i posted earlier about a separate issue with my G-50x arm, which was solved, but now I’m back with a new problem.

I recently flew a light build (fx6) no problem. Then on the next job I had an Alexa LF. So I figured I’d need to adjust my lift to compensate for the added weight. I balanced the rig, then loaded it up on my arm. I was able to boom my arm to the appropriate position to adjust the forearm section no problem. Then I went to adjust the upper arm section’s lift and the knob won’t budget at all, no matter what level I’m boomed to. I even attempted to grease it a bit with the Tiffen-recommended Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. No luck.

Does anyone have any suggestions, short of sending it in? 
 

I attached photos. Try to ignore my sloppy grease-work.

Recently my G-50x arm has been "popping" in the first arm segment when I boom up and down. Not really sure why. I attached a video where you can see the second segment booms smoothly but the first (the closer one) will almost pop up or down in the direction I'm booming. Ride and lift adjustments don't seem to affect it. I also checked the turret screw beneath the lift knob (I saw that some people on here suggested that as the problem for others), but that doesn't seem to be the issue either. Does anyone know what it might be? Hopefully something I can fix on my end and not have to send it in.

Thanks!

I've found latex rubber to be quite a breakthrough upgrade compare to all spring arms and here are my findings below. 

I've sold my pro arm and used the same amount of money to get a g70x and NB arm thinking I would use g70x indoor and NB arm outdoor. With a thought that NB arm has sealed bearings and I could treat it like trash. But now I don't even pullout g70x anymore.

I've used PRO arm exclusively for 8 full years, working 12 month a year, been through all senarios, fast and slow. No budget student folms to $40 mil USD budget. Was prasing pro equipment cuz "all feature guys uses PRO" kinda fan boy mindset , pretty similar to the panavision fanboys. But eventually as years gone by I've developed critical thinking and below are a couple points why I prefer NB over the other arms.

1. Sweet spot.
As an somewhat experienced op you might have noticed pro arm is only truly good at the middle 10% of boom range, and you tune the arm up or down offset this spot based on the height of the shot required. Part of the reason people need to get XCS mid arm swivel. But g70x is better here since it could support your lens height with the ISO adjustment. NB arm or X arm is the same ish feeling with pro. Meaning force required to hold the lens height But is better at the job due to less friction and rubber vs spring nature. More to elaborate below

2. Boom range . Pro arm has 60cm. And NB has 83cm. As an average 176cm/5"10 Asian male I have no monkey arms. But I still run out of boom range on pro arm quite often. I've bought the IBaird / mid arm swivel / Klassen vest that offers a shit load of range options to counter this issue but I still wish the pro has more in the first place. Like from standing to seating. I always bottom out on pro arm, or I'm too low at standing. NB arm on the other hand. Offers just enough. Alrhough it's not as effortless to hold camera height on both extreme side of the range, but none of the other arms does. Good thing is that U can't bottom out the NB like pro. And u can't hit the eng stop easily. So even if you use your finger tips to get the camera height there, u still can't hit the stop when u take a step. Side note, G70x is only iso in the middle 60%. Outside that you are fighting the same as all other arms.

3. Friction. All spring arms including g70x and pro have more frictions than rubber arms like xarm or NB. For pro, the each canister has two "ears" that cling and hinges on a groove on the chassis. And no matter how u deny it. It's not as smooth compare to NB or x arm, especially both of them has sealed bearings and rubber bands. This helps emensively at ultra slow movements, so slow that the shot shouldve been done on a slider. But they have to put you on steadicam cuz it "saves time". I'm not as vocal as a lot of operators out there. Mostly just nod my head and do it. So rubber arms help a shit ton here. There are countless times when I have to manually hold the sled in the same height countering the up and down from the pro arm. It's very minor, and I have to walk so perfectly. It's doable. But not everyday with every senario. If there is even a bit of terian and you aren't feeling it that day. You are mostly screwed. Still end up with a ok ish shot, but not good enough to be called "bleeding dolly". So having a rubber arm here helps sooo much. Even g70x is better than pro due to the iso adjustments

4. Maintainence. I know guys would argue how you can water hose pro arm to clean. But NB arm is the next level. I don't even cover that arm in rain, it's fully sealed and u don't need give a damn about rubber bands. White lithium grease ? Why the hell you need that! I know a lot of you will argue how robust and solid the pro arm build is. Now look below for the trade off. Also by the way the robustness has nothing to do with the shot. So to me, it's useless feature.

5. Weight savings. Pro arm is 6kg/13lbs or so when I measured it with mid arm swivel and solid xcs post. While NB is at 3kg. This is almost the weight difference between Alexa mini and Alexa LF. And at times when u can't trim the sled down like Alexa 65. This becomes a huge deal to prolong your career and health. I know people would say "man up", but we are like atheles. We all have performance peak years and slope down since. So The more we can preserve the years the better. And hopefully have a healthy body to enjoy retirement life too.
And this was the major tipping point for me to purchase an NB arm. But the performance of it blew my mind.

6. Tooless adjustments. NB arm uses latex rubber bands. I mainly just put 4-6 on my wrists as bracelet. And that's enough of a difference between a prime and a heavy zoom. I can do it on a fly. Without trying to find the hole on canisters like the pro arm. And since it's quite forgiving for filters and different primes. I dont even bother to add/remove the bands. It's quite fast.

7. Less parts. I was debating between x arm and NB arm when I was trying to get rid of the pro arm. But x arm is still 4.5kg while NB is 3kg. And NB has no cores to swap. And no spray needed to maintain the rubber bands like the x arm. And no wrench needed to tune the lift. And no rain over needed to work outside. For those who is wondering tension loss in cold, who cares. I just put on more bands.

8. Minimum weight requirement. I know pro has advised the minium is 13lbs with two blues only and NB is at 0. Also no sled is lighter than that. My argument here is , you don't have to know the approx weight of the sled to put the appropriate set of canisters. I've gone lazy through out the years and just settled with 2 blue and 2 black on pro arm. And just put more batteries on the sled to come up with the minimum. But there are times I wish I have all the adjustability without messing with canisters. Since bottoming out and fully loaded takes like 50 turns on each and it's quite some work to find the right fit between jobs or between prime / heavy zooms. The g70x and NB arm is simple as hell in comparison and I can do the best sled build always without worrying about canister combos. Or how ISO the arm is when canisters are fully loaded than minimum

There is one thing pro arm is at best where all others are bad. that is the arm post spin feature. Pro is by far the most silkly smooth one while g70x is basically Fisher Price trash. NB has got some friction to it but it's usable. So if u fold in your gimbal handle more frequent than anything then no other arm is for you.

I know many, if not all of you have witnessed the failing of the socket block on NB arm @cinegear quite a few years ago. And has been laughing at their quality. But the manufacture has fixed the issue and demoed the new design with Max load at worse senario and it helds. They deserve a chance, they always response to my emails in a matter of mins, and answers all my idiotic questions. That's way better than a lot of brands out there. And that includes weekend too which amazes me.

Hope this sort of sums the majority of my reason of switch. It is quite seamless to switch from PRO, and no one has gone back the other way around. I'm not gonna use the big op names to convince you guys here. Cuz I fell for this "woo this big op uses this and it must be good" crap when I got the pro arm. But I'm More than happy to answer PM if you are more curious

Even more "impressive" — They received a warm welcome from ARRI — the very company expected to lead with integrity and promote real innovation. ARRI was fully aware of the situation, yet chose to ignore our emails — as well as ongoing inquiries from other operators seeking clarity. They had every opportunity to take a principled stand, but instead, they chose to support imitation over originality.

Ethics, apparently, are optional these days.

So, to respond to this little alliance of originality-challenged minds, 
We’re giving 50% off the NB ARM — used for over 13 years in the biggest productions, trusted by the best Steadicam operators in the industry worldwide, and built on real innovation. 

We have published this theft in the past week on our social media and the amount of support we’ve received has been incredible — from customers, colleagues, and even operators we’ve never met, but who clearly see what’s going on. 

It reminds us that values like integrity, ethics, and respect for one’s hard work still matter and exist.

Please don’t stop standing up for what’s right. We deeply appreciate each and every one of you.

‏To claim your discount on the original reliable NB ARM, simply type: ‘dontcopy’ in the promo code box at checkout on our website. Promo code will be valid till the end of the current stock. Due to high volume of orders, new orders require up to two weeks to be processed and shipped. 

Stay original.
 

Thanks!

This particular arm has been serviced and taken great care of by Hugo at Steadirig in Australia. 

Open to offers, but looking for $6,200.00, buyer pays shipping. 

Thanks!

including:

- ARRI ARTEMIS CARBON SPRING ARM 26kg/57.3lb

- ARTEMIS ARM SOFT BAG

- Hex Key 6mm/1.4in

- Hex Key 4mm/5.32in

- ARTEMIS RAIN COVER SPRING ARM

price $10.500 excl. shipping

located in Berlin

email: stephan.buske@tw-pictures.de

Hope all is well with everyone.

Quick question, I have completely stripped one of my grub screws for my EFP arm. They are the grub screws that hold in the rods on the hinge which links the 2 parts of the arm. I have searched high and low and asked many a store but they cannot seem to help me. Would anyone in here know the size of these? Below are some pictures of what I'm meaning if it's not clear.

Many thanks 

Todd Pacey

IMG_0785.HEIC IMG_0787.heic IMG_0792.HEIC IMG_0793.HEIC IMG_0795.HEIC

Im upgrading my archer 2se to a volt system and I have always been happy with my g50 arm.

would like some opinions if I should upgrade my g50 to a g50x

thank you 

While servicing my arm the the other day, and unfortunately one of my bone bearings fell apart. I assume there must have been a damaged roller or something in the bearing. Or I damaged it while cleaning. 

Anyways I am wondering if anyone knows the type of bearing these are (please see pictures). I'm been looking online but as you can imagine there are a lot of bearing out there. 

Also any recommendations on a small bearing press would be appreciated. 

Many thanks

Todd Pacey.

www.toddpacey.com 

IMG_7763.HEIC IMG_7765.HEIC

I run an MK-V on a G-70 arm with a Walter Klassen vest and the other day the spring connecting my socket block to the kickback link broke so it no longer forces the arm back to my body. I actually like it better without the spring there as with it, the arm sometimes smacks into my latches on the vest. Does anyone actually run the arm without that spring in it? Do I need to replace it? Will not having it cause more stress on the socket block or the connector pin?