play within the bayonet connection

[JensSchroeder]

I bought a sled with XCS post and Pro junction box. Now I experienced massive play in the bayonet connection when I put a camera on top.

Any advices or similar experiences? I tried another junction box and there was the same play so I guess it is the bayonet part inside the post.

Any help appreciated. Cheers, jens

[Blake Waldock]

I had the same issue when I upgraded my junction boxes.

 

I swapped the locking collars from the old junction boxes and that worked a treat, though I recall also having to rotate one of the junction boxes 180 degrees to the other for some reason...

 

Hope that helps

[Blake Waldock]

Doh! Just re-read...

 

So assuming this play was existing and not as a result of changing parts... Best bet is to talk to Greg.

 

I think there was a change in the tolerances used in the pro bayonets at some point and maybe your post is before that change??

 

Wish I could help, sorry!

[JensSchroeder]

Hey Blake,

 

Thank you for your great help. First, i just read your second post because I didn't notice the first one. And as you said, it must be something with the tolerances because the lower J-Box is a Pro1 version so maybe the post bayonet part is an older version. Luckyly I saw your first post too because I just rotated the J-box and it seems there is no play anymore. But I will have to try it with weight on it to see if it really works. I had already prepared everything for glueing the J-Box to the post with special metal glue but I didn't yet :D .

 

I'll let you know if it works with the rotation advice.

 

Talk to you later and fly safe,

 

jens

Doh! Just re-read...

So assuming this play was existing and not as a result of changing parts... Best bet is to talk to Greg.

I think there was a change in the tolerances used in the pro bayonets at some point and maybe your post is before that change??

Wish I could help, sorry!

[Jess Haas SOC]

Aluminum is actually very difficult to glue to with any lasting results so you might not want to go that route if it requires adhesion. If it just fills the gap and is held mechanically in place that might work

[Iain Baird]

I bought a sled with XCS post and Pro junction box. Now I experienced massive play in the bayonet connection when I put a camera on top.

Any advices or similar experiences? I tried another junction box and there was the same play so I guess it is the bayonet part inside the post.

Any help appreciated. Cheers, jens

 

Is the play in the bayonet connection or in the actual thread attached to the XCS post - as some play started in my sled once after the sled took a hit and it was the thread not the bayonet mount that was the problem. The Large thread on the post section is held secure in the post by a locking nut and I'm assuming here, lock tight of some kind. On mine the lock tight must have shattered or was damaged in the hit and then the bottom stage would then shift a little in my hand no matter how tight the bayonet mount was. To fix it I loosed the locking nut and unscrewed the large thread enough to drop some more lock tight in, rethreaded it and the play was gone. Perhaps not the same as your problem but worth a look.

 

iB

[JensSchroeder]

Hi Jess,

 

Thanks for the advice. Glueing would have been my very last solution but fortunately the rotation of the j-box seemed to work.

Aluminum is actually very difficult to glue to with any lasting results so you might not want to go that route if it requires adhesion. If it just fills the gap and is held mechanically in place that might work

[JensSchroeder]

Hi Iain,

 

Thanks for the input. I checked the post thread first and it's fix. I actually turned the j-box and it seems to work now. I'll post the result if I have checked it with the complete setup next week.

Is the play in the bayonet connection or in the actual thread attached to the XCS post - as some play started in my sled once after the sled took a hit and it was the thread not the bayonet mount that was the problem. The Large thread on the post section is held secure in the post by a locking nut and I'm assuming here, lock tight of some kind. On mine the lock tight must have shattered or was damaged in the hit and then the bottom stage would then shift a little in my hand no matter how tight the bayonet mount was. To fix it I loosed the locking nut and unscrewed the large thread enough to drop some more lock tight in, rethreaded it and the play was gone. Perhaps not the same as your problem but worth a look.

 

iB

[JensSchroeder]

Hi Blake,

 

I received a profund answer from Pro concerning the bayonet system. Just want to clarify that contrary to popular belief Pro has never changed the tolerances on their (patented) bayonet mounting system.

Pro did change the threaded ring about 8-9 years ago and added three more threads so that operators could dock on the ring itself instead of a docking clamp. This change had nothing to do with the bayonet connector.

As I said, I followed your advice to rotatate the j-box 180 degrees and it seems to work. I'll keep you updated when I've checked it with a complete setup.

Doh! Just re-read...

So assuming this play was existing and not as a result of changing parts... Best bet is to talk to Greg.

I think there was a change in the tolerances used in the pro bayonets at some point and maybe your post is before that change??

Wish I could help, sorry!

Doh! Just re-read...

So assuming this play was existing and not as a result of changing parts... Best bet is to talk to Greg.

I think there was a change in the tolerances used in the pro bayonets at some point and maybe your post is before that change??

Wish I could help, sorry!

[Alec Jarnagin SOC]

Jens, if I'm not mistaken, the two "safety" pins that stick out on the J-Box side, can influence how well it fits. The earlier units had two pins that were pressed in place while the later ones had to tiny set screws. If you have the set screw style, try turning them in a turn or two tighter (i.e. shorter) and you may find that it sits better with an XCS post. As for the original style with the two pressed pins, I've seen people simply remove them but then you loose one extra measure of safety.

 

I'd also add that XCS changed their "PRO style" mounts once PRO added the extra threads as the original style XCS will never get tight with the later style PRO because the locking ring bottoms out (on a 1.5" post, if you don't have enough threads, the newer ring will just hang over a little of the post, but one a 2", it hits the post not allowing you to get tighter). If this is the case, you have two choices, have Greg upgrade your mounts OR have him send you a retaining ring that raises the J-Box by the equivalent threads and all then it will be tight). I hope this explanation makes some sense!

[JensSchroeder]

Hi Alec,

 

Thanks for the retaining ring advice. The explanation made full sense! Unfortunately the post mounts are glued so pretty hard to take out but I should go for the retaining ring, Raising the j-box a little because I already thought that the ring hits the 2" post just slightly.. Rotating the j-box 180 degrees, unexplanable for me, brought a big improvement but I believe I still feel a little play. Maybe by now I'm just too sensitive abiout it. I'll have to try it with full setup and let you know the outcome.

Jens, if I'm not mistaken, the two "safety" pins that stick out on the J-Box side, can influence how well it fits. The earlier units had two pins that were pressed in place while the later ones had to tiny set screws. If you have the set screw style, try turning them in a turn or two tighter (i.e. shorter) and you may find that it sits better with an XCS post. As for the original style with the two pressed pins, I've seen people simply remove them but then you loose one extra measure of safety.

 

I'd also add that XCS changed their style "PRO style" mounts once PRO added the extra threads as the original style XCS will never get tight with the later style PRO because the locking ring bottoms out (on a 1.5" post, if you don't have enough threads, the newer ring will just hang over a little of the post, but one a 2", it hits the post not allowing you to get together). If this is the case, you have two choices, have Greg upgrade your mounts OR have him send you a retaining ring that raises the J-Box by the equivalent threads and all then it will be tight). I hope this explanation makes some sense!

[Alec Jarnagin SOC]

Jens,

 

You are correct that changing the mounts is not easy! You need to send it to Greg and he heats them up to something like 1000 degrees (not sure if remember that number right, but you get my point). Later ones are also pinned in place as well as the epoxy. He will not guarantee that your post won't come back a little shorter if the ends are damaged. The retaining ring is the simple solution.

[Thomas English]

I've heard of people using plumbers tape as a temporary fix in this exact situation. Speak to Chris at Optical Support in the UK as I know he has corrected this properly for some people.

 

Best Regards

 

Thomas

[JensSchroeder]

Thanks Thomas.

I've heard of people using plumbers tape as a temporary fix in this exact situation. Speak to Chris at Optical Support in the UK as I know he has corrected this properly for some people.

 

Best Regards

 

Thomas

[Richard James Lewis]

I had issues with my XCS / PRO interface too.

Rotating it 180 magically fixed it. I do wrap the threads in PTFE tape and also poked a couple of tiny bits into the holes where the 3 mating pins insert, and it's all solid now.

I don't take it apart ever, I fear it won't go back as nice...

Never got to the bottom of it. Tolerances between different manufacturers.

Check every so often everything is very tight with the post tool and a plastic hammer.

R