Jump to content

Power Options for Flyer 1st Gen.


James Poremba

Recommended Posts

Hello, I purchased a used Steadicam flyer
(first gen I believe, grey arm?) and knew that the power cables from the
battery plates to the LEMO connector (2-pin) was severed. My plan is to
replace the cable harness to allow me to hook a LEMO to D-tap then a
D-tap splitter box to hook up to a RED scarlet / monitor / bartek etc...

I have a couple questions:
1) Should I replace my two pin LEMO with a more modern three pin for power? Not sure if "more modern" is the correct term, it just seems to be in wider use.

 

2)How do I go about wiring both Anton Bauer battery mounts that were
included on the sled to run up to that LEMO connector? I would like to
be able to use 2 batteries on the bottom running together up the post to
the power port. I'm not sure where to start on this, or if that is even
an option (see included photos)

Any assistance would be appreciated to get me started.

Thank you

 

39272f017c4dd0da5c52db8e83a56a64e3db1874ce5df09b0e67660df7bc9d9d4g.jpg

 

0fe293d407e64ecdea709ab37e6c3bd307b012c467215272bdaeeeb428dbc81b4g.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Members

Generally, a 3-pin Lemo is used if you plan on modifying your battery plate to give out a 24v option; 1st pin being 12v, second pin being 24v (or is 1st pin negative... I forget, but you may want to look at the pinouts for the Zephyr, Archer, etc to see what I mean).

 

Someone else may have a slightly more informed answer about the cabling, but I would say that 14 gauge wire run in a coil up the centerpost will be the way to do it.

 

If you don't feel up to the task, Terry West has done this modification for many people, and he's a great guy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Members

Yes, gray arm is 1st gen, functionally 1st and 2nd gen are the same.

 

No need for a coil, the post is fixed length.

 

Even if you plan to stay 12v, going with the 3 pin makes you more compatible with others. But you could also add a 12/24 switch into your system. The likelihood of ever needing the 24v side is supremely low, but you're already re-wiring so if the idea appeals it's easy to add.

 

You can also add a splitter box under the top stage, you could probably go straight to P-Tap if that's what you're gonna use, I'd just make 'em all 3pin Lemos. You can get 4 extra connectors and a 12/24v switch if ya like (Keep most connectors 12v only for accessories). You'll never need that many, but it's nice to have so that you can power the camera, BFD, transmitter, downconverter, and have a spare, and not all off one Lemo with a splitter. And then you don't have to have those cables for every camera you might get, many of which won't have power output anyway.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the feedback! I have a couple more questions about power then, should I request this be moved to the battery/power page?

 

I really would like to know how to run both battery mounts in series up to the lemo connector. I think running it to a lemo breakout box is a great idea, but I'm not sure how to run cables from both battery mounts to one main lemo connector (which will then break out) There are two wires (hot a neutral/ground I assume) from each mount, so to run them to one lemo connector...not really sure where to start.

 

Thanks in advance for any further assistance

 

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Members

James,

 

Things can get complicated fast...Brian's suggestion re: Terry West is a good one. He's fast, reasonable, and knows what he's doing. For two batteries (even 12V) you need to install a diode in-line, to prevent back-charging problems (use the search function here to pull up several threads that contain details).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Premium Members

That was Alan's suggestion. I support it.

 

James,

 

I had exactly what I described done to my Flyer and I love it, though I've never had the occasion to use the 24v (and do not expect to). Terry didn't do it, but he did all new electronics for my Ultra and he did a fantastic job.

  • Upvote 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 8 months later...

this has been a real interesting thread for us. Have a 1st gen flyer to use for lightweight... since digital world no cameras up with 24V for quite a while so decided to rewire to P tap multi. one battery to the lower end multi output and monitor to enable trans etc at lower end and one battery to upper box kept t pin lemo and built wire to multi p tap for camera/focus/trans etc power at upper box. So far works good.

TJsr

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...