Daniel Mimura

Probably a long shot, but it's the kind of thing that someone might have sitting around that wasn't something they currently need, but maybe have sitting around and never got around to selling it. I don't really even need it to work! I just need something with that dovetail (whatever size an original clipper-24 uses) to attach a Ronin 2 battery via Cinemilled's battery mount plate. Thx!

Really? Quincy, do you use a rain cover? Is the problem the touch screen like others are talking about?

I've been using this monitor for about 6 months on my rig. Since I live in Seattle, it's only now getting bright enough to even need to be daylight bright, but I haven't run into any situations that were too tough for it. Keep in mine I am coming from a 700nit analog monitor (the standard one on a Clipper). There is glare (I'm definitely gonna try adding nushield as Joshua mentions), but I've never had any impossible situations. It's a great monitor. I do wish it was waterproof (especially in Seattle), but the Cinetronic is out of my price range for now. I have a rain cover, but the glare is bad. I need to customize a rain cover that uses a flat piece (I have one that fits a smaller monitor and that would work great.) I agree with others that the level doesn't work at all while panning...

On the two separate things I used the F3 on last week, both times we could get HD playback, but we would switch the settings every time... The issue is getting digital and analog working simultaneously. Brian, in the original post, Jess mentions SDI (SD-SDI), not composite. David's comment right under it was about SD-SDI and HD-SDI working simultaneously. Brian, Jess, do either of you know what you did? 3 different ACs, as well as 2 camera techs from the rental house couldn't get it working. I'm going to the rental house next week to try try again, just to figure this out (and figure out why I can't get the SDI on my rig working).

I just used the F3 this past week for the first time. It can do HD-SDI and SD-SDI out simultaniously...but won't do digital and analog out at the same time. The confusion is that SD sounds like analog, and uses the same BNC connector, but SD-SDI, is (as the name implies), a digital signal. It will output analog OR digital...but not both at the same time, and apparently, it's a quirk particular to this camera (that new Canon whatever-300 outputs everything at once, I'm told). At 40 years old, being the 3rd oldest person on set (behind the director and DP), everyone on set was just shocked and appalled that I couldn't give them an HD signal for monitoring. We were fortunately not using S-Log, or it would've been impossible to operate without a downconverter. (My rig should be able to do HD-SDI, but I've been unable to get it working---I had been previously using the analog port, but obviously, I need to get this sorted out.) It's funny what people expect b/c just a few years ago, you couldn't use video taps and monitors for anything but framing and composition and now the AC's are spoiled...getting focus off of the monitor instead of by measuring (during rehearsal---I'm not talking about hunting during the take).

Another thing that will help side to side wobble is to extend the rig as far, fore and aft as you can. And if you're flying smaller lighter cameras, I recommend adding weight fore and after as well---the furthest from the center gives you the best performance for the least amount of weight (spin on a barstool with arms extended, and then do it again with dumbbells and see what I mean). If I'm on a small camera, I have 18" rods extended in front and behind the camera. I mount a V-mount plate and power my FF thru that instead of the rig (also handy to quickly move to sticks and still have FF set up, if you need). I don't know your individual rig, so I don't know if its for big/small/medium cameras...etc...but add this weight if you can. Looking at the footage, I'd venture to guess that you have a death grip on the post. Don't let go of the post...but try doing some moves basically not using that hand at all...just to train your arm hand to carry the heft of it. I strongly 2nd every other operator's comments on taking a workshop, or multiple workshops. I've taken one of steadicam's 3 day ones, but the 6 day one was of incredible value to me. I've only been operating for a year and recently looked back at footage from my first workshop. Your stuff looks great compared to that! Keep working at it. It will take a lot of work and a lot more money on various accessories, but it starts to click after awhile. I already can't really use things on my reel from a few months ago b/c I feel it's not good enough...in fact, I experience the same phenomenon every few months.

Found one. Thanks, all.

I'm looking for a BFD, or the newer Digital model. Preferably a complete system, with an M-One or Heden, but I'll put it together one piece at a time, if necessary...

I just had a 7D shoot sunday as well... I've been having problems with my main monitor (a Tiffen SD 7") and I knew it would be a 7D shoot so I bought a $300 LCD monitor from LCD4Video. It worked out great. http://www.lcd4video.com/products/LCD4Video-7%22-HD-PRO-LCD-Monitor-w%7B47%7D-Internal-Battery%2C-HDMI-%26-Composite-RGB-Inputs.html It has composite/component bnc as well as HDMI. Honestly, since it's a cheaper monitor with HDMI and the same 7" size, I didn't need a converter box and still have HD, so for DSLR shoots, I will be using this in the future even after I get my Tiffen monitor repaired b/c I have HD. There are battery options for it---plus it has a battery inside that is supposed to last 1.5hrs, although I never used the battery. I used a lemo to...whatever it is...it's a standard power supply like older cellphones or consumer electronics. Instead of altering the brackets, I just used the tiffen bracket with the monitor removed and covered the thing in velcro. It's 450cd/m (which I believe is synonymous with nits)...I don't know how it does in daylight yet b/c "daylight" in Seattle won't happen for another month or two! It seems decently bright though.

RAOTFLACP (Rolling Around On The Floor Like A Crazy Person). That's great and all for small rigs, but I guess you'd need an emu or ostrich to fly the larger cameras...

Another thing that makes it seem like the Flyer will be discontinued is that what was formerly called the "Flyer/Pilot" workshops are now being called the Zephyr/Pilot workshops.

I know this is an old thread, but to anyone interested, in the past couple days, Tiffen (finally!) posted the Zephyr price list on their website. http://www.steadicam.com/userimages/Zephyr%20ListPL_9610.pdf I got to use one of the prototypes at a recent Steadicam workshop in Austin...I'm a noob, but I really liked this rig.