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Mark Schlicher

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Everything posted by Mark Schlicher

  1. Jordan, It is the grip directly beneath the gimbal, but it is not soft foam. It is textured hard metal. Some operators put bicycle grip tape or the like on it, but in order to be responsive it can't be squishy-soft. The Glidecam post is both small and slippery. If you are very clever and have access to some machine-shop tools you could fashion an add-on grip. Practically speaking, the best you may be able to do is experiment with tape to increase the friction so you can improve control. There are some brief explanations of grip, technique and related topics in the various Steadicam manuals that Tiffen has on the Steadicam website. Start with the Pilot and Scout manuals. By the way, when I say "serious about the craft" I mean "serious about improving your work". It's not about your gear (except to the extent that your gear will limit you as you get better) or your ultimate career path. It's about caring about doing your best right now with what you have right now. And you should invest in the Steadicam Operators Manual at your earliest opportunity. As a future DP or director (if you go that direction), you will get a real leg up on understanding how to collaborate with Steadicam operators more effectively.
  2. A few years back Erwin posted about the Camera Comfort Cushion for handheld operating. With the advent of memory foam and gel, I wonder if there are any new solutions, either DIY or manufactured. If you own a CCC, does it do the job for you? Have you tried any customized foam inside the zippered pocket? I went to Home Depot today and didn't find anything suitable to modify from their (surprisingly small) selection of kneepads. Maybe I'll try Lowes. I just started a handheld show for a few weeks and my shoulder is taking a beating from the mediocre shoulder pad. For now I'm stuffing a square of two-inch open-cell foam under my shirt and it works okay but I'd love to have a better solution. Suggestions appreciated!
  3. First, that's some pretty good results for running with a handheld Glidecam. On stairs no less. Longer drop time does help with pendular motion, but it's a matter of controlling with your gimbal hand...it's not automatic. You must use your fingers and thumb to anticipate and counter pendular and other forces, to achieve clean lockoffs and keep your horizons level. The Steadicam Operator's Handbook goes into the topic pretty deeply and I believe the EFP training video handles the topic, too. If you are serious about the craft you should get these both and study them thoroughly. Also, one of the (many) limitations of the Glidecam, if I remember correctly, is that there is not a proper large-diameter grip under the gimbal. This makes it harder to control, including damping pendular motion.
  4. Mike McGowan is a classy guy. Ian, you should take his advice and follow his example.
  5. Victor, You ordered the recessed-button version, I believe others had referenced this one: 806427, which has a non-recessed button. That's probably why yours is taller than you expected.
  6. Is it worth the money? That's a subjective call. Do you have a vest-and-arm Merlin system or just the handheld? If Vest and arm, I think the change is not as dramatic (but the cost to by just a Pilot sled is not as dramatic either). But is is still significant. But I would say the difference in operation between a handheld Merlin and any vest and arm system is indeed very dramatic. You will also experience a dramatic shift in feel (due to the increased masses) between a Pilot and full-size rigs (Pilot is by no means considered a fullsize rig by professionals). But not, in my opinion, as big as the shift from a handheld rig to a vest and arm. Strongly suggest you find a Pilot rig to try it on, at a rental house, an operator, or a dealer. That way you can decide for yourself.
  7. Thanks for the heads-up on this potential problem, guys. I've not experienced it but I am forewarned and will shortly be forearmed (pun intended).
  8. Nice, Peter. You remember how I pined for something like this when I had my Gen 1 Flyer...
  9. Ana, please don't let any self-appointed gatekeeper make you feel unwelcome in the Newbie section. Good gear is important, but there is no rule that I'm aware of that says you have to own professional-level gear to post a question in this sub-forum. What is most important in the Newbie section is that you demonstrate a serious desire to respect, understand and learn the craft. The uncomfortable fact is that the Laing stabilizer is not a well-built or well-engineered piece of equipment. Like a $50 guitar that won't stay in tune, you will probably be continually frustrated by the Laing's poor construction and its effects on your learning how to operate. If you are serious you will need to consider upgrading very soon. Although a couple of folks who frequent the forum have tried out the Laing (and found it sorely lacking), I doubt that anyone here can diagnose your particular problems from afar. To add to the suggestion to find another forum frequented by Liang users (try Reduser.net, for starters), you could try to find a sympathetic local Steadicam operator to check the rig for you, to confirm whether it is a defect vs. inexperience. This may be difficult, but there are many generous operators, and they may even be curious to see a Laing in person. In a more general sense, the recommendations that will help you the most are the same that were given to me, and that every newbie receives. Take heed, they are: 1. Buy the Steadicam Operators Handbook and study it. (Amazon.com) 2. Buy the EFP training DVD and understand it. (Steadicam.com) 3. Take some kind of a workshop (at least a private lesson or two from an operator, or one of Tiffen's weekend workshops). 4. Practice, practice, practice. The other thing you should know is that most questions you could think of have been asked and answered before. Please make liberal use of the browse and search functions. Good luck in your pursuit of camera stabilization.
  10. Has your videographer ever used or been trained on a stablizer? Training will help develop the skills to troubleshoot these symptoms, which could have many sources (including lack of understanding on the part of your videographer, no disrespect intended.) This stabilizer is known to be limited quality design and manufacture. Sounds like something is slipping. Could be anything, either above or below the gimbal. Even small shifts could cause unbalance. A defective gimbal probably could, too. Troubleshoot carefully and slowly. Mark the position of every adjustment point (pencil works well). Then try to reproduce the problem and see what has shifted. If you are then sure nothing has shifted, I'd suspect the gimbal. Sorry to say you get what you pay for. With patience, practice and perhaps some training, you might be able to achieve useable results. Again no disrespect intended, but you shouldn't spend a lot of time trying to figure out what to charge until you (or your videographer) learn the gear and insure you can deliver something that a client would be willing to pay for.
  11. Chris, I second Tom's advice, as well as Alan and VIctor's. Welcome to the forum, and good luck in your studies and your exploration of the art of camera stabilization.
  12. Interesting. I've never had those particular symptoms. Perhaps I'll go stress-test my rig at a rental house when I get the chance.
  13. A sudden, random, stepdown from 14.4 or 24V to 9V that lasts between seconds and minutes, regardless of camera and unrelated to the power draw sure sounds like an issue with some kind of circuit (or, I suppose, an intermittant connection). I would think that any voltage drop related to wiring gauge would be consistent, except in the case of powering on a new accessory with a high initial draw. Random fluctuations for no apparent reason don't make sense to me as wire-gauge-related. Good luck, hope you track it down quickly.
  14. Does your rig have any voltage regulation circuitry? If so, I'd suspect that. The kind of random fluctuations you describe doesn't sound to me like they are related to wiring gauge.
  15. Sounds like a 5D mark 3 on a Merlin....
  16. I have some of his cables, too. They are great.
  17. Regarding Tiffen's "counterfeit stabilizer" statement on the Steadicam homepage, if you click through on that image, you will read a statement that appears to be narrowly targeted toward trademark infringement from clone stablizers (like those Ebay stabilizers from China and India that were using "Steadicam" branding). I see nothing attacking PRO, XCS or other legit competitors. In fact, in my five years or so on the forum, I don't recall even one instance of Garrett, Jerry, Peter, Dan, Robin, Frank, or anyone else associated with Tiffen making any claims of illegitimacy against these competitors. To the contrary, I have read these gentlemen's statements time and time again praising these competitors for offering high-quality equipment that brings options to the community. In the Tiffen workshop I took, naturally the focus was on Tiffen products, but again I never heard a negative word about the competition.
  18. Just got the Nebtek email. The Sling will work with either Paralinx or Camwave.
  19. From the looks of the Zephyr V, it is a packaging of accessories and factory options that are mostly already available. The tally kit can be factory-installed in existing sleds (requires adding connectors) or ordered with a new sled currently. The "new" return monitor is mounted on an extra monitor mount that you can order, and add your own return monitor (that's what I've done). The only really "new" piece appears to be the return monitor itself.
  20. The dual battery mount on a Flyer is a dummy mount, does not give additional power. It is strictly for extra counterweight. Single mount on the Scout means that you have to extend the post to counterbalance heavier cameras, which is not ideal...especially on the skinny post of smaller rigs like Scout. Zephyr's second battery option provides power as well as mass to the bottom of the sled. The modest increase in weight on the Zephyr vs Scout is weight that is in a range that is significant. In other words, there are a lot of camera packages and accessories that fall in that range between 18-25 pounds. You often don't control the accessories of DP-owned cameras, so the Epic you are asked to fly may have a heavy 19mm baseplate and mattebox, a zoom lens of 5-10 pounds or more, ff receiver/motor, wireless video link, etc. WIth Flyer/Scout, you could be hosed. With Zephyr you are still within tolerence. Also the Zephyr vest is far superior to the Flyer/Scout vest. Used rigs are also a good bet when they offer even larger camera payloads, but you have to know what you want in order to get a good deal.
  21. 18-20 pounds is not enough, practically speaking, for most paying jobs. You may think Epic will fly, but by the time you add a follow focus motor, brackets and receiver, battery, and moderately heavy zoom lens, you are tapped out. Based on e ou need something that will hold at minimum 25lb of camera payload. Zephyr is the least costly rig that will do that. Still, it is limited and not a full "big rig"{ But you could easily outgrow the rig sooner than you think. Many take the used route, which can get complicated fast. There are dozens upon of threads on the forum giving opinions on the options.
  22. I've owned a prototype of this version (with the ENG camera adapter) for several months and it's outstanding for broadcast cameras. Very lightweight, and rock-solid. Thanks, Matthias!
  23. I bought a "Dan Stand" from Norm's Grip. It's a short version of a "beefy baby" that they originally built as a jib arm stand. All steel. I added their wheel set. Works well for me indoors.
  24. Oh, that makes more sense. Do you have the original clamp design? What are you experiencing?
  25. Victor, I'm confused. There's not a single kipp handle on my Zephyr setup....? Do you mean the gimbal clamps?
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