Matt Petrosky

50 ohms is LESS resistance then 75 ohms, so the 50 ohm connectors are over-spec, which is good. If you look at a cross section of 50 ohm cable it has a much thicker copper core then 75 ohm cable. Your commitment to making this work is commendable, it's a lot of work to do all that you have done. Hope it all works out for you. -Matt

I concur. Glad you got your money.

Hey Hugo, I too am interested in this. In addition to switching out the post wiring I imagine that the connectors are different and therefore will require the mating connectors on the top and bottom stage to be changed as well? Keep us posted. -Matt

Good riddance, what the hell is wrong with people???

Wow, what an effort for a promo. The set alone is impressive. Thanks for the link Charles. -Matt

Yeah Happy Birthday dude! Nerd out at Cinegear for me... I'm still out of town. -Matt

Yeah, thanks. I clicked on the linked file and appears to be truncated after channel 29. I'm a bit confused, I swear my MDR has channels well into the 40s? Maybe it's safari acting up? On the PDF I get 0 thru 29, then the column lines continue a bit but are cut off. Any chance you can check the original file or upload it again? Or is this something HU3 specific? -Matt

I use it sometimes, find it very handy to have. Also if you are upgrading or putting a new system together, it is of note that Skipp's Engineering makes an improved version of the PAM Hill Bracket system. Pretty much all of the parts are interchangeable but the new system has better, more solid rosettes for the motors (they do not twist at all) and various lengths of arms, etc.. I think it's all a bit cheaper too. Call Mike over there (818-882-3500), he is a great guy and good resource--makes all sorts or parts and widgets, and his machining is tops. -Matt

West-side!!!! ...and welcome! -Matt

That is what I was planning on doing but was just wondering if anyone knew what it is supposed to be in order to double check. On the FFA.3S.303 Lemo connector (the end that plugs into the Panaflex body) pin 1 is +24vdc, pin 2 is GND, and pin 3 is not connected. I believe the S-series has the pin number printed next to the solder cup on the inside of the connector. -Matt

Nice... what does/will the 6" cost??? -Matt

The digital levels are not inertia-proof, but I think they handle it a bit better in terms of a faster recovery to an accurate read-out. Also the sensor itself is usually mounted very close to the center of the center post which serves two purposes. One, it can provide a more accurate, less-biased reading (assuming proper zero setting) because it is closer to the center point of the gimbal (which would be the ideal placement for a level sensor). And two, because the sensor is not way out on the monitor like a bubble level it takes a faster pan to upset it then the equivalent if the sensor was placed on the monitor. Not sure if this explanation is clear, maybe Eric or someone can chime in. Also to clarify that the digital levels for steadicam are not technically artificial horizons (gyro horizon), like in aircraft, which are more tolerant of inertial forces. -Matt

It's a 5/32" straight (not ball-end) hex. -Matt

Preston MDR-2 to Aaton 2-pin Lemo should be: Aaton Pin 1 GND to Preston Pin 1 GND Aaton Pin 2 START (Relay Trigger) to Preston Pin 4 Cam RUN (Active Low) This is assuming the 12pin Lemo FGG.2B on the MDR-2 and the 2pin Lemo FAA 0S (I think) on the Aaton. You can also trigger the Aaton via the 8pin and I think also with the 6pin. DOUBLE CHECK THE ABOVE WITH PRESTON--I WOULD. Good luck, Matt

Hey Matteo, The "bolla" you are talking about is called a bubble level or spirit level (or just level for short) in english. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spirit_level And yes, they can be a very useful aid in judging and maintaining your horizon. Welcome to the forum, Matt

Doc, I think you've answered your own question, at least based on the pictures we've seen of the mysterious 4000. No way HD-SDI is being transmitted by a box that size, not yet anyway. I hope I can be proven wrong about this sooner rather then later. -Matt

Now, let not get carried away, jumping to conclusions... this hardly proof of a crack-free lifestyle Charles. :blink: ;)

The Elaine uses the same power connector as the XL (ie. the 2-pin Lemo, aka: Pana-24v heater cable). I'm pretty sure the Pan-Arri 35III uses this too. G, GII, Platinum, Star, LWII, etc. use the larger 3-pin power cable. Here is a picture of the Elaine on my PRO, and it is heavy for 16mm. Also, never a bad idea to double check these things with Panavision as this picture is a couple years old and they (Panavision) change things around from time to time.

I hope your cafe has a vast selection of tea. And hire some hotties! :rolleyes:

What Rod didn't tell you is that he gets a bump for double posting... ;) -Matt

I second Erwin's comments, they are great. Simple and well-made, I have both versions. Liked them as an AC, love them as an operator, very light. -Matt

Except that an Arricam LT is over 200.000 Euros, and that's just the body. You would also need new mags, accessories, etc. The Compact MkII is a great option for owners that's a RELATIVELY reasonable cost, relatively being the operative word. -Matt

Ha ha, Doc. Funny and true! -Matt

I think I remember being told that the lubricant is to help counter the heat caused by friction at high speed. Of course we never run our gimbal bearings at anywhere near what whey are rated for. Even whip pans and spin-balancing are slow relative to what these bearings can handle, and we only do it for shot periods of time. The enemy of our bearings is not friction, but rather dirt and other particulate that can clog and eventually damage the bearing. Lubricant attracts and retains more dirt. -Matt

Bummer that you're having a problem with it... I've been using SystemOptimizerX for years with no problems and I've been using SOCKS since it came out. Keep my PBG4 running smooth. Good luck with it and welcome to the Steadicam Forum.