved, and yes I still believe is gonna be easier specially for a novice (this is a suggestion that has been given from many operators in the past, just check yourself on the forum, everywhere is reported to start with around 2 seconds drop time to keep things easy, also on the Flyer manual). Pendulum? If the sled is well balanced and the operator learned already starts and stops technique, I don't see where the problem is. Than if we are talking about having a responding sled in complicated shots involving fast tilting is something else, but is not the case discussed in this thread. Workshop, I attended twice the mk-v, but I don't think that has something to do with what is reported even on Tiffen manuals. As always, is a matter of personal preferences, but to help a novice in understanding a correct and easy set up I think 5 sec drop time for a walk and talk it's a kind of a hard beginning. Hope now it make sense

:ph34r: 4/5 seconds for a walk and talk? This is kind of a weird set up.... What's your drop time for a shot that involves many tilts? Theory: (correct me if I'm wrong): the fastest the drop time is, more stable the sled is, so for a simple walk and talk with no tilting involved the best drop time should be very fast, specially for a novice that still have to "fight" many other factors. Hope it make sense

That's a great news! Thanks for let us know best Fabrizio

Hey Themis, good to hear from you. Starts and stops are simply one of the many skills to learn and practice, like pans or walk in a line; again, no workshop means no basics in knowledge, so you are starting in an even more difficult way, but you're working hard and keeping on will give you results. It will be a long way and you'll probably develop some bad habits on the road that will be difficult to leave later on. Inertia, as said in the older topic, certainly will help in some situations, but be happy, once you learn operating with a small and light rig you'll be an excellent op when it will be time to upgrade to a full "heavy" rig. The light touch you are going to develop in this phase is something that will work also on the heavier rigs later on, so again make treasure of the experience you're in now, one day it will pay back with interest. My tip for smoother starts and stops, a longer drop time can helps you to control the rig (i.e. 3 secs instead of 2, but carefull, then the sled will be even more sensitive at the touch, then you'll really need a VERY light touch). Also, is when your fingers on the gimble and your body in general are called to correct and anticipate the reaction of the sled. It will just take time. So, don't give up, if you know is the way you want to go, work hard to make it happen, and remember, if it were so easy.......... All the best Fabrizio P.S. keep showing us your videos, you'll quickly improve receiving inputs 'till you'll take your workshop which i wish you to have as soon as you deserve

Hey Themis, I had a look at the video you've linked. Let's keep it simple. Forget for a second dynamic balance (which i don't know if it is even possible to reach with your rig), and will affect your operating only in few circumstances (i.e. pans) Once Static balance is reached, and with a reasonable dropping time, (your choice, but to keep it easy start with 2 sec) you should be able to get simple shot like the one in the video without too many troubles, let's say for example a straight forward walk. Instead, what is showing in your shots looks like an overcontrol on a post that won't to be where you want to put it. Again, that could be for many reason, like a non balanced sled, a too heavy touch, wrong movements of your spine transmitted to the sled and the list can go on and on and on......... As all the other fellow ops suggests, if you go for a workshop, it will save your time and will gives you the basics to start up in the best way, avoiding mistakes that can be easily avoided with the proper knowledge; if you can't afford it, try to get in touch with an operator close to your place that will probably help giving you advices. All the sleds will moves if you blow on it, it has to be like that, the more the gimble is sensitive and friction free the better it is. The total weight of the unit has nothing to see with the correct balance of it, inertia will show up on starts and stops for example, but won't help you during a simple walk (think about all the owners of the little Merlin when you talk about weight). Have you tryed to operate the sled without touching it? This will reveal a lot, if it's in correct static balance won't go anywhere.....in this way you'll discover quickly if it's your touch affecting the shot. Don't give up, keep us informed on your improvements that undoubtely will comes with perseverance and practice. Hope it helps Fabrizio

Hi Darren, the only difference between the two vests is the size; the compact is made to fit smaller bodies. Fabrizio

Yup, Matt is right about costs, but anyway you can take a look by yourself at mk-v.com, there you'll find the full pricelist in detail, piece by piece, also as Matt suggest, send e mails directely to find out costs and dates for workshops in Euope. I can only suggest, when you choose for a workshop, look for the best instructor, not for a brand (you can check the IMDB to better understand what i mean). The Mk-v is fully modular, but keep in mind that V-25 or Artemis are not, so difficult to upgrade one with the other. Mk-v is intended to be compatible with many parts of other Pro brands (Tiffen, PRO, and some others, but defenetly no glidecam or artemis, which find their place in a lower market). The meaning of a fully upgreadable system it means that you buy a sled today to fly a mini dv in a cage and later on keeping most of the same parts you'll be able to fly a 35mm camera with all bells and whistles. Hope it helps Fabrizio

Jeeeeez Jason, that's what i call a dam Fu..ing luck!!!!!!!!! How did you find it? The winner is gonna hit the market for the next couple of years (if the rig doesn't break) :ph34r: Can't stop laughing, seriously, we have to keep an eye on this offer.....

Hi Gabriele, i had the chance to fly the mk-v lite when i was @mk-v to take a workshop, and owning also a flyer i can tell you that there's a huge difference in performance between the two, that's my opinion of course, but remember also that you're comparing two sleds that aren't in the same price range, and this is reflected of course in technical choices and quality of materials that are used to build the rig. As Job said, the Lite is fully upgradable and is a modular concept, the flyer born and die as it is; A great combination? Fly the Lite on the Flyer arm, just sweeeet. Mk-v workshop? Simply fantastic, don't miss it; better, take it before to choose a rig, it will give you the basic knowledge to choose the best for your needs. Prices, ask directely @mk-v, no better source. Hope it helps Fabrizio

Same here!

Hi Ron, yes, we are referring to the chroziel top stage, sold from MK-V as a Deluxe top stage for the Nexus sled. It's very sturdy and precise, i personally didn't open it yet to service it, but once i toke it a part to remove the tilting stage and was a piece of cake (with an allen key you have access to everything you need) The quick release is superb as well in my opinion. No vibrations at ALL, even with very heavy cameras (I use to fly 535 with all bells and whistles on it) Cheers Fabrizio

Cool, I chose the same set up Nexus+Deluxe top stage also because of the plan to get the AR next; but i'll have to wait a while more (budget speaking) <_< Maybe Santa....who knows... :P

Hey Andrew, good to hear it, I have an AR in plan as well for next year :rolleyes: just out of curiosity, on which sled are you flying the AR? Best Fabrizio

I say many because i thought i saw 3 systems on this forum and 2 on SOA the last couple of months. I think there are less MK-V systems outthere then any other brand, so that's the reason i noticed it.. Erik Mmm, there are two systems on this forum (one it appears two times but is the same owner that post it twice) and one is posted on SOA; I believe you're correct when you say that probably there aren't much MK-V on the market compared with other brands, but as well i believe that two or three systems for sale are not suspicious at all. Fabrizio

Maybe i'm wrong or misunderstanding something.. but why do i see so many MK-V Rigs, Sleds or other MK-Vparts for sale ? Erik Hi Eric, I've seen couples of sleds on this forum and one AR on SOA classifieds in the last three months, why do you say "many"? :ph34r:

Hi Job, same Litepanels just came out with a new DMX control system that will work with ANY litepanels unit. Check at their homepage Fabrizio Ops, looks like hardwired :ph34r:

Hi Job, same Litepanels just came out with a new DMX control system that will work with ANY litepanels unit. Check at their homepage Fabrizio

Hi Eric, my 2 cent. Go for a workshop BEFORE to spend your money (a lot) in a rig that you're not able to judge if is the one that will fit your needs. (Do you know the difference between a Steadicam Ultra2, or a Pro, or a Xcs, or a Mk-v, or or or). That is strictly related with your second question, things to "think" before to buy a rig. If you gonna work for a while with your friends in minor after school projects an Ultra2 sound a bit too much (is like buying a Ferrari Maranello your first day of driving licence). Also, have you ever tryed an Ultra2 or any other high end rig in heavy configuration, let's say like with an Arri 535 with all bells and whistles, let's say for five minutes? What about your back? Do you know how it would responde? I would listen at the fellows here on the forum that gave you some "real" suggestions. Steadicam IS fascinating, but it requires an attitude as well, not forgetting a mandatory experience in camera department in my opinion. So, why don't you apply for a two days workshop in the meantime (if you'll go at Malibu workshop next year you can save a lot of time AND you can get your hands dirty until then). Go at your local dealer and buy a Flyer,(this will not overkill your pockets or the one of your parents) practice, A LOT, practice everything you'll learn in the workshop, READ everything you can on this forum, which is an invaluable resource for pros. Find a Menthor, you are just surrounded by if you are in L.A area. (best operators available worldwide are based there, so you're dam lucky!!!!!) I believe this process will drive you gradually in a position where you'll feel more confident in taking decisions, that sometimes can be hard to take without the right guidance. Hope this answer your questions without beeing harsh, which is not my intention at all. All the best, and again, think well before to make an investment that you can regret in the future. Fabrizio

Hi David, i suggest you to go on the SOA site, take a look at the manuals page, from there you can download quite a variety of manuals that will helps you solve your problem, or at least have a much deeper understanding about the phisics and the cg effects applyed on a rig. Antlers are quite a specific tool that you usually apply on the rig to increase inertia and are widely used in tracking shot/long lens (50-85). I don't think they will help you if you are in the stage where you have difficult to keep your horizon. Hope it can help Fabrizio

Dear all, I'm looking to by a used flyer v-lock mount, if any want to sell his own for a reasonable price please pm me. fly safe B) Fabrizio Sciarra

Hi William, I had to face the same issue, in the place where I'm based we use to fly 535 and 435. On my Nexus, suggested by Howard Smith (MK-V), I adapted a second set of batteries, Pag LOKON20,(adapted because they made me a v-lock system that is the one I already have on my sled). I just receive it and I'll test it on the 12th and 13th on set, if you are inerested I'll let you know. Hope it can help Best Fabrizio Sciarra