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Custom battery mount for Archer...


Peter Hoare

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Hi Rick, not spoken in a while, hows it going?

 

We will measure Eds rig with a CMM machine, capable of accuracy up to three microns. Even a layer of grease on the rods will affect the reading, so we dont have an accuracy issue unless Ed has bent his rods up badly. We can always take the rods out and measure the channels the rods run through. Should be fine unless every archer is different, which I find hard to believe. It could be that one of your rods was slightly bent outwards so the reading came out wrong? Tiffen have told me 50mm between centres, so im going to go with this figure, and design this as an open clamp to compensate. Possibly two open hook shapes on either side with a claw clamp to lock it in or something creative and nice to look at.

 

If anyone needs anything else just let me know, We can literally make anything, you should see some of the parts this company make for F1 cars, real works of art some of them.

 

 

Pete.

 

 

 

I have an Archer base if you want to keep it as a test unit for any batches etc...

Could be that I measured mine wrongly, infact, I think the engineer who made mine did something similar for someone else shortly after, and he measured it with a greater accuracy. The one Alan had off me took a bit of effort to get on the rods, but it didn't phase me as it lived on there...

 

Make me an offer if you want, it's just sitting here doing nothing.

 

Rick.

 

 

Hi Matteo,

 

Well we can get a plate with a tap plug on it. If you really want I could probably machine a pocket and set a lemo connector into it for power output.

 

Once I have an archer in hand I will design the bits, make one to check it works, post some photos and then you can say if you want one or not. Once I get the archer infront of me, probably will take a week to get a prototype done, and then depending on how many people want, will take a few days to get the rest made up. The machine runs overnight so we can load it up and go home come back next day with them all finished. Clever eh?

 

What colour do you want? ha.

 

 

I think there have to be a lot of homebuilding skill in each steadicam op.

 

Peter, thanks for the great piece of machinery available and for helping the comunity, how do you want to connect the power out of this plate to the system? I'm interested in this even without the power connection because it's very helpful for the balance.

when do you think they're going to be available?

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Hi Peter

 

So this 50mm makes sense. I did my measures with a school ruler but if you subtract 15mm (one rod diameter since the 50 comes from the center of the rods) from 65 you have the right Tiffen 50mm in between.

Color? Black is always perfect.

Edited by Matteo Quagliano
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So this is my current thought.

 

archerplate.jpg

 

The blue part is a bolted down support, so you can slide it up and down easily. The black part is the clamp, it will have a thumb wheel thing on top. The green plate is 4mm thick and the IDX plate will bolt to this.

 

Should be sturdy and will loosten off with half a turn and slide up and down nice and securely and tighten up quickly.

 

What do we think?

Edited by Peter Hoare
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Hey Pete, I'm good thanks.

 

That's bizarrely exactly the same design as we came up with for the one Alan now has. There were 2 tiny springs under the clamping section to push it back up when the thumb screw was un tightened. Might be worth adding.

 

Great minds ehh!

 

Rick.

 

 

So this is my current thought.

 

archerplate.jpg

 

The blue part is a bolted down support, so you can slide it up and down easily. The black part is the clamp, it will have a thumb wheel thing on top. The green plate is 4mm thick and the IDX plate will bolt to this.

 

Should be sturdy and will loosten off with half a turn and slide up and down nice and securely and tighten up quickly.

 

What do we think?

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Hey Pete, I'm good thanks.

 

That's bizarrely exactly the same design as we came up with for the one Alan now has. There were 2 tiny springs under the clamping section to push it back up when the thumb screw was un tightened. Might be worth adding.

 

Great minds ehh!

 

Rick.

 

 

So this is my current thought.

 

archerplate.jpg

 

The blue part is a bolted down support, so you can slide it up and down easily. The black part is the clamp, it will have a thumb wheel thing on top. The green plate is 4mm thick and the IDX plate will bolt to this.

 

Should be sturdy and will loosten off with half a turn and slide up and down nice and securely and tighten up quickly.

 

What do we think?

post-1015-1241742942_thumb.jpg

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Mm not quite home made...

Pete.

 

I did not mean done in the garage. I just used the word homebuilt to mean that you can have it done and not commercially bought. That is what the homebuiltstabilizer site is all about. I think people read too much into the word as it is. I too have made my stuff using CNC, so my system is very equal to some high end stuff. ;) All I'm saying is just do not take the homebuilstabilizer site for what it is...building is garages with generic tools. That's my point.

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Mm not quite home made...

Pete.

 

I did not mean done in the garage. I just used the word homebuilt to mean that you can have it done and not commercially bought. That is what the homebuiltstabilizer site is all about. I think people read too much into the word as it is. I too have made my stuff using CNC, so my system is very equal to some high end stuff. ;) All I'm saying is just do not take the homebuilstabilizer site for what it is...building is garages with generic tools. That's my point.

 

 

I'm not sure you realize just how much custom machining we all have done

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Hello Pete,

 

I like the design and I think it's the best way to go. I'm definitely in for one like that. Just have a question, if you go out with a power tap then you'll have a cable flying around, is it correct? Or is it possible to connect the 2 plates from tap to tap (there's a tap out in the original battplate)? Anyway I'm not that much in to it for now, I won't go 24v soon and switching batts when needed and there you have it is very fine for me. What I really need it for is balance, ok spare batt taped but something nicer would be better...

 

Very very thanksful for your help...

 

Matteo

 

p.s. Eric, I think Charles was meaning exactly what you said (and me too ;) )

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