Jess Haas SOC

For me the key is to have multiple stands. The weight of the pneumatic tire stand is what makes it so solid so in situations where it is suitable it is great. I also carry a single riser without wheels for situations where the heavy stand is a liability.I can also dock on my cart.

American makes a wider base version. They might be able to modify your current stand. Do you have the single or double riser? I find the single riser without wheels to not be too heavy. Just barely tall enough to be functional without wheels on though.

I think they still make a converter that requires regulated 12v but the ones with the beefier milled aluminum housings do not. Check the specs on your particular unit

The carnet will let you enter Italy or any other carnet country without having to pay import taxes. It will also let you bring it home. If traveling without it your gear could end up stuck in customs until you pay a company to get it out which i would assume would be a lot more expensive than getting a carnet in advance. If traveling without a carnet registering with US customs before the trip will atleast let you bring it home (assuming you are from the US) without having to pay import duties.

You probably want to get a carnet if you dont want any hassles. Google it and youll get lots of info.

Does PRO have db2 levers that make it compatible with all plates? If so wouldnt bother. Not sure about price, should be less than that. Might get rid of the lever and do a bigger clamping surface. Either way its going to be a little bit since I have other projects to finish first.

Ive been thinking about making up some new ones that add a little thickness. Right now mine has a piece of gaff tape on it so that it will tighten down tighter.

PRO plates are slightly wider than tiffen and some third party plates and the db2 cant tighten down enough for the slimmer plates. The db3 fixed this as it can tighten down more. Some carefully placed tape seems to work for some people on the db2.

Aluminum is actually very difficult to glue to with any lasting results so you might not want to go that route if it requires adhesion. If it just fills the gap and is held mechanically in place that might work

They are a larger diameter and i believe stainless steel so they dont need to be in order to be strong and stiff enough.

Non HD-SDI rated cable will often work for short runs but since it is a marginal signal to begin with as the cable and connections degrade it gets flaky or stops working all together. Your best bet for a thin cable is probably Beldin 179DT. Where are you located?I have the crimp tool. If your in LA and want to swing by I could help you out for a reasonable price.

Not nearly as quick as changing an arm post but it's a neat tool to have in your back pocket.

Also check all the bolts that hold the arm together. Both the one you tighten with an Allen wrench and the ones that use the little pin spreaders pro gives you. Mine were a little loose and I was starting to get some creaking.

Jens, what do you have against the carbon fiber housing? Might look a little gimmicky but should be atleast as durable as the plastic they were using before.

I believe he said it would be able to work on other rigs. It's self contained so don't see any reason it couldn't be made to work on others.

It's a little joystick for tilt controll. They also have a little monitor mounted on the gimbal handle because you can't see your regular monitor most of the time.

Male(Arm side) or Female(vest side)?

I haven't tried it but the plastic mesh they often use at construction sites seems like it might work well and be inexpensive. Main downside I can think of is that it is usually orange. Lots of people end up barefoot on the beach so chicken wire seems a bit pokey to me.

If you walk on wet sand its no problem. Soft sand sucks no matter what way you slice it. For wind go with a fast drop time and some double nets for a wind block. Also try to keep sand out of bearings and at the end of the day put a little Corrosion-X on any metal that might rust.

Are the screws coming loose? If so the threads may be stripped. The 4 screws connecting the dbox are the ones that should really matter. Is there play between the bayonet and the post? Where are you located?

Have you checked the set screws that get rid of the play in the side to side and fore/aft adjustments? There is a video on how to do it on PRO's site. If it's not tight enough the top of the db2 can move around.

Either make it gold mount or just a small receiver with no battery mounting like the original Bolt.

I had my monitor drop out in the middle of a very long take on a music video. Afterwards they said it was the best take. Maybe we should start a no monitor Steadicam trend :-)

Email sent as a message. Don't want pesky robots finding it and filling her email with junk.

Is anyone using their ergo handle with a lowmode bracket? Are you using two lowmode bracketc to mount the handle upright or did you add a fastener to the ergo handle?