Premium Members Jaron Berman Posted January 19, 2007 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Wow, how simple and elegant. One quick suggestion: If you split the mount, and screw it to itself, it won't mar your rods. Obviously, you're not tightening the screws too hard, but for version 2.0... So, does anyone know exactly how much the gimbal can take? I've been asking around, and the Tiffen people are pretty tight lipped. Basically, with this mod, can the sled balance and handle the weight the G50 can? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Lars Erik Posted January 19, 2007 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 19, 2007 Hello Jaron, as Jerry has pointed out, the Archer can take a lot more than the weight informed by Tiffen. You need a custom mount on the bottom of the rig, and with a 24v upgrade, you basically get that. I've found that the G-50 is more of a limitation than the rig and the gimbal. Had 18.5 kg on the rig, and that worked fine. The rig itself weighs 4 kg. And that's the max of the G-50. (22.5 kg) LE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Jaron Berman Posted January 20, 2007 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 Cool, very good to know. Thanks for sharing your experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members chris fawcett Posted January 20, 2007 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 Lars Erik! It looks great. So there was no '3rd wire' up the post to the 3-pin lemo. It had to be added? Also, I take it, your 2nd battery mount is hard wired. You can't remove it? I'll probably do a 'quick and dirty' version with a similar mount, but wire it externally from the D-taps, so I can remove it when it's not in use. Cheapskate, I know. All the best, Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Lars Erik Posted January 20, 2007 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 Hey Chris, the 2nd battery mount can't be removed. The 3rd wire has to be wired, but in the top stage itself, Tiffen has made 24v system ready. So you just add the wire. And no, there's no cheapskating using a removable 2nd battery. Sometimes that can even be better. I just want to keep my cables running outside the post to a minimum. Now with my 2nd battery I have to figure out a way to attach Antlers in low-mode... LE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Charles King Posted January 20, 2007 Premium Members Report Share Posted January 20, 2007 Very nice modes Lars :) Congrats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Members Colin Donahue Posted March 27, 2007 Premium Members Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Just had a custom battery plate added to my archer so that it will balance better. Thanks for your pics Lars, I pretty much copied yours, but without the 24volt. I mounted an anton bauer plated under the rods. My question is how to get power from the (new)second battery to the sled. The best configuration is a brick battery on the new mount under the post, and a dionic 90 or hytron 50 on the original battery mount. I could hardwire the new plate to the orignal battery plate or run some kind of connector from the original plate to the second battery plate, so that I could remove it if I wanted to . I talked to the people at anton bauer, and they said if you run two batteries at the same time, espcially a dionics and say a hytron 140, that the dionics will die first and then use the hytron to charge itself. They said it would still work, but maybe not as well as I would like. Has anybody run across this issue? Any suggestions? I have pictures but I cant remember how to post them. I will try later. colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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