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SK1 and SK2 - All about


Nikk Hearn-Sutton SOC

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Hi Mitch, I have an SK2, I am using Anton Bauers, I want to keep the camera battery for the camera only and use the sled battery for the monitor and light, I did not want to use the connector on the gold mount (sled battery=looong cord) I figured the lemo connector was used to power the camera anyway, so I thought the minifill light would be ok, should I stay away from the stage lemo connector? If I have to run a long cord I guess I could live with it, would prefer only going from stage to light, instead of lower sled area up to camera, don't want to burn anything up though.

 

Thanks

Mike

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<much endorsement snipped>

 

Ahhhh.... you guys are the best!! Thanx for the props, Mitch and Kurt. :D

 

Michael: You specified that your sled is an SK2, correct?

The 4-pin accessory output is a HIROSE connector, not a LEMO.

 

The cable you describe is PCS item #61085, $65 at 24". I use MOGAMI multi-core cable. Evalucon brand HRS-type connectors, and the XLR's are NEUTRIK gold.

 

What can I say? I'm queer for gear.

 

Same day service, next day shipping if you order before 2PM PST.

 

(Availability and turnaround time liable to change pending my workload on any given day, but I do

pretty well)

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The small 4-pin Hirose connector can NOT supply the 4 Amps. But the connector you normally use for powering your camera can.

 

Use the cable you would use for a camera: Sled to 4-pin XLR female, pin 1=0, pin 4=+.

 

Check with a multimeter and you will probably find that the battery is connected directly to the power output on the top of the stage.

 

Mikael (1 is zero 4 is plus) Kern

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My records show two, 2-pin connectors on Steadicams, both LEMOs. One small, (size 0), the other larger (size 2).

 

The larger one is specified to power a HighSpeed base. I've not built a cable from this port to a XLR, but easily could.

 

The smaller AUX power output is used to power Follow Focus units (BFD). Could this port handle thecurrent draw?

Pin 1 = +12, pin 2=Ground.

To a 4-pin XLR (1=G, 4=+12), #C60195 $75

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I would use the standard 4-pin Hirose to XLR to power the light because in a pince you can use this to power the camera as well if you so choose. But in reality, I wouldn't do either if I could avoid it. I would power just the monitor (plus transmitter, remote focus and whatever other accessories) off of the sled and power both the camera and the light upon it from the camera battery. When I suggested powering the light off the A/B battery plate, I was refering to the one one the back of the camera, not on the bottom of the sled. Even if your camera does not have an A/B plate it likely still has the 2-pin jack for powering lights. This is how most people power lights when shooting handheld. That light is a pretty high drain for your sled batteries. Better not to torture your sled bricks and instead do so to the camera's bricks. This also prevents dragging high power loads through your sled circuitry and instead sucks it straight out of a battery for max efficiency and least possible wear.

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Mike,

 

Even though there are no electronics in the sk2 sled (Other than the Monitor), I would not power a 4A load from the sled wiring. The sk2 uses 22-28 gauge wiring (depending on where it is routed) and the risk of the wire going up in smoke, or at least melting the outer jacket, is a possibliity.

 

Just a heads up.. :unsure: but it could work.

 

Charles

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Not to repeat myself, but Mitch are you sure about that 4 pin Hirose? If it's the one i'm thinking of, it is there only to power either a video tap or video transmitter while also giving or receiving a video signal. This connector is not designed to run more than a couple of watts. Forget about 50watts, you're definately in for a frying, as Fred pointed out, there's no way that small Hirose can handle the current.

 

Best like you said is off the AB plate on the camera just like the video guys do.

 

Also, as Fred suggested, possibly the large 2p Lemo for the Hi-speed base. On my Master I used the Large 2p Lemo Isolated 12v on the back of the top stage to power kino-Flo tubes and the like. This always worked very well, even with a full 35mm package, couple of lens motors, the whole works. I would mount the ballast on top of the camera. Worked well, and always scored points w/ the Gaffer and DP. I always had that 12v isolated cable w/ a 4p XLR ready for stuff like this.

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Hi all, I am getting slightly confused, I am talking about powering the light from the "2 pin " connector on the stage itself, not the "four pin" that runs through the post with an open "four pin" at the bottom to invert the lower section for low mode. Are both of them a "fry" scenario?

 

PS . the "2pin" connector on the stage is not "large" it is the same diameter as the other connector (the 4 pin underneath the cap at bottom of post), but only has 2 pins.

 

Thanks

Mike

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Okay, final answer.

 

This is straight from the horse's mouth. Not to say Robert Orf @ TIFFEN is a horse, ya unnerstand,.... but you know what I'm sayng.

 

He confirms that you have two options for 12V power appropriate for running that light.

 

1) The small (Size 0) 2-pin: 1=+, 2=G

2) The larger (Size 1) 4-pin under the cap at the bottom: 1=Vid shield, 2=Vid signal, 3=+12VDCD, 4=DCGrnd

 

Both ports take current direct from the battery. As such, a 50W, 4amp draw is gonna drain 'em pretty quick.

 

Slight correctiuon: The MOGAMI quad I usually use is 26AWG, 24AWG for the mic cable.

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