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Found 6 results

  1. Hi there! As I had the opportunity to borrow a friend's rig, I recently started to operate heavier cameras after learning to operate with lightweight setups (FS5 etc.). Now I have some kind of a noob struggle: I have no problem putting the rig in static balance. However, I find it very hard to balance it dynamically. As the guidebooks and tutorials advise, a good start for dynamic balance would be to put the camera’s CG a tiny bit behind the central post. But by doing so, I cannot put the rig in static balance any longer, as the batteries at the back of the bottom stage are way heavier than my monitor. Also, I cannot move my monitor uphill in order to get a better look at it or to balance the rig dynamically, because I need the weight at the bottom to get it statically balanced. Have any of you had this problem too? I cannot reduce my batteries’ weight, I need them for my static balance. And I already attached the heaviest V-Mount battery to my monitor to bring it back to balance. Still, the monitor is way too light… I don’t want to extend my post too much (that way I could get rid of one battery on the battery hanger)… Any advice from a pro?
  2. Hey folks, I've never been able to achieve proper dynamic balance with my sled before (Zephyr). I've operated a fellow op's rig (Shadow) and achieved DB in less about 3-4minutes. So as far as I can tell it might be a problem with my kit. Does my gimbal need to be centred? If so, does anyone have instructions on how to do this? I've noticed that my Zephyr gimbal has some play in it and wondering if this is a culprit... 1. As I shift the yoke side to side I can feel there is about 1mm of play there. 2. As I push the handle in to out there is about 2mm of play here. Is this normal gimbal behaviour? See videos attached. _A.mp4 _B.mp4
  3. Hey everyone, I've become increasingly frustrated at myself for not being able to achieve dynamic balance with a Flyer LE rig. For a while I assumed it was just impossible due to the battery mount being a 'swivelling paddle' rather than something that can slide fore and aft. However I went back and checked out the manual and sure enough, it states that it can be done by rotating that battery 'paddle' up and down. In theory I think I can understand how this is supposed to work however due to the rotating plate every time I shift the batteries 'in or out' and adjust the camera's for-aft, it also affects the bottom-heaviness of the whole rig and seems to throw things way out of whack again. I suppose I am seeking any advice from those of you who have achieved dynamic balance with a Flyer LE. I am losing confidence every time I attempt dynamic balance. Is it worth trying to refine my technique or should I just settle for static balance and wait until I can upgrade to a bigger rig? Thank you in advance for your response. Cheers, Sam.
  4. Heads up: quick (and clear) little video on dynamic balance by Chris Fawcett:
  5. Hi Guys, I work as a 1st with the same Operator and we've noticed a problem has developed in obtaining a Dynamic Balance, would love to know if anyone has experienced or heard of this before, and open for all suggestions to fix. After a buy the book setup is complete, achieving good monitor position, drop time and Static Balance we then proceed to spin and/or drop the camera side on to test for dynamic balance. Once the Dynamic balance has been achieved, the camera will always rest in tilting up position. So we Re-Static Balance the camera which in turn always creates a monitor(fore) heavy Dynamic Balance. No matter what combination of battery in, monitor out, camera forward or back, drop time, etc.. you can only obtain a good Static balance with a monitor(fore) heavy dynamic balance OR a good Dynamic balance with the camera resting in a tilted up position. Interestingly the tilted position seems to be fairly consistent without putting an inclinometer on it. Also we have tuned the gimbal to take this out of the equation. Thanks Steve
  6. Just a tip for Zephyr owners who are not using the bottom 1/4"x20 battery/accessory mount and who want to try the "Mickey" / 90 degree dynamic balancing method for getting the bottom half of the rig balanced: Turns out the 1/4"x20 tap is coincident to the axis of the post (thanks Tiffen engineering!). A short 1" or so 1/4x20 screw, bearing with 1/4" internal diameter, and a nut allows you to "do the Mickey" incredibly easily. The Zephyr lower post isn't round, so the external roller method isn't going to work... Just screw 'em in there, and hold the post up by the bearing at 90 degrees as mentioned elsewhere. Top stage empty and centered. Spin, adjust, add weights as necessary. Works like a charm! Apologies if this is mentioned elsewhere... and not sure if other sleds have this particular mounting location as well. -Chris
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