modifying grip on Flyer 2nd gen

[Mark Schlicher]

I'm considering modifying the grip on my second generation Flyer and would appreciate some input.

 

The grip is about 3" long and 1.14" OD. In order to have more control (particularly for tilts) I want to extend the length of the grip to 5". I understand the diameter vs. control issue so I don't want to make the OD of the grip too big. Also, I ideally want something that would be non-destructive to the original grip. A PRO Wrapgrip with a 1.5" ID seems to be a good starting place...seems I could have a machinist fix me up with tubular shims to take up the slack. Any other way to do this?

 

Related, the 3/4" post makes lowmode control quite difficult. I've considered a 3" or so long Delrin sleeve, split down the middle and secured with a thin hose clamp, but the idea of the hose clamp material sticking out doesn't really appeal (plus the time it would take to rig it each time). I've looked at commercially-available shaft collars but nothing is quite the right dimensions. Again it seems like a Wrapgrip with some interior shimming might be the most elegant solution.

 

I don't want to spend a ton of cash (that could be going to savings for an A2), but I appreciate any input. Thanks!

 

A couple of additional specific questions:

 

1. It looks like the original Wrapgrips had 1.5" ID and about 1.8" OD, and are no longer sold on the PRO GPI website. It appears that the Wrapgrip II is 2" ID. Am I correct on these points?

2. Can Delrin be tapped to accept screws without fear of stripping?

[Erwin Landau]

It's all about timing:

 

http://www.steadicam-ops.com/database/soaC...p?recordID=4109

[Mark Schlicher]

Yes, I saw your post, it is very interesting. :-)

 

Does your wrapgrip have a 1.5" inside diameter? I'm also wondering about the oversized outside diameter, how might that be detrimental to a small rig?

 

It's all about timing:

 

http://www.steadicam-ops.com/database/soaC...p?recordID=4109

[Jerry Holway]

Mark-

 

very curious about your wish to extend the handgrip for tilts - control is going to go down as you grab the rig further and further from the c.g.. If you are having trouble holding a tilt, I suggest a less bottom heavy sled.

 

A bigger diameter grip will also have more influence (again the further from the c.g. one touches the rig, the more angular influence) but the difference at the level of 1.4 inches vs 1.5 or 1.8 may be easily overcome by improved technique if you prefer the feel of it.

 

Tapping Delrin with small threads in thin sections (in the order of 20 TPI, smaller than #10, 1/4" or so thick) can easily strip the threads, so the use of helicoils is better (same for most aluminum) - it's all about the application, how long it should last. I've often made test parts with 4-40 threads in thin Delrin... and it can work if the loads are light. Use taps that have NEVER touched metal for best results.

 

Modification is a process of discovery, and some of it will be painful (time, energy, $$, Oops-I-should-have-known-that -head-thumping, etc.)

 

Jerry

[Mark Schlicher]

Jerry,

 

When attempting a proper grip, with my pinky in position to control pendular motion and aid in tilting, (pp50-53 in your book) I find that it falls below the 3" length of the Flyer's grip, and doesn't comforably rest on the 3/4" post. The small diameter post seems to make it harder to reach the post "dead center" with my pinky when tilting. My idea is to wrap a longer grip around the existing grip, extending it to a total of 5", so that my entire hand can rest on it in a proper, relaxed grip. So, it's not that I want to grap the grip further from the CG, I just want to be able to spread out my hand without hanging off the end of the grip. I have small hands and not very strong pinkies, FWIW.

 

I'm using a drop time of a little over 2 seconds, and my tilt issue isn't so much holding it as improving my ability to control it, given the skinny Flyer post.

 

Low mode is a similar problem but worse, I can't get a good grip on that slippery little post....

 

Does that clarify? Granted that I'll keep getting better with practice, but I thought if I can improve the rig in this way it would help me get better quicker. What do you think?

 

Thanks for your info on working with Delrin, also.

 

Mark-

 

very curious about your wish to extend the handgrip for tilts - control is going to go down as you grab the rig further and further from the c.g.. If you are having trouble holding a tilt, I suggest a less bottom heavy sled.

 

A bigger diameter grip will also have more influence (again the further from the c.g. one touches the rig, the more angular influence) but the difference at the level of 1.4 inches vs 1.5 or 1.8 may be easily overcome by improved technique if you prefer the feel of it.

 

Tapping Delrin with small threads in thin sections (in the order of 20 TPI, smaller than #10, 1/4" or so thick) can easily strip the threads, so the use of helicoils is better (same for most aluminum) - it's all about the application, how long it should last. I've often made test parts with 4-40 threads in thin Delrin... and it can work if the loads are light. Use taps that have NEVER touched metal for best results.

 

Modification is a process of discovery, and some of it will be painful (time, energy, $$, Oops-I-should-have-known-that -head-thumping, etc.)

 

Jerry