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Ultra2 vs Pro GPI vs XCS2


Alex Kornreich

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Alex:

 

Winning an argument with me or anyone else on this forum is not going to help you when picture goes up at 2 a.m. in a supermarket in East L.A. and you’ve got a long, involved walk backwards with an 80 mm. and an unforgiving DP on your ass.

 

The only reason you should review the validity of your arguments – especially the one about Formula 1 - is so that you can dispassionately clarify your thinking and buy the very best gear you can afford right now.

 

This is what I’m saying:

 

First thing you buy is a used TB-6 with the PDL – whether you can afford them or not. That way you can see what you’re shooting, frame and hold level no matter what. The no-matter-what part comes into play a lot. Then you buy XCS or PRO in that order. Then you can take any gig that comes your way, and you don’t have to think much about your gear, and you can just concentrate on getting the shot.

 

Good luck, and fly safe.

 

- Dave

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I'm still not sure what any of this has to do with the subject matter of this thread.

 

I felt I needed to respond as people new to the industry should focus on their craft, not equipment.

 

Alex:

 

Winning an argument with me or anyone else on this forum is not going to help you when picture goes up at 2 a.m. in a supermarket in East L.A. and you’ve got a long, involved walk backwards with an 80 mm. and an unforgiving DP on your ass.

 

Who else am I arguing with?

 

The only reason you should review the validity of your arguments – especially the one about Formula 1 - is so that you can dispassionately clarify your thinking and buy the very best gear you can afford right now.

 

I'm a native english speaker and don't understand a word of this.

 

This has been an extremely informative thread, and I'm sure it's helped a lot of people. Let's try to keep it that way and stay on topic.

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Dave, I like what you have had done with the what look to be carbon fibre rods and the XCS monitor bracket. Is this something Greg did? How is it working out for you?

 

Best,

 

Rick.

 

Rick:

 

Monitor rods are 14", black nickel plated at L&L Anodizing up in Sunland. Greg cut them that length for me. I like my monitor out in the next county. Keeps my chin off my chest and, consequently, my shoulders back.

 

- Dave

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Good stuff Dave.

 

I've found the same, and I have about 14" of outward travel with my monitor bracket too. Good if using a lighter LCD, and easier to keep the sled in DB while expanding the masses especially if you fly with two batteries toward the back.

 

Excellent.

 

Rick.

 

Dave, I like what you have had done with the what look to be carbon fibre rods and the XCS monitor bracket. Is this something Greg did? How is it working out for you?

 

Best,

 

Rick.

 

Rick:

 

Monitor rods are 14", black nickel plated at L&L Anodizing up in Sunland. Greg cut them that length for me. I like my monitor out in the next county. Keeps my chin off my chest and, consequently, my shoulders back.

 

- Dave

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I've found the same, and I have about 14" of outward travel with my monitor bracket too. Good if using a lighter LCD, and easier to keep the sled in DB while expanding the masses especially if you fly with two batteries toward the back.

 

 

WOW, now try navigating a tight set and turning some corners

 

I'd NEVER want my monitor that far out in front.

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Agreed Eric, and I tend to fly with one battery out back, so I can crush everything completley inward, or pull everything outward to it's maximum depending on the type of shot I'm doing, or how I need the sled to behave. If not in a tight set and doing a simple solid walk and talk I'd personally tend to increase my pan inertia by getting the monitor and batteries out that far while still keeping good DB.

 

Just saying it's good to have that flexibility, and this can only really be achieved with the lighter LCD's this way, other than adding additional excess weight, or a battery onto the back.

 

Rick.

 

I've found the same, and I have about 14" of outward travel with my monitor bracket too. Good if using a lighter LCD, and easier to keep the sled in DB while expanding the masses especially if you fly with two batteries toward the back.

 

 

WOW, now try navigating a tight set and turning some corners

 

I'd NEVER want my monitor that far out in front.

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re: monitor in the next zip code

 

Flat spin is nice, and I try for it when not rushed during setup, rushed between lens changes, or rushed between takes. Pan inertia is nice, but with my very nice gimbal, I don’t worry about pan jitter, and, anyway, I’ve found that it’s always easier to see the monitor and the level by body panning or arm panning – unless the DP or director stipulates a fixed post-axis pan.

 

Tight space, I just ride it in close and back to the point of my hip bone, turn my hips and shoulders together into the turn, save my 5” right there. I also ask for small things to fly away/go back. Amazing how often that works w/o compromising the integrity of the shot or any other department’s artistry.

 

- Dave

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re: monitor in the next zip code

 

I also ask for small things to fly away/go back. Amazing how often that works w/o compromising the integrity of the shot or any other department’s artistry.

 

 

 

Uh-huh. so its easier to add a few crew people than to just shorten up the rig....

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re: monitor in the next zip code

 

I also ask for small things to fly away/go back. Amazing how often that works w/o compromising the integrity of the shot or any other department’s artistry.

 

 

 

Uh-huh. so its easier to add a few crew people than to just shorten up the rig....

 

Eric:

 

Four years ago. Lo mode in bathroom, mile long F900 right at my shins. Boom up over the tub and back down, scurry into the corner for a tough, angled, linear three shot lock off. (Weird shot, no?) Multiple takes. On the fifth take, I decided to ask for the tub hose on the floor to be moved. It came up right in the middle of the boom move. It went away in ninety seconds, no questions asked, one guy. Grip? Set Dec? PA? I didn’t ask.

 

Why did I wait until the fifth take? Always a difficult question upon arrival on a new job: How much can I ask for? My default is this: I ask for nothing, see if I can get the shot just as things are. But I do need to give myself a chance to do my best work. No easy answer.

 

- Dave

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re: monitor in the next zip code

 

I also ask for small things to fly away/go back. Amazing how often that works w/o compromising the integrity of the shot or any other department’s artistry.

 

 

 

Uh-huh. so its easier to add a few crew people than to just shorten up the rig....

 

Eric:

 

Four years ago. Lo mode in bathroom, mile long F900 right at my shins. Boom up over the tub and back down, scurry into the corner for a tough, angled, linear three shot lock off. (Weird shot, no?) Multiple takes. On the fifth take, I decided to ask for the tub hose on the floor to be moved. It came up right in the middle of the boom move. It went away in ninety seconds, no questions asked, one guy. Grip? Set Dec? PA? I didn’t ask.

 

Why did I wait until the fifth take? Always a difficult question upon arrival on a new job: How much can I ask for? My default is this: I ask for nothing, see if I can get the shot just as things are. But I do need to give myself a chance to do my best work. No easy answer.

 

- Dave

 

You miss my point, and your described shot doesn't go to support and illustrate your claim.

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definitely not wanting to resurrect the my post is longer than your post argument...but I have a silly question:

 

since the post locking rings on the pro2 are 2" in diameter...has anyone put a 2" gore-lock dock ring onto this knurled ring to be able to get the gimbal higher? I thought George had mentioned this locking ring was designed to be used as a dock ring in his docking bracket. I know it will only allow the gimbal to move up an extra 1/2" to 5/8" but that translates to 1.5" less post extension without adding weight.

 

told you it was a silly question

 

rb

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Ron,

 

Not a silly question. As you know, I use a 2" post on my PRO 2 therefore I use a 2" Gorelock. I usually keep the Gorelock ring on my post just below the locking ring in question, but I have on many occasions let the Gorelock ring ride all the way to the top covering the PRO locking ring to achieve just what you are asking. The only drawback that I see is that it will scratch up the the knurled ring ever so slightly and if the ring ever loosens you may not notice right away (although this has never happened to me because I keep it so tight). In short, I don't leave it this way all the time because I like to "keep an eye" on it, but you better believe I do it for heavy/top heavy set-ups.

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