Premium Members Daniel Abboud Posted May 30, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted May 30, 2007 Can anyone please tell me what thrust bearings are for??? (do they sit in the Gimble atop the arm post?) Thanks! -Dan. Quote
Premium Members Eric Fletcher S.O.C. Posted May 30, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted May 30, 2007 Can anyone please tell me what thrust bearings are for??? (do they sit in the Gimble atop the arm post?) They are for low cost arms and gimbals..... Quote
Premium Members Daniel Abboud Posted May 30, 2007 Author Premium Members Report Posted May 30, 2007 Can anyone please tell me what thrust bearings are for??? (do they sit in the Gimble atop the arm post?) They are for low cost arms and gimbals..... Granted I didn't pay $75G's for my rig, but I'm new at this and I have a respectable Masters sled and IIIa arm and I 'm having a problem with the arm post binding in it. Will thrust bearings help the gimble to swivel on the arm post easier??? Thanks for whatever help you can offer! -Dan. Quote
Premium Members Eric Fletcher S.O.C. Posted May 31, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted May 31, 2007 Can anyone please tell me what thrust bearings are for??? (do they sit in the Gimble atop the arm post?) They are for low cost arms and gimbals..... Granted I didn't pay $75G's for my rig, but I'm new at this and I have a respectable Masters sled and IIIa arm and I 'm having a problem with the arm post binding in it. Will thrust bearings help the gimble to swivel on the arm post easier??? Thanks for whatever help you can offer! -Dan. Not to the freedom a pro arm or a g50/70 will. You are better off with a delrin or teflon ring Quote
Premium Members Jerry Holway Posted May 31, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted May 31, 2007 Daniel- Eric is right, a Delrin or Teflon ring is the ticket - a thrust bearing is way too thick and therefore the arm post will put too much stress on the gimbal handle - it will snap at the clamp. I would suggest a 1/16th inch or less thick Delrin washer - but you could go to your local hardware store and test the idea with a 10 cent Nylon washer. Nylon isn't as tough as Delrin, but it's close enough in slipperyness, and you probably won't want the gimbal to arm post completely free. The other thing to do is be sure your gimbal handle and any post you insert into it are free of bumps or distortions that can bind; you may need to use light sanding or emery cloth to keep everything from binding or galling. The problem gets worse if the hard anodizing (the black coating) is sanded away; the aluminum that remains is relatively soft and is easier to dent and gall and be worse than before. Jerry Quote
Premium Members Daniel Abboud Posted June 1, 2007 Author Premium Members Report Posted June 1, 2007 Daniel- Eric is right, a Delrin or Teflon ring is the ticket - a thrust bearing is way too thick and therefore the arm post will put too much stress on the gimbal handle - it will snap at the clamp. I would suggest a 1/16th inch or less thick Delrin washer - but you could go to your local hardware store and test the idea with a 10 cent Nylon washer. Nylon isn't as tough as Delrin, but it's close enough in slipperyness, and you probably won't want the gimbal to arm post completely free. The other thing to do is be sure your gimbal handle and any post you insert into it are free of bumps or distortions that can bind; you may need to use light sanding or emery cloth to keep everything from binding or galling. The problem gets worse if the hard anodizing (the black coating) is sanded away; the aluminum that remains is relatively soft and is easier to dent and gall and be worse than before. Jerry Thanks Jerry! I have a few delrin washers. Using one didn't really help. The problem must be that the arm post isn't annodized and the annodizing in the gimble is pretty thin too. The arm post is a custom made piece because I'm using a IIIa arm with a Masters Sled. Would a post clamp help?? Quote
Premium Members Jerry Holway Posted June 1, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted June 1, 2007 Would a post clamp help?? Dan - don't think so. Anodizing is also slick; this sounds like what's required. Hard anodizing adds about .002 to the diameter of a post (.001 thickness to a part surface), so be sure the part is .738 +.000, -.002 in diameter BEFORE anodizing. Jerry Quote
Premium Members joe mcnally Posted June 1, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted June 1, 2007 Hi Daniel if you really want to go for an arm post bearing then this might be worth considering http://www.baer-bel.de/deutsch/deutsch.html. Easy to fit and will add a new dimension to your mod 111 of efp arm Joe Quote
Premium Members Joshua Harrison Posted June 2, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted June 2, 2007 I use this on the post just below the clamp, it's much smoother than a nylon/teflon washer or delrin ring. Jerry is this what you are referring to? And if so how does this affect the gimble handle? thanks, Josh Quote
Premium Members Jerry Holway Posted June 2, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted June 2, 2007 I use this on the post just below the clamp, it's much smoother than a nylon/teflon washer or delrin ring. Jerry is this what you are referring to? And if so how does this affect the gimble handle? thanks, Josh I was referring to a thrust bearing in the handle; your bearing scheme has no effect on that. With your system, be cautious of two things: the arm post clamp can't be properly tightened, so it isn't taking the load it was designed to take. If the screw is loose, you will get flexing and fatigue. The other is that the thrust bearing isn't fully supported by the arm; you might want to add another (inexpensive) washer at the bottom of the stack. Jerry Quote
Premium Members Joshua Harrison Posted June 2, 2007 Premium Members Report Posted June 2, 2007 Thanks I'll do that. :) Joshua Quote
Premium Members Daniel Abboud Posted June 3, 2007 Author Premium Members Report Posted June 3, 2007 Thanks I'll do that. :) Joshua Hey Joshua, that stack looks like it'll help...thanks! d'you have any favourite places to buy a post collar? Quote
Ale Reynoso Posted April 2 Report Posted April 2 On 5/31/2007 at 9:45 AM, Jerry Holway said: Daniel- Eric is right, a Delrin or Teflon ring is the ticket - a thrust bearing is way too thick and therefore the arm post will put too much stress on the gimbal handle - it will snap at the clamp. I would suggest a 1/16th inch or less thick Delrin washer - but you could go to your local hardware store and test the idea with a 10 cent Nylon washer. Nylon isn't as tough as Delrin, but it's close enough in slipperyness, and you probably won't want the gimbal to arm post completely free. The other thing to do is be sure your gimbal handle and any post you insert into it are free of bumps or distortions that can bind; you may need to use light sanding or emery cloth to keep everything from binding or galling. The problem gets worse if the hard anodizing (the black coating) is sanded away; the aluminum that remains is relatively soft and is easier to dent and gall and be worse than before. Jerry Hi Jerry!!! Just found this by chance. It´s a way too old post, but: "a thrust bearing is way too thick and therefore the arm post will put too much stress on the gimbal handle - it will snap at the clamp" Would you please explain this? I´ve seen regular use of bearings like the "Luna Arm post bearing". Which effect of the bearing could lead to a failure? Thanks!!! Quote
Premium Members Jerry Holway Posted Saturday at 07:07 PM Premium Members Report Posted Saturday at 07:07 PM Ale- All suggestions were referring to old gimbals which had a split clamp on the bottom of the handle. With the height of the thrust bearing, there would be too little of the arm post into the "solid" part of the hole in the gimbal handle; it would be potentially dangerous with a heavy sled. Probably more okay now with the many gimbal handles 1 Quote
Ale Reynoso Posted Saturday at 07:13 PM Report Posted Saturday at 07:13 PM Ah! OK I got it Thank you!!!!!! Best regards! Ale Quote
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