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Soldering


Dan Coplan

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I can't shrink tube to save my life, not with those tiny connectors, anyway. Anyone ever use that liquid tape/plasti-dip stuff as a substitute?

 

Dan "My Soldering Sucks, Too" Coplan

 

I've used it as a substitute potting compound on the ICBM current sense modules but it is a major pain to work with and god help you if you have to remove it from a connector. You would have to cut all the leads, dig it out and start over.

 

What is the problem you are having with shrink tubing? It is a million times easier to use than Plastic-Dip, trust me on this.

 

Soldering, like operating, is simply a matter of the right tools and practice, practice, practice.

 

Jim "can't spin balance" Bartell

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Concurring with Jim, shrink tubing is much easier if you have the right tools, the right size tubing, and remember to put it on BEFORE you solder (I'll admit that's burned me more than once). Do you have a heat gun, or are you using some other heat source?

 

When I first began toying with soldering, I was using a cheap Radio Shack iron and a lighter as a heat source. After I turned several 6 pin connectors into 1 pin connectors, I ponied up the cash for a real system. A couple hundred bucks for a nice Weller soldering station and real heat gun was WELL worth the money. Get various sizes of tips for your iron, from very fine to blunt. Also, if you don't have the little magnifying man with the alligator clamp hands, pick him up too.

 

I've used the Plasti-Dip on various things, but Jim is correct in that it is a PITA if you ever have to rework the connections. A big advantage Plasti-Dip has over tubing is its ability to create a tight seal. It can protect your connections from corrosion much better than tubing can.

 

Best of luck,

Afton

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I have all the right tools (I think) short of a heat gun including the nice Weller soldering iron, alligator clamp station, etc. My problem is as much as I try to keep the shrink tubing away from where I'm soldering, invariably it ends up shrinking before I can finish soldering. I have a clunky heat sink, at least that's what I think it's called, to keep this from happening, but for the really small wires/connections, it gets in the way more than it helps and often squashes the plastic around the leads therefore exposing them (which in theory would then be covered by the tubing but shouldn't get squashed in the first place).

 

I wonder if the Learning Annex offers classes on soldering...

 

Dan

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Ah ha. I see your rub. I would try a couple things. First, increase the temperature of your iron. This will hopefully apply a larger amount of heat to a more localized area for a shorter amount of time - not allowing the rest of the wire to heat up as much.

 

If that doesn't work, try a poor man's heat sink. Cut a small piece of paper towel, the diameter of the length of wire you wish to protect. Soak it in water and wrap it around the wire several times. This is obviously a bit more time consuming, but it just might work.

 

I'd definitely like to know what Sensei Bartell suggests as I have encountered this problem myself with varying degrees of success and failure.

 

Best,

Afton

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I'd definitely like to know what Sensei Bartell suggests as I have encountered this problem myself with varying degrees of success and failure.

 

Best,

Afton

 

Yes. this happens to me too (like yesterday, for example). I have several ways to deal with it (no heat sinks involved).

 

1. Use larger tubing. It's tempting to use the size closest to the wire, but it's not really necessary as most tubing will shrink quite a bit. If it is larger is makes less contact with the wire and so conducts less heat .

 

2. Use a shorter piece of tubing. I have a tendency to make the piece too long which prevents being able to keep it far enough away from the solder point. Figure out exactly how much you need and use that much and no more. It isn't usually necessary to insulate the pin all the way down to the plastic insert, just where there is a reasonable chance of shorting between the wires.

 

3. Frequently you can slide the outer insulation of the cable back 1/4" or so. This enables you to slide the tubing farther away from the solder joint until you are done soldering. Then just push it back into place before you put the connector shell on.

 

4. If at all possible, pre-tin (solder coat) the wire before putting the tubing on and soldering it to the connector. This makes the soldering go much faster so less heat is transferred. But be careful because sometimes this will make the wire too large to fit into the pin, so this isn't always feasible.

 

Jim "no tubing shrinkage here" Bartell

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Yup, agree with Sir Jim,

 

I always tin the wire.

 

Then apply heat and solider to the connector, and as a combined effort; insert the wire into the connector and remove the heat. Usually ends up being about the same time. Just make sure the solider 'flow's' Only use just enough heat to get the job done....

 

Chris Konash

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I have all the right tools (I think) short of a heat gun including the nice Weller soldering iron, alligator clamp station, etc. My problem is as much as I try to keep the shrink tubing away from where I'm soldering, invariably it ends up shrinking before I can finish soldering. I have a clunky heat sink, at least that's what I think it's called, to keep this from happening, but for the really small wires/connections, it gets in the way more than it helps and often squashes the plastic around the leads therefore exposing them (which in theory would then be covered by the tubing but shouldn't get squashed in the first place).

 

I wonder if the Learning Annex offers classes on soldering...

 

So what am I, chopped liver?!

I have all tool needed, as well as mucho experience. And contracting me to do this sort of thing qualifies as a mitzvah. So call me

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So what am I, chopped liver?!

 

No, but when my back finally gives out I need something I can do for a living. Not to mention, I find it a valuable skill to know and it's rather relaxing when I DON'T FREAKIN' MELT SOLDER ALL OVER THE DAMN CONNECTORS AND SHRINK THE TUBING AROUND MY FREAKIN' FINGERS...

 

I come to you for the stuff I rely on, everything else is practice and backup.

 

Respectfully (two fist thumps on my heart raised to a peace sign),

Dan

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So what am I, chopped liver?!

I have all tool needed, as well as mucho experience. And contracting me to do this sort of thing qualifies as a mitzvah. So call me

 

 

 

 

 

Hey Fred,

 

Still waiting for my Archos cable.

 

I was wondering if Dan were to have you do his soldering, would be ahead of, or behind the cable I've been waiting for since July? (Pre-paid of course)

 

 

Chris Konash

(Insert pissed smiley face here)

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What's up chaps!

Here's a little heat sink that is small enough to work on tiny connectors and not get in the way

 

www.mcmaster.com item 7689A13

 

I have a Hakko 936 soldering station that is fantastic. I also spent the money on the tip cleaner that looks like a steel (brass)wool. It cleans the tip much better than a sponge and doesn't decrease the tip temp.

I always flux the contact before tinning. This accelerates heating the contact for quick tinning.

I've also adapted some Noga "type" arms to accomodate alligator clips that allow me to hold cables or connectors at any angle any where. These were cheap. In fact I have a few extra if anyone is interested.

They have magnetic bases with an ON/OFF switch so if you have a thin sheet of steel as a base these arms won't budge. That's a really nice feature. There's nothing worse than having your clamp base move around as you try to solder.

 

The other big issue for me early on in my soldering career was using cheap shrink tubing. The cheap stuff doesn't shrink much and becomes very stiff. Spend the extra change for a nice variety pack from

 

BTX, McMaster Carr, RS Electronics or Digi-key

 

post-282-1171731172_thumb.jpgpost-282-1171731213_thumb.jpg

 

As Jim Bartell already knows I'm embarking on a major project involving mounting my Preson MDR on the bottom of my AR sled and running a 30 conductor cable on the outside of my post to a small break out box at camera will allow for 2 motors, camera and serial output. So I'm off to my soldering Dungeon for the next several weeks. So I'll be practicing all the little techniques everyone here has mentioned. If I have any epiphanies I'll be sure to relay them.

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Hey Chris;

 

Don't feel alone in this world,

 

I'm still waiting on my Archos cable too (after 2 or 3 attempts, none of them work 100%)

pretty much the same time :(

 

Dan, good luck in that quest, at least you've been well advised

 

Jim, planning to go LA soon, wondering if I can pass by

 

Edgar

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