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RTMotion Systems MK3


Alan Rencher

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1st ACs that use mine love it and don't have any problems. Its the best £4000 I've spent. If you engage the motor before you power up it will auto calibrate no problem. Also you might have been holding the controller very near the transmitter when you first got it without being able to set the wireless power setting to low. Did the super speeds have stiffness near the infinity stop to cause that callibration issue?

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1st ACs that use mine love it and don't have any problems. Its the best £4000 I've spent. If you engage the motor before you power up it will auto calibrate no problem. Also you might have been holding the controller very near the transmitter when you first got it without being able to set the wireless power setting to low. Did the super speeds have stiffness near the infinity stop to cause that callibration issue?

 

The motor was engaged which is great and fine on len's with hard stops, but on the dslr lens I was testing it with, that wasn't the case. It just would've made more sense to send that command from the controller.

 

I was fairly close maybe 3-5 ft on powering up so that definitely could have been a problem getting it to connect, thanks for the tip on the power setting.

That's one feature I do really enjoy is how intuitive and well laid out the menu settings are on the controller, an absolute breeze to find almost anything.

 

The super speeds were fairly stiff all the way through the focal range, so I don't think the end stops specifically had too much to do with it, I think the motor was possibly trying to compensate for the added torque need to actually move the lens, causing it to be slightly off.

It was the first time I noticed a much greater latency while focusing so I know the motor was really struggling, but with that being said it performed fairly well. The DP even commented that the heden/bartech had problems last time they used that lens set.

Unfortunately the rental house's lack of general maintenance of them is what I'd really blame. The marks were all off on the lens, possible even enough to cause the inf. focusing problems, where millimeters matter.

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Cool, I guess its not designed for DSLR lenses but is going to get used with them so its worth mentioning to them a feature you think would be beneficial. The other important thing is to make sure the response is set to fast for the focus motor. The default has added smoothing which is nice for zoom and iris but adds latency you don't want for focus.

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  • 1 month later...

There is a BETA firmware available on the RTMotion website which implements a memory in the motor unit for its most recent calibration.

 

If you have the motor calibrated to turn a DSLR lens, the motor will remeber the calibration between power cycles - the engineer claims it will remember near indefinitely.

 

I've had this firmware installed since shortly after its release in February, and it's worked very well for me. It's very convenient to be able to switch batteries without manually recalibrating everytime I do so.

 

ANY new calibrations of the motor are now done exclusively through the handset. The motor does not auto-calibrate on its own in this firmware. This is very helpful with DSLR work. It adds a very small extra step in the procedure for hard-stop lenses, as now you deliberately have to initiate a re-cal on your own. Kudos to the team for this update.

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Always an issue with this system whenever I've seen one on set, thankfully it's never on my camera or sled!

Stick with Preston/Arri/Bartech/Hocus Products....they are all rock solid.

Newer C-motions are great too but the older ones had some range/interference issues.

 

The whole losing connection when within 2-3 feet would be a total no go for me, imagine a tracking shot on a tight lens through a hallway or something and your focus puller gets up close and personal whilst pulling and the signal drops, the shot would be useless within an instant I don't see how that is an issue that is tolerable day to day?

 

Why waste time with kit that is going to shaft you and make you look bad?

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I've read of people's serious concern with the near-distance cut-out. This is apparently a symptom unique to this system.

 

The symptom is only trully problematic within the highest powered transmission mode (to maximise range). Besides, you'd only really need maximum range for drone work, for which you're never really going to be very near the camera anyway.

 

On the 'low' transmission setting, my trials have consistently caused a cut-out ONLY when the hand unit is within 20cm of the reciever, which, in any scenario I can realistically think of, is much closer than the two units will ever be, even if operator and focus-puller are standing right next to each other.

 

It's an unfortunate problem for the RTMotion system, not because it poses as an operational weakness per-se, but because the theory of it casts a sebseuent doubt over the integrity of the system as a whole.

 

I definitely don't think it's fair to be dismissisive of the entire kit over this single limitation. In any other respect, I've yet to have the system fail on me. It's a system that's delivered for me in many ways that Preston, Arri, Bartech, and Hocus could never - and that's why I chose it. The connection cutting out at very close range is the very least of my problems.

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  • 7 months later...

After the day i just had with this unit, I won't be going near one again any time soon.

 

There was problem after problem all day, and on a fast paced TVC, that was the last thing we needed.

I was using an Arri Alexa in handheld mode with Zeiss Mk3 Super Speeds, TV Logic onboard monitor (powered by Alexa 12v 2pin), Teradek Bolt 300 (powered by Alexa 3pin RS) and RT motion was powered via DTAP from the onboard V-Lock battery as well as having the camera run cable into the Alexa's 2nd 3 pin RS

- The controller would calibrate the lens and then intermittently not work, turning the handset wheel and nothing would happen (changed batteries of both handset and camera - no joy)

It got to the stage that i had an FF4 rigged on the light weight rods, ready to engage the gear whenever it freaked out.

- The "run" light on the handset would get out of sync with the camera, so you'd think you were rolling, but no...........

- Whenever power was pulled to swing V-Lock batteries (camera still powered via block battery) it would make the camera start rolling.

- Focus discs don't click on secure enough, had them come mid-shot several times..........not what you want happening whist running around with the operator.

- In regards to the near distance drop-off..............every time whilst trying to mark up the focus discs.........EXTREMELY FRUSTRATING!!!!

 

There's a reason why the Preston and Arri WCU are the price they are, and at the end of the day, you get what you pay for.

Luckily for me, it was a rental and i hadn't invested in one.

I'd grab a Preston or an Arri over this any time.

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After the day i just had with this unit, I won't be going near one again any time soon.

 

There was problem after problem all day, and on a fast paced TVC, that was the last thing we needed.

I was using an Arri Alexa in handheld mode with Zeiss Mk3 Super Speeds, TV Logic onboard monitor (powered by Alexa 12v 2pin), Teradek Bolt 300 (powered by Alexa 3pin RS) and RT motion was powered via DTAP from the onboard V-Lock battery as well as having the camera run cable into the Alexa's 2nd 3 pin RS

- The controller would calibrate the lens and then intermittently not work, turning the handset wheel and nothing would happen (changed batteries of both handset and camera - no joy)

It got to the stage that i had an FF4 rigged on the light weight rods, ready to engage the gear whenever it freaked out.

- The "run" light on the handset would get out of sync with the camera, so you'd think you were rolling, but no...........

- Whenever power was pulled to swing V-Lock batteries (camera still powered via block battery) it would make the camera start rolling.

- Focus discs don't click on secure enough, had them come mid-shot several times..........not what you want happening whist running around with the operator.

- In regards to the near distance drop-off..............every time whilst trying to mark up the focus discs.........EXTREMELY FRUSTRATING!!!!

 

There's a reason why the Preston and Arri WCU are the price they are, and at the end of the day, you get what you pay for.

Luckily for me, it was a rental and i hadn't invested in one.

I'd grab a Preston or an Arri over this any time.

 

I won't pretend to act as technical support for the system, but that simply (and obviously) does not sound normal.

 

Try submitting your grievances to the RTMotion crew, they'd be very interested to hear. In any case, that's a very unusual group of symptoms.

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After the day i just had with this unit, I won't be going near one again any time soon.

 

There was problem after problem all day, and on a fast paced TVC, that was the last thing we needed.

I was using an Arri Alexa in handheld mode with Zeiss Mk3 Super Speeds, TV Logic onboard monitor (powered by Alexa 12v 2pin), Teradek Bolt 300 (powered by Alexa 3pin RS) and RT motion was powered via DTAP from the onboard V-Lock battery as well as having the camera run cable into the Alexa's 2nd 3 pin RS

- The controller would calibrate the lens and then intermittently not work, turning the handset wheel and nothing would happen (changed batteries of both handset and camera - no joy)

It got to the stage that i had an FF4 rigged on the light weight rods, ready to engage the gear whenever it freaked out.

- The "run" light on the handset would get out of sync with the camera, so you'd think you were rolling, but no...........

- Whenever power was pulled to swing V-Lock batteries (camera still powered via block battery) it would make the camera start rolling.

- Focus discs don't click on secure enough, had them come mid-shot several times..........not what you want happening whist running around with the operator.

- In regards to the near distance drop-off..............every time whilst trying to mark up the focus discs.........EXTREMELY FRUSTRATING!!!!

 

There's a reason why the Preston and Arri WCU are the price they are, and at the end of the day, you get what you pay for.

Luckily for me, it was a rental and i hadn't invested in one.

I'd grab a Preston or an Arri over this any time.

My 1st Ac and I had exactly the same experience on set with RTmotion mk.II

Especially when it calibrates the lens and then just stops in the middle of calibration.

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  • 9 months later...

After the day i just had with this unit, I won't be going near one again any time soon.

 

There was problem after problem all day, and on a fast paced TVC, that was the last thing we needed.

I was using an Arri Alexa in handheld mode with Zeiss Mk3 Super Speeds, TV Logic onboard monitor (powered by Alexa 12v 2pin), Teradek Bolt 300 (powered by Alexa 3pin RS) and RT motion was powered via DTAP from the onboard V-Lock battery as well as having the camera run cable into the Alexa's 2nd 3 pin RS

- The controller would calibrate the lens and then intermittently not work, turning the handset wheel and nothing would happen (changed batteries of both handset and camera - no joy)

It got to the stage that i had an FF4 rigged on the light weight rods, ready to engage the gear whenever it freaked out.

- The "run" light on the handset would get out of sync with the camera, so you'd think you were rolling, but no...........

- Whenever power was pulled to swing V-Lock batteries (camera still powered via block battery) it would make the camera start rolling.

- Focus discs don't click on secure enough, had them come mid-shot several times..........not what you want happening whist running around with the operator.

- In regards to the near distance drop-off..............every time whilst trying to mark up the focus discs.........EXTREMELY FRUSTRATING!!!!

 

There's a reason why the Preston and Arri WCU are the price they are, and at the end of the day, you get what you pay for.

Luckily for me, it was a rental and i hadn't invested in one.

I'd grab a Preston or an Arri over this any time.

Hi, I'm new to this forum, but just signed up as I'm using a RTMOTION 3.1 on a job at the moment, and I'm having exactly the same problems you have experienced.

 

I'm reassured that this issue is being discussed, and that mine isn't an isolated issue.

 

Has anyone with this problem managed to fix it?

 

we are shooting Alexa, and powering RTMOTION through either D Tap or 2 Pin, whilst also powering TVLogic and Viper 300.

 

Two two main issues are the camera spontaneously turning over by itself, and also intermittently stopping working after a calibration, the hand controller won't turn the motor (just to mention, this has been happening when I'm far from the camera or close).

 

I'll be phoning RTMOTION on Monday morning when they open. Hopefully I can sort this for the rest of the shoot.

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