Red One

[Afton Grant]

You can only power accessories from the D-Tap which means you'll need to fly the battery. But it's not like you'll have the option to power the camera from your sled because there is not a standard power input. Steadicam is now in the works on making them.

 

http://gallery.mac.com/alfeo1#100058/DSC_0...p;bgcolor=black

 

Hey Alfeo,

 

Are you saying the camera cannot be powered by anything but its own battery, or that you just didn't have the proper cables to power off your sled? The primary power plug on the camera is a standard LEMO connector, and the pin outs have been posted here on the forum somewhere. Wouldn't that work?

 

Also, just wondering why your sled was extended so far, especially with such a light camera. Personal preference, or for the shot?

[Alfeo Dixon SOC]

You can only power accessories from the D-Tap which means you'll need to fly the battery. But it's not like you'll have the option to power the camera from your sled because there is not a standard power input. Steadicam is now in the works on making them.

 

<a href="http://gallery.mac.com/alfeo1#100058/DSC_0...p;bgcolor=black" target="_blank">http://gallery.mac.com/alfeo1#100058/DSC_0...p;bgcolor=black</a>

 

Hey Alfeo,

 

Are you saying the camera cannot be powered by anything but its own battery, or that you just didn't have the proper cables to power off your sled? The primary power plug on the camera is a standard LEMO connector, and the pin outs have been posted here on the forum somewhere. Wouldn't that work?

 

Also, just wondering why your sled was extended so far, especially with such a light camera. Personal preference, or for the shot?

 

 

Really just more of a gripe that they wouldn't choose a standard already in place i.e. 4pin XLR or Arricam. I've already talked to Steadicam about making the cables.

 

As for the sled length, you've got me thing on how I can shorten up my length, never noticed it till now. The Ultra2 is so light on the bottom that I haven't found a happy medium for a short config. Yet... Open for suggestions.

[Jerry Holway]

As for the sled length, you've got me thing on how I can shorten up my length, never noticed it till now. The Ultra2 is so light on the bottom that I haven't found a happy medium for a short config. Yet... Open for suggestions.

 

Alfeo-

 

check out the accessory rod weights (800-7617) - they screw directly into the battery rods. I think Geoff Haley gets the kudos for thinking these up...

 

Jerry

[Philip J. Martinez SOC]

will the weights work with the Clipper's batt. rods too?

[Marc Abernathy]

had a shoot with the RED. the weight was really nice. the silver spring flew it very nicely. no down-converter, so used the monitor off the camera. the photo shows how the Red Monitor was first setup because we had an actress who had to roll out early so we just set it that way. subsequent setups it was placed to clear the antenna on the Bartech.

 

it mated right up with one of my long cheese plates which was also nice. it was great how you could slide the camera body fore/aft without having to strip it off the cheese plate and re-locate it on the cheese plate to, say, get a better balance fore/aft.

 

there is definitely a small range of view with the Red Monitor, but its so lightweight the Rig didnt know it was there.

 

boot times (from a cold boot) were like booting up windows, so i would stand and stare at the little Red icon on the monitor until it said it was ready.

 

The modular make-up of this camera was really a blessing. you can configure this thing in many ways.

 

again it really flew nicely on my old school Masters. the setup was simple. not a lot of wires, just the BFD and motor.

 

once a roll (card) was exposed, we all went over to the MAC and smoked over the clips. Red makes a QT clip that you can see right away--again very nice.

 

no Red Drive obviously so i wonder how the drive will weigh in... :rolleyes:

 

looking forward to working with it again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Marc Abernathy]

 

 

 

yes thats a pile of horse poo right under the stage in the background in the above photo... you had to really watch where you were stepping....

Edited December 9, 2007 by Marc_Abernathy

[Alfeo Dixon SOC]

Hey Marc,

 

How was sloppy seconds on #0043??? :P

 

-Alfeo

[Marc Abernathy]

a few screen grabs from the shoot using the Red. unaltered/untouched...

 

 

 

[Dave Isern]

Steadi gang,

 

Used "the Red" the last two days.

It's cool and light but finicky.

 

The camera gets used to a certain amount of power tapped off of it and if it changes - the system has issues. Shuts down, refuses to output monitor, etc.

Not feature or eposodic ready, but give it a little time.......

Cables seem very fragile. Definitely need a HDSDI input on your monitor.

 

I's cool though because it's light and it's a raw file image.

Maybe this pic will work.

 

/Users/daveisern/Pictures/iPhoto Library/Modified/2007/Roll 66/IMG_0315.JPG

 

Check it out when you get a chance,

Dave Isern

 

www.daveisern.com

[Charles Papert]

Dave:

 

That's the local link to your computer's user file...you better hope we don't have access to it!

 

I just came off a couple of days shooting with RED also, I introduced it to director McG and we had a fun couple of days with it. He loved the speed and 35mm feel, as did I. Obviously a lot of things are not there yet but there's no reason to believe that they won't be soon enough, considering how far they have come. I'm currently playing with REDCine and RED Alert, working on the color timing. We didn't have time to shoot closeups in one scene and since we are finishing on 1080, I'm building 2.5 to 1 extractions from the full rez files, i.e. instant closeups with no resolution loss--pretty wild. I wish I could post some stills also but the project is still under wraps.

 

On the Steadicam side of things, I had a long meeting with Steve and Hector at Element Technica (aka SL Cine) and the bracketry is coming along for our purposes. 15mm all the way, and a pretty quick switchover from studio to handheld to Steadicam without having to deal with camera screws. We talked through some options for battery mounting and this will also be a great improvement from the current situation; options that will keep the back panel accessible and also lower the center of gravity of the camera; good, because the no-screw method for mounting will require working with their Arri-style dovetail (just the smaller top part, not the honking lower plate) which raises the camera an inch or so. One could always remove said dovetail and replace with the Steadi dovetail plate for lower profile, but you would lose the lower rods which enable the new battery mount. This will however be a nice way to go for a running rig or concert type environment, where will more likely want to be using our own batteries to keep the weight down. In any event, by the summer latest this will be a very Steadicam-friendly camera.

[Lars Erik]

Hey all,

 

I'm scheduled to do a 8-day shoot with RED in March next year. And I don't have a HD monitor yet on my rig.

 

I'm guessing the Miranda downconverter will work with the RED, or does the camera require a specific converter?

 

Regarding 2k or 4k: this doesn't affect any video out I guess?

 

 

LE

[Alec Jarnagin SOC]

Lars,

 

Any of the light weight HD-SDI downcoverters should work, but again I stress HD-SDI as this is what the RED outputs. Don't assume Production has one because the RED is bringing in a whole new bread with it. Also, make sure you can power said downconverter.

 

Good luck.

[Charles Papert]

In the last year I've shot a lot of projects on HD, and eventually came to realize that it makes a lot of sense to leave my focus receiver and motors on the camera full-time, whether Steadicam, conventional or handheld etc. It makes swapping modes faster, and the AC can pull from the monitor any time he wants to (it's happening more and more). As a result I have invested in a number of handy P-tap cables which have subsequently saved me, particularly with the RED (and now to the relevant part). Having a P-tap to 4-pin XLR female that can plug into the camera body and provide 12v is most handy, as well as the 4-way P-tap splitter box, both of which are standard Anton Bauer parts. It's a safe bet that any downconverter will come with either a P-tap or an XLR cable in the case, so you will be covered (the splitter is great for when the P-tap is already in use for some other gizmo).

 

Lars, you are correct that the recording format does not affect the signal out, which is a preview HD-SDI output. It is helpful to fly the RED onboard monitor as well, as it has several features such as the "false color" exposure mode that aren't currently duplicated elsewhere. It is tempting to simply use that as the primary monitor, but it has a very limited vertical viewing angle and gets washed out easily in daylight.

[Lars Erik]

Alec and Charles,

 

I've told the production we need to rent a Miranda, so that should be fine. In the past I've usually powered the Miranda from a Hytron 50 attached directly to the downconverter. But now I've invested in the new powercubes (24v) so power shouldn't be an issue.

 

Just out of curiosity, is the P-tap similar to AB's power tap? Have lots of those.

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/5150..._XLR_Power.html

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

Have a happy new year!

 

 

Best regards

 

LE

[Charles Papert]

Just out of curiosity, is the P-tap similar to AB's power tap? Have lots of those.

 

They are one and the same.