Converted 3A Power Base to NP-1 Base

[Ade Brown]

Can anyone help me.

 

I have converted my old 12 volt 3A power base to a system that is 24 volts using NP-1 Batteries. I am looking to buy dependable NP-1's that have good watt hours. I bought several Switronix Pro-X NP-L60 Lithium Camera Batteries rated at 14.8v 60Wh. I have not been happy with the performance of the batteries. Some of the batteries have not held their charge or from a full charge have rapidly depleted. I am sick of them and intend to call the manufacturer. I have talked to several sound mixers who have recommended IDX NPL7's. Can anyone verify their dependability or offer any suggestions.

[RobVanGelder]

Ade, as a DIY-Steadicam rebuilder I have done this NP-1 phase too, and i can only advise to change now to bigger batteries as the NP-1 is just to skinny for decent work!

 

Unless you are mainly using small video cameras, everything else has a much higher amp-need then NP-1 batteries can supply.

My system was build with 3 NP-1's 2 for the camera and 1 for the electronics (LCD, not greenscreen) and it was barely enough for a short time.

These batteries are fine for gear with a low and steady draw, like mixers, videocamera's and such, but not when you need to run filmcameras, follow focus, video transmitters and more.

 

Change now before you invest too much.

[Ade Brown]

Ade, as a DIY-Steadicam rebuilder I have done this NP-1 phase too, and i can only advise to change now to bigger batteries as the NP-1 is just to skinny for decent work!

 

Unless you are mainly using small video cameras, everything else has a much higher amp-need then NP-1 batteries can supply.

My system was build with 3 NP-1's 2 for the camera and 1 for the electronics (LCD, not greenscreen) and it was barely enough for a short time.

These batteries are fine for gear with a low and steady draw, like mixers, videocamera's and such, but not when you need to run filmcameras, follow focus, video transmitters and more.

 

Change now before you invest too much.

 

Thank you for the advice. Having gone through the experience. What would you suggest is the best course of action to convert to an Anton Bauer system

[Alec Jarnagin SOC]

"Thank you for the advice. Having gone through the experience. What would you suggest is the best course of action to convert to an Anton Bauer system"

 

Brant Fagen used to make (may still have) a great plug'n play Anton Bauer conversion kit to place a full size brick on the back rails of a 3a (the battery is the same width as the electronic housing). Then I'd recommend adding a 2nd AB plate on the bottom of the electronic housing for a 2nd smaller AB battery (Performer - if you can find them or a Trimpac). This 2nd battery would "jump" you to 24 Volts (obviously, you have to wire it - not part of Brant's kit). Dynamic balance is still maintained because the the 2nd battery is under the center post.

 

Couldn't find any photos of my old 3a showing this at the moment, but here is a picture of Dave Isern's rig (which once upon a time belonged to Charles Papert - I spent a lot of time in that rig).

 

http://www.daveisern.com/Steadicam%20Equipment.html

[Charles Papert]

Dave's keeping that old sucker alive and kicking. More power to him!

 

(if memory serves, I bought it from Rusty in the early 90's--although I actually can't remember for sure! Rusty, you out there?)

[Matt Petrosky]

...who have recommended IDX NPL7's. Can anyone verify their dependability or offer any suggestions.

 

I've used these batteries for a couple of side projects that I've built and I think they are great -- very light, relatively cheap, and powerful. I used to harbor an intense hatred for the NP1 batteries from my video days but these IDX batts. have forced me to make peace with this old style battery. That being said, I agree with Rob, it is most likely not enough for your purposes. Good luck with it...