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Anton/Bauer battery LCD showing single bar across middle of screen

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I'm happy to hear that these diodes are not making any problems, although they are, imho, a bit under-rated on the voltage, specially if using Li-Ion batteries.

The pdf mentioned above states a max.15V diode. I would change that for a slightly higher rated diode, up to 25-30 volts:

 

http://www.ic-on-line.cn/IOL/datasheet/dss...25b_1184560.pdf

 

same housing and dimensions, higher ratings on volts and amps, it has a small increase in lost voltage (0.07 volts) but that is not of any concern.

 

But I have been using diodes since years now, I though even that it was common practice with multiple battery/voltage rigs. It should be build in the rig, I think.

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I was asked to post this info about the Sachtler Artemis Systems . The info comes from Len Donovan and Curt Schaller

 

Regards,

Adam

 

 

Dear all,

 

The way I designed the internal wiring of the Artemis rigs is focusing on; good and save battery handlind and also perfect control about capacity and max run time.

 

Also flexible the use and the positioning of batteries for a perfect balance is a main part of the way the batteries are used and the way they way the rigs are wired.

 

The artemis rigs in general following two directions:

 

 

 

Cine HD, Cine and EFP Pro:

 

This rigs working with separated power lines and 2 or 3 batteries.

 

Because this rigs working with separated power lines, in 12V mode, minimum two batteries have to be used with this artemis rigs.

 

There is one power line only for camera power, focus power and aux power, the so called "A-Bat"

 

and the second power line is doing monitor power and video power, the so called "B-Bat".

 

So in this set-up both batteries are separated anyway.

 

There is a third battery, the so called "C-Bat" wich can back-up the "B-bat" or video power line. If the the "C-Bat" is activated the "B-Bat" will be switched off.

 

Again the batteries are not meeting each other in any way.

 

In 24V mode the so called "A" and "B" will come together, for 24V camera power supply.

 

The "C-Bat" will do now the monitor power and video power.

 

So again video and camera power supply is not connected at all.

 

Beside separating the batteries, we are using Diodes to make sure that, batteries are not connected to each other, that they are not charging or discharging each other

 

and that also the ground of older video assist in 24V mode will not be connected to the video ground of the monitor signal.

 

 

 

EFP:

 

The EFP is only working in 12 V and can be used with one or two batteries.

 

Between the batteries there are Diodes used to protect the batteries from charging or discharging.

 

So even in the EFP, the batteries are separated.

 

 

 

EFP HD SE:

 

The new EFP HD SE is using a new developed high capacity internal wiring and power management.

 

The rig is designed for 15 Amps permanent power consumption with only 4% voltage drop, what is extrem low.

 

The EFP HD SE is a 12V unit, which can be used with one or two batteries.

 

A circuit board is taking care about "hot swap" and two batteries use.

 

The board is designed and manufactured by Anton Bauer.

 

 

 

 

 

The attached drawing showing the possibilities of mixing batteries using a EFP Pro HD SDI. So different batteries with different weights and run times can be placed to get max performance and a perfect balance.

 

I hope this is answering your questions :-)

 

Curt

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Alrighty, I'm gonna have to admit some ignorance. Now, I could have simply asked, "What the f*ck is a diode" but I went out there on the internets and did me some research. I figure I'm about 10% of the way there. Apparently, there's lots and lots of diode types... Who knew? I know I could probably take my rig in some where and have an expert do their thing, but soldering is easy and fun! Besides, I figure I've got about a 50% chance of installing it correctly, and I like those odds! If it's any thing like wiring a home-made dimmer backwards, I'm in for a treat. Could someone shed some light as to the kind of diode to look out for? I've eliminated "Light Emitting", but that's about it. I did try Radio Shack, but these days all they offer are shitty radios and a lazy pregnant lady who made it quite clear her Blackberry was much more important than my questions...

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What you need is a Schottky Rectifier Diode, it prevents current from traveling in the wrong direction.

 

Rob, I'm assuming that after a while of successful operation with my Li-ion Batts that the Diodes I'm using are sufficient. Either they have enough headroom or it's because the batts fall below 15V as soon as they are under any load. At any rate they do the trick nicely.

 

IB

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cool, thanks! I thought that was like a brand name or something in the earlier PDF. Will this one work?

http://www.onsemi.com/pub_link/Collateral/MBR7030WT-D.PDF I picked that one cause of voltage...

Will I fry anything if I wire it in backward, or will it just not work until I rewire it?

 

 

 

*Crap... I just noticed they only sell in packages of 30... Well, that gives me 30 chances to fuck it up...

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Alrighty, I did it! I used a 25 amp 45 watt Shottky diode... Thanks for the clarification. Here's how I soldered it up, this is before I insulated the wires

paininthediode.jpg

and an hour later, nothing has exploded

diode2.jpg

and no blinking lines...

So, I've got 27 more of these things, they were like $1.25 each, I had to buy 30... I would have had 28, but I had to melt one to see what was inside. So I'll totally install one of these for you for a nominal fee of $11,000.

Or if you want one and you're in the LA area, I'll just give you one, just let me know... I can't imagine I'll be making any more of these.

 

*Edit - wow, I forgot to resize those

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I am thinking about using this diode: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroele...EkEDEfs9dBHE%3d

 

Anyone have any input on it? 30A 30V max. in stock at mouser. really low current drop. looks like it should fit the bill.

 

~Jess

 

Hey Jess. I have the diodes in stock. I purchased some units recommended by Greg Bubb. I also think i have the Ted Churchill assistant guide in my file cabinet.

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I am thinking about using this diode: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroele...EkEDEfs9dBHE%3d

 

Anyone have any input on it? 30A 30V max. in stock at mouser. really low current drop. looks like it should fit the bill.

 

~Jess

Jess,

 

Pretty sure all you need is a 2 pin type not a semi conductor like the one you picked out. They are basically a one way valve that doesn't let the current reverse direction.

 

Bill

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Pretty sure all you need is a 2 pin type not a semi conductor like the one you picked out. They are basically a one way valve that doesn't let the current reverse direction.

 

Bill

 

Something like a Motorola MR2404. I am modifying an AB 2 battery carrier for an op and it has six of these mounted together attached to a heat sink.

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The advantage of using the 3 pin is that you can link them together, but if you put one per plate, then 2 pin would work... I just bought an Anton Bauer plate, and it already had one of these installed.

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Thanks for the info, but I can't seem to be able to get my hands on these

 

http://www.ic-on-line.cn/IOL/datasheet/dssk80-0025b_1184560.pdf

 

my suplier tells me there is a 60 day waiting period before he get some for me but of course I start a show with Genesis next week...

can anybody help me ? I just need 5 or 6 !

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