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Bryan, I`m useing Ted Churchill design monitor bracket - seems to work great so far. Also the cable connector that you are looking for is HR10-7P-6P 6-pin male Hirose plug. In my monitor I do have Hirose connector as well, so I`m only useing one cable to connect my CRT with the EFP. You can do the cable that will suit your needs with no problem at all. If you would require pin-outs for EFP connectors just let me know. Good luck!

I wonder if any of you have been useing similar devices to record your shoots? Are they any good? Seems to be the best alternative. Can be used as a 2nd monitor for Don Juan. Price seems to be quite fair.

I`m curius of that either. I have created my login before I realized it should be my real name. I wouldn`t like to create new account but to keep the one with a history of posts. Can this be done? Thanks, Marcin Brauer

You are 100% right David, I was refering to page no. 2 it has this "13" number on the right side and I was to tired to make sure that this is actually a page number :) Sorry for that. About makeing the board. Yes that is possible. The trick is to unmount the potentiometer from the monitor board then make a new board with two potentiometers of that same kind and a switch and simply connect it to the monitor board via cables. Then the only thing needed to be done is to set the correct aspec ratio (screen height) on both potentiometers. Marcin

I think I`ve found the reason why the motor wouldn`t stop. The potentiometer that reports the position is broken. I will try to find replacement a then test the unit. Anyway, I would still like to get in touch with someone with the same setup :) UPDATE: I connected another 10kΩ potentiometer that I found in my junk (unfortunatly not the same dimentions - so I still need to order replacement), and the motor is working correctly.

I have recived today a lens motor that I bought on eBay. It is a CP/Heden hybrid. It seems to have an amplifyier on board so I was trying to connect it directly to my reciver. Unfortunatly the engine keeps turning all the time. I would try to connect it to amplifier but I don`t have 4-pin lemo to 5-pin lemo (thi is the connector on the amp) cable. Also I could try to connect the engine itself to the amp but again I don`t have 2-pin lemo to 5-pin lemo cable as well. So I would like to ask if any of you have the same kind of setup running, and if so how sould I connect it to work? Or the other thing that would be very appreciated is a lemo connector description for 5pin connector. That way I would be able to do the cables myself. BTW: I have a M28VP running with this FF system - so there are no problems with the reciver/amp/sender. Thanks, Marcin

Gus, You can find it here: OnLine Shop Producer You can contact them at klixon@ti.com Ask them for the price - maybe it will be cheaper to order a lot - let say 10 of them. I think that there won`t be a problem of finding here people that would like some. I would for sure - I have an EFP running but it would be nice to have a back-up. Let us know, Marcin

Hi Alec, I guess that is based on the technology that Samsung was planning to explore after finnishing improvments with OLED displays. Samsung FED If it will be what they say it would, than we shall soon be able to forget about monitor hoods on ours rigs ;) Marcin

Hi Chip, Would it be possible for you to scan the EFP manual into PDF (jpeg - or whatever other eletronic format) and share it with us (2nd hand EFP owners)? I think we all will be VERY garatefull :) Thanks, Marcin

Doug, I guess that depends on the equipment that you`r flying. I have an EFP rig, and the sled is perfectly align thanks to a hole along telescopic post which is engage by a screw placed in a clamp in the gimbal-section post. I don`t know if you could understand the above, but when I be back from Dennmark on Friday I can put a photo for you if you like. Cheers! Marcin

Bryan, You can adjust this monitor to 16:9 by turning VR12 potentiometer (see page 13 of Service Manual ) Before you do that equipt your self with a plastic screwdriver (plastic tip that is) - no to cause a shot circut. If you feel unconfortable with this operation than ask some friendly eletronic guy to do it for you. What you need to do is take your camera and a piece of paper with either circle or some rectangles. Make the camera film (in 16:9 mode) the piece of paper - conect it to the monitor and adjust this VR12 screw to get the picture right. Good luck, Marcin

Hi Bryan, I don`t know this monitor to tell you which knob exacly you need to turn to adjust to 16:9. I will try to get in touch with a person who has helped me with my monitor settings - may be he will be able to send you some details regarding switching to 16:9. Best regards, Marcin

Hi, Ussualy when you connect PAL signal to NTSC monitor the picture is being displayed OK. It is different when it is NTSC signal to PAL monitor - then the picture is "jumping". - that is based on my experience. Anyway every monitor/tv has a knob inside to regulate vertical synchro - usually the potentiometer described as V-HOLD. This is how you can adjust PAL/NTSC signal (framerate). Hope this helps, Marcin

Hi Bryan, I`m owning an EFP with a 4:3 monitor (Chrosziel), and when I`m shooting 16:9 the only thing I need to do is to turn V-PHASE potentiometer or whatever that is called. So if you want to save money - what is generally desireable in our profesion - tell me what model of monitor do you have and maybe I would be able to tell you exacly what you need to do :) b.r. Marcin

Thanks Jim - make sens NP`s are very cheap. All in all, I`m thinking of changing batery system on my rig. I`m curently useing PAGlok with brick battery, but they are very expensive and I can`t do much with only two bricks. And buying new battery is just crazy. I could easly do 4-5 battery packs from modellers power cells - high-cap NiCd... More I`m getting into this stuff, more I think that all I`m paying is the brand... but hey, that`s the way it is, all a ned to do is accept the fact :/