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Mark Karavite

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Posts posted by Mark Karavite

  1. My old 3A had several Bob Derose mods (pre PRO days):

     

    DB1

    Telescoping Post

    2" wrap grip (& shorter one for low mode)

    Dovetail for fore / aft on electronics base

    Battery meter

    Breakers for Camera / Monitor / AKS

    Playback of on board recorder through 3A monitor

     

    That rig was sweet in it's day & was as reliable as any rig I've had. I sold it to a guy in France years ago. I saw it for sale last year (I could recognize the unique package), so it's still out there, which is a testament to Bob's engineering & quality. Though I can't imagine any AC's would be stoked about a Seitz focus unit showing up on set :-).

  2. After going through some old gear in the equipment room, I came across a spare TB-6 rain cover. It was barely used, but I sold my green screen a few years ago.

     

    Any greenscreener who wants it can have it for the cost of shipping. Just send me an email at mkaravite@comcast.net with your address & shipping account (FedEx or UPS), and I'll get it out to you.

     

    Best,

    Mark

  3. Hey Brant,

     

    I agree that trying to run the combo on 1 HC will yield poor run times.

     

    You are smart to run the Codex off the 12v aks port. Both Codex and Otto Nemenz have said the Codex runs best close to 12v. We've considered a voltage regulated cable, but haven't had any problems yet, although I'm powering the Codex from a dedicated HD via the PRO AUX power output.

     

    Overall, having the Codex on the back (as you do) is flying pretty well. I have a nice spin balance, and it behaves well. It is on the heavy side, but flies nicely. With the length, I imagine whip pans will be tricky to get started / stopped, but I haven't run into that yet.

     

    A new quirk we discovered this week. Make sure your AC's check the removable mag & that it is securely docked. We had an issue with a mag not completely docked, but the red "running" light stayed on. Apparently, the red run light triggers when you hit the button, but is not linked to a verifiable link between the Codex and the removable mag. Just to be safe in low mode, we're going to hang the camera from the low mode dovetail now. My DIT had ordered an inverter so I could make switches quicker, but we are abandoning that plan due to the mag docking issue.

     

    Maybe the easiest thing is to switch from "Codex" to "Kodak" :-)).

  4. Hey Sean,

     

    Are you powering 12v into the Anton Bauer plate, or the Arri 2 pin connector? I tried inputting 12v into the Arri 2 pin connector, and no response. That connector seems to only want 24v.

     

    You're right that Alexa alone is OK to run on a single cable from the PRO 12/24 output. According to PRO, that connector is rated at 7 amps. Once you add the Codex to the mix, you are at 9.2 amp draw in 12v, so I wouldn't put that draw though a single 12/24 PRO Lemo. I'd be afraid to fry that connector, like some did with initial Genesis tests on a single output before the Y cable.

     

    That's good info on the Boxx. We're starting with a WEVI, but hoping to switch to the BOXX once we prove the WEVI isn't as good. I would have probably started powering it at 24v, but good to know it prefers 12v. Do you know what the draw is on the BOXX?

  5. Hey Alec,

     

    During prep, I tried the Codex on the bottom & WEVI on the back of the camera. The standard straight ARRI power cable didn't interfere with the WEVI. Maybe other transmitters might get in the way, but WEVI fits.

     

    It's good to be employed, but RED for 9 months, Yikes!! Our 2nd on this show had the idea to start a rumor that Kodak only had a million feet of film left, hoping to spur a rash of film shooting. Not a bad idea :-).

     

    GO RED WINGS!!!

  6. Dear Jason,

     

    I'm afraid I left out a few mods to my rig that allow me to configure the way I did:

     

    - My MK-V base is modified for the 3rd battery to plug directly into the base, and utilize the 2nd power cable up the XCS post, then connected directly to the AUX power connector on the PRO J Box. You are correct that this 12v output is dead while a PRO is in 24v mode, but my sled is different.

    - This mod was initially made for Genesis / F23/F35 Y power cables, because the MK-V Nexus base (while claiming complete PRO compatibility) never powered the AUX power on the PRO J box in any mode.

    - Utilizing 2 power cables up the post will increase my run times by essentially doubling the gauge of wire carrying power, therefore decreasing voltage drop.

     

    Some things to consider on your setup:

     

    - You are smart to power the Codex from the 2 pin 12v accessory power on the Alexa. That connector is rated at 2.2amps total. At 25w draw in 12v, the Codex will draw 2 amps, so you are close, but within the limit.

    - If you find you overdraw that 12v output, you could use a spare PRO 3 pin camera power output, but that cable would need to be voltage regulated to 12v because you are in 24v mode. This might be a nice backup cable to have Terry make for you.

    - You mentioned the Alexa will not run on 12v. Are you aware that the only way to input 12v to Alexa is through the Anton Bauer battery plate? With that said, combining Alexa and Codex in 12v mode will draw 9.2 amps on a PRO connector rated at 7 amps, so don't do that as you would burn up your PRO lemo.

    - I don't own a PRO battery base, but I believe the only way you can run 24v is by utilizing 2 batteries. Your comment about 1 battery running Alexa & Codex does not make sense to me, as you need 2 batteries combined to make 24v. Are you running your Canatrans off the video / power output on your Upper J Box? If so, then technically you have 2 batteries combined in 24v mode to run Alexa, Codex & Canatrans.

    - Having 2 batteries running the camera will give you better run times. I did a TV movie with Alexa to SxS cards. We tried using a single Dionic for some handheld work, and had unacceptable run times from 1 battery. Add the Codex to the mix, and you'd be changing batteries all day long.

     

    BTW, don't worry about offending anyone. It's the sharing of knowledge and experiences that makes this forum so great. With new hardware coming out quickly, posts like Neal's and Dave's were instrumental in me finding a very workable solution for my show. I didn't rig my sled exactly like they did, and you probably won't rig it like I did, but we're all learning from each other. Once we get it all figured out, the hardware will change, and we'll be back here figuring it out again.

     

    Good luck,

    Mark

  7. We've prepped for our show starting Monday & here's some observations regarding the Alexa / Codex combo:

     

    Hardware in setup:

    Alexa

    Master Primes

    Codex

    Cinetape

    WEVI HD Transmitter (hoping to switch to BOXX or Microlite HD)

    Dionic HC's

     

    Notes:

    - We used a dry Anton Bauer plate to mount Codex directly to AB mount on back of Alexa.

    - I tried mounting the Codex on the bottom, but it was too much bottom weight, forcing the gimbal too low on the post. This setup is a little long, but it was the lesser of 2 evils. I was intrigued with Neal's setup, but I think since my rig is so different, it just didn't work for me.

    - We're powering Alexa off 2 batteries in 24v mode.

    - We're powering Codex from 3rd battery with 12v feed. Note that Codex doesn't react well to more than 25v. If you plan on feeding Codex from a 24v feed from Steadicam (or RS connector on Alexa), you'll need a voltage regulated power cable. My rig with hot batteries starts off at more than 31v, which will give Codex problems.

    - Alexa draw 85w, Codex draw 25w.

    - Alexa accessory power outputs max out at 2.2amps total for both 24v & 12v accessory power. Depending on what your running, powering the Codex from these could max out the accessory power. Also, if you're in 12v mode, the combination of Alexa / Codex would draw around 9.2 amps, which is more than 1 PRO Camera Power lemo is rated for. You'd be OK in 24v mode regarding the PRO connector, but you'd be over the 25v, which Codex can't handle with hot batteries.

    - I use the 3rd battery to power the Codex. It's wired directly to the 2 pin PRO AUX power output. Otto Nemenz made me a couple AUX to Codex power cables.

    - Options for camera start / stop from Preston:

    1. With a SxS card in, you can put the Codex in GPI mode, and a start / stop trigger signal is sent from Alexa via the dual link cables. In this mode, you need an SxS card. Note that if the SxS card fills up, it will also stop the Codex. We adjusted the compression on the SxS cards to increase the run time to match the Codex running time of 32 minutes. We'll reformat the SxS card as part of reloading. It's nice having the run button & lights on the Alexa active. There is a slight delay, with the SxS rolling a beat before the Codex in this mode.

    2. We had a couple cables made from MDR2 to Codex GPI connector. If we decide to drop using the SxS cards, we'll switch to these cables.

    3. Otto has rigged a wifi connection to the Codex. You can control the Codex from a remote. We're not using this for Steadicam, but in studio mode, our DIT uses the wifi remote to check playback at his monitors for the DP.

    - This setup is fairly heavy, but flies nicely.

    - We've ordered an image flip device from Otto, so I'll fly upside down in low mode, making switches much faster. Arri needs to add this for Steadicam & 3D.

    - Our DIT is cool with connecting Clockit boxes, then pulling it, so I don't have to fly that box.

    - DP normally monitors RAW feed with a LUT & video village views REC 709, via 2 cables from camera in studio mode. With only 1 feed from Steadicam, DP will view REC 709. He knows what he is looking at, and doesn't want to confuse video village with a different feed, so RED 709 for everyone in Steadicam mode.

    - I think the combination of Alexa M & Codex would be ideal. It would be nice to take a few pounds off this setup.

    - Keep in mind current Alexa models only have 1 monitor out. I have a SD MK-V monitor, so I run through a Decimator to feed the rig, and the HD SDI loop through feeds the WEVI. If you have an HD sled, you'll need a loop through for the transmitter, or carry a HD DA. The next generation Alexa has 2 monitor outputs.

     

    Here are some pictures:

     

    post-826-0-85351500-1303354156_thumb.jpg

     

    post-826-0-64924800-1303352770_thumb.jpg

     

    post-826-0-36876500-1303354468_thumb.jpg

  8. I've recently upgraded, so selling my trusty Preston HU1 / MDR1. This is my personal equipment, and was never rented out without me. Everything is in great shape. This is a great start to a wireless focus package at an affordable price.

     

    Preston Package includes:

     

    Handset / Transmitter:

     

    HU1 Handset / Microwave Transmitter

    HU1 Spare Antenna

    4 x Focus Marking Rings

    2 x Batteries

    Fast Charger w/ AC cable

     

    MDR1 / Receiver:

     

    MDR1, 3 Channel Motor Driver

    MDR1 Spare Antenna

     

    Camera Cables:

     

    2 x Panavision s/s cable

    1 x Genesis s/s cable

    2 x Arri 24v s/s cable

    1 x Arri 12v s/s cable

    1 x Aaton s/s cable

    1 x Movicam 2 Pin s/s cable

    1 x Sony VTR s/s cable

    1 x RED s/s cable

     

    Pelican 1600 case with custom foam insert for Preston gear.

     

    Asking $4500 for everything.

     

    Please contact me directly with inquiries:

     

    Mark Karavite, SOC

    248-618-9000

    mkaravite@comcast.net

  9. I've been doing Pilates for about 10 years. The more I do it, the better my core / back feels. It has definitely increased my stamina in the sled.

     

    Now if I could just stay away from crafties, I could show off those abs.

  10. BJ & Charles bring up good points. Not every job we do is for the money. I had a similar situation several years ago. A Tier 2 film had, as part of their financing agreement, a deal to only pay scale to all crew (no consideration of Steadicam labor). The DP is a friend, and I wanted to work with him. It was an unbelievably crappy rate, but my agent (same as BJ's) was able to secure a very high weekly rental, plus production rented my 2nd FIZ, Iris Unit, OC 25/75 & slider for rate card (instead of me having to match a 60% discount from a rental house). Overall, I made as much, if not more, than if I had a standard labor rate. In reality, the only person who got shorted was my agent & his 10% on labor, and he structured the deal, and he declined to take a bigger % to make up for it.

     

    Bottom line, sometimes today you have to be creative in your deal, but not risk the future rates for yourself & others. UPM's always talk to each other. If you take a low rate the "no quote" promise is not honored, you could very well be working for that rate for the next year, or longer. Consider the long term financial loss of doing 4 or 5 shows at the crappy rate you agreed to last year. Not an attractive balance sheet.

     

    I have a standard response to the "as used" question when it comes up. Sure, we'll do an "as used" rental, with a guarantied 3 days weekly @ $1200 / day.

  11. Dear Jeff,

     

    Thanks for the heads up. One can debate the rated strength of hardware all day long, but the fact is you ended up with a rig falling into your hands, and that's unsettling to me. I can't count how many times I've walked away from the rig (even a few feet) for a quick discussion while I'm balancing. Not any more! I think my Gorelock / Hill bracket is about 7 years old.

     

    When I build later today for a commercial tonight, I'll heed Eric's advice & check the bolt is tight & apply some locktite. Then off to my machinist the next day off. Is there a harder strength bolt that can replace the current on, or is Jerry's the hardest available?

     

    Are you using Tom Gleason's Hill bracket adapter?

  12. Finally had a chance to look into connecting the heater. It is very simple. We are going to tie into the power from the PRO connector, mount a switch on top of the rear breakout box on back of the monitor, and connect power to pin #15 on the D connector, connect a common ground to pin #14, and it's done.

     

    Simple fix for anyone who owns this monitor. We would have done it yesterday, but I need to grab a switch.

  13. Hey Neal,

     

    Thanks for the photo. I had a couple questions for you:

     

    Anton Bauer Mount:

    - Codex and Arri are trying to discourage us from mounting a AB plate to the Codex. They have said they're not sure the plastic will hold the weight. I've explained that the heaviest AB battery, a Hytron 140 weighs 5.5lbs., while the Codex is 5.7lbs. I have an email into Paul Dudeck to get the exact weight capacity of a AB Gold Mount. It should be fine.

    - Who mounted the AB plate to the Codex? Do you have the specs on the plate used, how attached, etc...

    - Otto Nemenz & Codex are willing to help fabricate something for us.

     

    Battery Run Times:

    - How are you powering the Codex?

    - It looks like you have 3 Dionic 90's. How long are you getting with this setup?

     

    Transmitter:

    - Is that the Transvideo XMitter?

    - Otto has ordered the Microlite HD. Hopefully they'll get it for our show starting mid April. It's supposed to be 1/4 the size with a solid link & adjustable frequency.

     

    I have a MK-V Nexus base, so I can put 4 AB plates on the base. If I mount Codex to the bottom, I would probably put the Codex right under the post, then have 3 HC's running the entire rig. On a previous F35 / SSR job, I mounted the transmitter on the base & ran a lightweight cable to it, and it didn't affect my operating at all. The only inconvenience was pulling the cable to spin balance, then putting it back on.

     

    I'd love to chat in person if you have a minute. Ill try giving you a call this weekend. I'm shooting nights on a commercial, but around during the day.

     

    Thanks,

    Mark

  14. I asked Jurgen from Arri the 12v vs 24v question when he was at Fletcher for an Alexa demo. He concurred that the Alexa is a 24v system, and upconverts 12v inputs to 24v. That's why the RS connectors work with a 12v input. With that said, Jurgen pointed out that the upconverter is so efficient, that there is not an appreciable difference between 12v & 24v inputs when it comes to run times. I also tested the Arri 2 pin power input with a 12v source, and it did not work. The only way to input 12v is through the Anton Bauer plates.

     

    I love the dual battery system on this camera. In studio mode, we always run a battery on the back in combination with a 24v block battery. Theoretically, the camera never has to shut down. Moving on, just pull the block, move the camera and start framing the next shot. Also, gone are the worries if there is another take in the block battery, because of the auto switching to the 12v power source. It is true that the camera gets poor run times with a single Dionic (HC or 90) on the back. For handheld shots, we carry Hytron 140's for single battery work. Not only do the Hytrons give you decent run times, it offsets what is normally a slightly front heavy camera with Master Primes. As Jens points out, a Dionic hot swap rig on the back would achieve the same advantages of the Hytrons.

  15. I'm starting a feature mid April, using Alexa & Codex Onboard recorder. I'm interested to hear how you've configured this combination. I have the option of mounting the Codex on the rear of the Alexa, or possibly on the bottom of my sled. I'm leaning towards the Codex mounting on the rear of the camera body, but would like to hear from someone who has already flown this combination.

     

    Any photos of your setup would be cool.

     

    I've done Alexa shows before, so I'm very familiar with the camera, just not in combination with the Codex.

     

    Thanks,

    Mark

  16. Thanks to Jens contact at Lumavec, Gill responded with the information below. I have yet to make the mod, but the plan is to utilize the seperate 4 pin lemo on the back of the MK-V Hummingbird monitor, and wire it directly to the D connector's pin 14 & 15. I'll make a cable that will either run from my P Tap on my front battery, or possibly from a spare DC output on my lower stage. Either way, this will power the heater only, while the PRO connector will still feed power & video to the monitor.

     

    Mark

     

    FYI, here's the reply from Lumavec:

     

    Hi

    We supply a OEM unit to MK-V who then build it into their housing and

    supply the breakout box on the rear of the unit with the connectors on

    it ie lemo, bnc etc.

    All OEM units supplied to MK-V are supplied with heaters. We do not

    know which connector MK-V wire the heater to.

    The heater is connected to the following pins on the 15way D connector

     

    Pin 14 - negative Pin 15 + positive Hope this clarifies the situation

    Best regards Gill

     

    MD

    Lumavec Ltd

    Stanton House

    Station Road

    Longstanton

    Cambs

    CB24 3DS

    Tel/ 0044 (0) 1954 260595

    www.lumavec.com

    mobile 07785 726810

  17. Hey Jens,

     

    Thanks for the input. I am in the habit of just leaving the monitor on during cold temps. In this particular location, it was extremely cold, 8 degrees F + wind. The monitor worked, but the image degraded more and more as the monitor got colder & colder. MK-V marketed the monitor as having a heater for such conditions, but I guess I never really had it in such extreme conditions to notice a problem. I used to use my greenscreen for exteriors, but sold it last year so I'm 100% LCD now.

     

    I plan on tearing apart the black box you described, but it sure would be nice to have some knowledge of the inner workings, instead of taking time to figure it out with no schematics. MK-V can't (or won't) provide me with schematics for any of their gear I own. I have a really good electronics engineer locally who could fix anything in a minute with the proper road map.

  18. Mikael,

     

    The Phantom flies well on Steadicam. Of course, make sure they have enough Cinemags to handle the day's recording needs. Regarding power, it has a proprietary power cable. It is best to have this cable made for your rig. If you can't then a good backup is to order the mount for an Anton Bauer battery. The Phantom run times are pretty good with a Hytron 140. I know it's a 5.5lb battery, but the camera doesn't weigh that much, so not a deal breaker.

     

    Abel Cine Tech is really a great source for Phantom rentals & accessories like the battery mount. Steve Romano is a great Phantom tech I've used out of New York. Contact me if you need his number.

  19. Just did another Alexa shoot last week. We took a rubber eyepiece off an Arri film camera (honestly I don't know if they grabbed it from a 435 or Arricam) and the issue was still there, but much better. I hope they don't fix this problem with a set screw. With constantly switching diopter between DP's, Directors & mine, a set screw would be a hassle, and a poor fix. Arri has known about this problem since at least October of 2010, but still no fix. Disappointing!

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