Moderators Alec Jarnagin SOC Posted September 11, 2012 Moderators Report Share Posted September 11, 2012 ...burp Castle.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members RonBaldwin Posted September 12, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 ...burp Castle.... Sweet opera singing fabulousness! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Alan Rencher Posted September 12, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 If you haven't already, pick up the Steadicam Operator's Handbook. It goes in-depth about dynamic Balancing. This quickest thing I can tell you to start with would be to put the camera's CG over the rear of the post, then adjust your counter balance (most likely your batteries) to give you a static balance. Spin the rig. If you haven't achieved dynamic balance, try moving your camera forward or back, and move your counterweight in the opposite to get back to dynamic balance. Is it better or worse? If it's better keep moving everything in the same direction. If it's worse, move them the opposite direction. Also, make sure that you've spread your side to side weight pretty evenly, and that you don't have any loose items that move on their own. It's all in the handbook, and it's a lot more in depth. And I and quite a few others will not only tell you but prove to you empirically that the book is wrong. Do a search on 90 degree test it will explain how to EASILY achieve dynamic balance I use the method that I described above, and I usually attain dynamic balance in minute or two. Just sayin'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Eric Fletcher S.O.C. Posted September 12, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 12, 2012 I use the method that I described above, and I usually attain dynamic balance in minute or two. Just sayin'. And with my method it literally takes 30 seconds the first time you do it(When you buy the rig) and precisely ZERO seconds thereafter no matter what camera I put on the rig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Alan Rencher Posted September 15, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 I use the method that I described above, and I usually attain dynamic balance in minute or two. Just sayin'. And with my method it literally takes 30 seconds the first time you do it(When you buy the rig) and precisely ZERO seconds thereafter no matter what camera I put on the rig. I must say, I looked up your method, and I'm going to give it a shot. It seems easy. You can't say that the other method is wrong though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members RonBaldwin Posted September 15, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted September 15, 2012 I must say, I looked up your method, and I'm going to give it a shot. It seems easy. You can't say that the other method is wrong though. be careful...wear protection when using Eric's method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher Smith Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Update: I got the book and stripped my rig all the way down and started over. I was not able to achieve dynamic balance but I did get a better static balance and set up my arm and vest better. The rig behaves so much better than before. I feel more comfortable with it and can focus more on technique. Has anyone else successfully achieved dynamic balance with the Scout? There seem to be less options for positioning things than with the higher end rigs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Andy Schwartz Posted October 28, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted October 28, 2012 Hey Christopher I was teaching at the SOA workshops a few weeks back with Jerry and crew, and there was a scout there, and someone had a canon 7d that we put on the rig with a lighter weight plate. I was able to get it into dynamic balance fairly quick, so it is totally possible. I would advise to set you monitor out all the way, then put everything on your camera then find the center of gravity, put a mark on the spot, and then line that up with the rear side of the post or maybe a little behind the post a half inch or so, then static balance by either moving your batteries or adding the weights. If it does not spin flat move the batts in or out, then move the camera a little to regain your static balance then spin. It should be a quick thing to do regardless of what method you use, but I use the method that jerry teaches, and have for years, and it works for me the best. Once you get a handle on it, it will come quicker, and the more you see the similar camera setups on your rig you will have some idea where things need to be. good luck andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher Smith Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Hey Christopher I was teaching at the SOA workshops a few weeks back with Jerry and crew, and there was a scout there, and someone had a canon 7d that we put on the rig with a lighter weight plate. I was able to get it into dynamic balance fairly quick, so it is totally possible. I would advise to set you monitor out all the way, then put everything on your camera then find the center of gravity, put a mark on the spot, and then line that up with the rear side of the post or maybe a little behind the post a half inch or so, then static balance by either moving your batteries or adding the weights. If it does not spin flat move the batts in or out, then move the camera a little to regain your static balance then spin. It should be a quick thing to do regardless of what method you use, but I use the method that jerry teaches, and have for years, and it works for me the best. Once you get a handle on it, it will come quicker, and the more you see the similar camera setups on your rig you will have some idea where things need to be. good luck andy Thanks Andy. I have followed those steps. With my camera (JVC GY-790)set with center of gravity at the back of the post, the only way I can get static balance is to slide the bottom horizontal rod (the one the batter clips on)all the way forward). I then put 4 weights on the front and none on the back. Once I do this, I can't move my battery. This seems to be the only way I can achieve static balance with the CG at the back of the post. I can't see any other options to tweak in order to give me ability to get into dynamic balance. The cool thing though is that the rig is behaving way better than before. I can actually let go of the sled with my left hand (gimbal hand) and the sled stays perfectly level. Before I had to constantly fight to keep it level and it seems to always move a bit when statically balancing. I guess I'll start trying some other weight combos to see if I can get a good static and dynamic balance. Thanks for your advice. -crhis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher Smith Posted October 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Oh and I tried putting my Sony NX5U on and could not get my arm to set right to handle the lower weight. What do I need to do to be able to add more weight to the top of the sled for smaller cameras? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Andy Schwartz Posted October 29, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 hey man if you are sliding your batts all the way in under the camera, i would say that maybe you should add some weight to the monitor and remove any weight off the rear of the camera if you have anything, like a battery. strip the viewfinder off if you can as well, why not. maybe use a heavier battery on the bottom of the sled if you can, so you do not have to slide the rear side all the way in under the post. if the batts tilt, tilt it down to get the weight lower and it will act heavier. if you can extend the monitor out and add weight that would definitely be good most likely. any of these options will give you some play in the movement of the batteries which is good. it just sounds like the center of gravity on your camera is pretty far back on the camera, so either add some weight to the camera in front, remove from the back or on the bottom, same thing. that will help give you some room to move batts around. the scout is a little tricky to dynamic because of the more minimal movement in and out of the batts and monitor, but it is possible. so just work on it. when i first started i added a cardellini clamp on my batts one day to add a little extra i needed. not ideal but it was nice to get it right and learn how it all works. as far as using a light camera on the sled, like the little sony, you need to get some sort of weighted addition, most folks use a weight plate or cage. you can get in touch with janice arthur about getting one, very handy and great to have for the days when people are shooting on lightweight dslr, or similar, or you want to practice. good luck dude andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Andy Schwartz Posted October 29, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 hey someone just posted a cage for sale in the marketplace. love the forum. a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Eric Fletcher S.O.C. Posted October 29, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Chris, search for my method of Dynamic Balance. Works every time on ANY rig and best of all you do it ONCE and you're done forever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Jerry Holway Posted October 29, 2012 Premium Members Report Share Posted October 29, 2012 Chris- All methods for dynamic balance "work forever" regardless of the camera as long as the monitor and battery positions don't change, and no additional weights/accessories/etc., are added to the monitor or battery. Search carefully for Eric's method, because there are two methods described and one is a complete waste of time. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christopher Smith Posted November 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 Update: Thanks for the help everyone. After a lot of trial and error I was finally able to achieve dynamic balance. But to do this I had to move my camera's CG to mid post instead of the back of the post. I tried all sorts of combos of weight and shifting with the CG at the back of the post and it just wasn't working. I was having to move my battery all the way to the post which left me with few options for tweaking. So, are there exceptions to the rule that you have to have the CG 1/4 inch from post center? In my case moving the CG forward worked. Has anyone else done this in certain situations in the field? -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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