Jerry Holway

Matt- True. The Modulus does waste power... I suspect that the devices that make the most use of the higher voltages are DC motors (which can suck lots of power, as we know all too well). Interesting to see what devices really waste power and how much, and what the design trade-offs are. I know that, for instance, the UltraBrite monitor can run off of 28 or 14 volts, but which actually is more efficient... and by how much? Efficiency is also a function of the battery itself, with bigger batteries (all else being equal) dealing with high amps better and delivering more watt-hours. Anton Bauer has a great guide on its website about all that. Jerry

Will, unless I'm crazy.... the Modulus (or camera or light) draws X watts of power regardless of voltage. At a higher voltage (within its limits of design) it draws slighlty fewer amps, and as the voltage drops, the amps go up slightly (until the voltage gets so low that it can't work). So most of the time it doesn't matter what voltage the device gets, it just draws watts and no power is lost. Jerry

Will - I think it's a bit longer than that (84" or more??) to account for the spiral wind... In calculating your voltage drops (comparing long to short sleds), don't forget to add in the length of the power cables (18-24" x 2 typical) from the sled to the camera. One other note: With the Lithium Ion's (any manufacturer's) the nominal voltage is 14.8 vs 14.4 for NiCads, so one has some additional voltage "headroom" plus all the lovely watt-hours. With all but the most power-hungry cameras, we can afford to waste some power (breathe a little easier). Jerry

Not a good idea to mix them for high amp situations. The Endura 10 will suffer or shut down from the high amps of the 435. For low load situations, no problem to mix and match. Jerry

FYI, all the Ultras, Clippers, and Vectors have always had 14 gauge wiring in the posts. (14 is bigger than 16, for those those on the other side of the ponds). It was clearly a necessary part of making an expandable post system viable, exactly for the voltage drop reasons Will points out. Garrett invented the lovely trick for getting a larger gauge wiring up the expandable posts - it's part of the Ultra patent - which made it possible, along with lots of (and various numbers of) coax cables, HDSDI w/out connectors, etc. Jerry

One possible problem - if the transmitter and receiver are not of the same "chip upgrade version" they will not recognise each other. I had this once when an older version transmitter went down and we tried to use the latest upgraded transmitter... no dice Jerry

FYI- The first rigs we (anyone) ever dynamic balanced were 3A's... so it's quite possible... certainly with the fore/aft rack for the bottom electronics and battery. It might also be possible without that rack, but there would be a limited range of positions for the battery and monitor. Jerry

Will- I generally agree with most of your points, and you are certainly on target with all of them. One minor exception is the above. Flexiblity/vibration is related to both the material/construction, post diameter (both inner and outer), and post length - the latter by more or less by the cube law (double the length and it's eight times more flexible). One reason that the Ultra's smallest post diameter is on top is that when it's stressed with a heavy camera, it's typically very short (with less flexing by the cube law), while the sections furthest from the gimbal actually need the biggest and stiffest diameters, again, because the difference in diameters is not as important as the length of the posts. Not intuitive, granted, but true. Flexing in the Ultra top stage can be reduced via the methods you mentioned, and by tightening all screws, and pre-loading the bearings. All vibrations can be reduced using the provided stiffening system, which reduces vibrations from the battery and monitor rods as well. Be sure to tighten everything down well - I've done this many times, and done the wedge trick, too. - But frustrating - hence the new stages in the Clipper twos, Archers, and the Ultra2, as well as improved and stiffer monitor and battery mounts. As for selling the Ultra2 top stage separately... ultimately, I think it's a good idea, but right now I know they are working hard to get them out the door with the rest of the sled attached. Making them backwards compatible is not as easy as it may seem at first blush. There are electrical differences (different connectors, numbers and types) as well as mechanical ones (devils in the details to the nth power), which would require different cabling harnesses or adaptors, all of which have to be designed, tested, thought through. Jerry

Robert- Did you try a bit of lube (teflon spray works well and can't hurt) where the springs meet their holders (one at each end)? Jerry

oops, I should have said the boom range was reduced from the G-type arms; the boom range is 28 inches. Jerry

I've played with it a bit, and it's very nice and iso. I think it lifts from 4-10 pounds total, and makes operating a heavy (for a Merlin) camera into a nothing. Very slick little unit. The bones are shorter than the flyer arm, so the boom range is reduced a tad; but it's no problem for even old guys to bend the knees. Kudo's to Garrett. Again. Jerry

Jonathan- Absolutely stay out of any helicopter with a Steadicam. There are better performing and much-safer-for-everyone tools, FAA certified systems, etc. Steadicam is a really bad and less than safe choice. Just say no. FYI - It's been done before, of course. People have also gone over Niagra Falls in a barrel.... Been done before is not an excuse to be stupid. When you asked the question, you were uninformed but smart enough to ask the question about using a Steadicam in a helicopter. Don't do it and remain smart... and alive. Jerry

Andrew- Your questions are too broad... what to buy depends on too many things beyond the camera you bought. You should first and foremost go to a 2 day "Flyer" workshop by Peter Abraham (click on the Steadicam logo at the top of the page). In the workshop you will learn how to use a Steadicam well, have a solid foundation and understanding, and then you can make an informed choice on what to buy. It will be your best investment, saving you lots of time, angst, and cash. Jerry

Andre- As the head instructor for both workshops, I think I can answer your question pretty well. The course is basically the same, with some small differences - each place takes advantage of its location. Both are 5 1/2 to six day, very intensive workshops; typically 10-12 hours each day, and a minimum of one instructor and "full sized" rig per 4 students, plus Flyers and Merlins and instructor's rigs, extra vests, etc. Garrett typically shows up for awhile at the SOA workshops; but he often visits at the Malibu one as well. At the SOA wokshops, other "East Coast" ops show up from time to time. Various ops (and vendors) from LA typically show up at the Malibu workshop. The SOA workshop has the Skyman? experience... Either way, there's way more to teach and experience than we have time for. I think the venue for the next "Malibu" workshop will not be in Malibu; the Tiffen website will soon have the details, dates, etc. I'm told it's going to be in late March; the next SOA workshop is in May. And there's a workshop with Garrett as the head instructor in Locarno, Switzerland in early February (again, same general format, interesting location, great instructors, etc.). Jerry

A small bit of info that might be helpful- The Clipper, Clipper two, and Vector are all variations of the Ultra... you can read the literature to find out exactly which features each has/does not have vis a vis the Ultra. The Clipper 24 even has some features of the Ultra2 (clamps, monitor mount). All these rigs work with film or video cameras, and all can carry any weight camera we typically use, including the Genesis, BL-IV, and the like. The weight limits in the specs are for the systems, and the upper weight limit is set by the arm, not the sled. Get a "big" arm, and you are good to go. No problems. Even the Archer sled can handle a lot more weight than the specifications. With the Archer, the upper weight limit is set by two factors: you need to add extra weight (via a custom mount) to the base and you need a big arm to do the lifting. That's why there are some 24volt versions for those that want to fly 24volt film cameras... Jerry

digikey www.digikey.com good luck Jerry

G-50 arm goes down to 12 pounds TOTAL load with virtually no change in performance... so with your sled, batteries, and 10-12 pound camera... you're completely good. No, great, with a huge boom range to boot. Jerry

Full moon on the 5th. Dynamic balance is either impossible or automatic with a full moon, I forget which. (also a product of the full moon). Jerry

I believe the 24 volt conversion bit for the Ultra is $1650; I'd email Frank Rush for a quote. I think you can also get a deal on 6 powercubes and 2 quad chargers... but I don't have a clue on the price. And no, I don't think the price is bad at all by itself; but I agree with Mark and Charles that it is hard to switch if you've just invested a lot of $$ in some other system... For instance, while waiting for the PowerCubes to come out, I ended up recelling several of my Ultra NICad batteries, and I should probably recell one or two more (ugh!!) before I attempt to sell them and the chargers off. To "fairly" compare the two battery choices you mention above: The four 28.8 Volt Ultra NiCad batteries are 55Whr batts, so you have 210 Watt hours total. They fully charge in 40-45 minutes, one at a time per charger, and they don't mind heavy loads. The 6 powercubes have just under 600 watthours total, and they charge in 2.6 hours... or 1.5 hours to 80% (which is 80 Watt hours per battery) on simultaneous chargers. You are going to switch out pairs of PowerCubes much less often than you'd switch out the Nicads, and have more effective charging than with the NiCads, and have no worries about heavy power draws. You can also get/rent/borrow Endura 10's and 7's (the latter for a light weight running rig), extra chargers, etc. fairly easily. Jerry

I agree that it's hefty (prohibitive?), unless one is faced with any number of circumstances, including cameras that won't run (or run well) with one's current battery scheme, one is faced with a lot of re-celling because one's batteries are old, one can sell his "old" chargers and batteries, can take advantage of a tax break, chargers blew up, gear run over, etc. etc. This is the same sort of situation we're all faced with with all other gear as it loses its usefulness compared to the newest toy on the block. Some ops still use Model II's and EFP's and other rigs and equipment that they bought new decades ago, because it doesn't make economic or operating sense to them to change. They can live (and even thrive) without. Charles's comments on the Genesis-not-all-up and the Dionics and Hytrons are just the sort of facts we need to hear in this forum. And his and other's opinions are also valid. My opinion: the price for the PowerCubes is fair - it represents the engineering effort and costs to get them to our small market ? something no other battery company was willing to tackle two years ago; it was either too expensive, impossible/improbable, not enough market or whatever, the fact is no one else took the risk or made the effort. Now they are here, certainly a wonderful thing for those that are buying a new rig, (upgrading?) and as big an expense as it should be for those that feel (for whatever reasons) they they should retrofit their older rigs to this new technology. FYI, battery mounts for IDX can be had pretty cheaply to make your own conversions. Jerry

Mark- On the manufacfturing side, I doubt if IDX (and therefore Tiffen) has any incentive to make the PowerCubes in AB mounts. They've just invested huge amounts of cash in a technology for a relatively small group of consumers and they need to promote their whole system. Hard to blame them for that. From the individual consumer's POV, it's always the case that if one has invested lots of cash in one technology, it's hard to justify throwing that away for the next advance. I, for one, resisted going with the Dionics in spite of several advantages because, in part, I had just heavily invested in my Ultra NiCad batteries. At that time I also faced, as you do now, the extra expense and time of conversion - throwing away a technology I had invested in. I was not happy with the Dionic high amp limitations, but I was really conflicted as the power density of the Dionics was really tempting. The same dilemma exists every time a new idea is dragged out: is it worth selling (dumping) your "old" and perfectly good arm for the best arm on the planet, Focus system A for focus system B, sled for sled, etc. It's always a choice, and some of us jump on the bandwagon for certain things, others for others. And when we do, we shout the praises of our decisions, because we're happy that we have the new thing, damn the expense. The great news is that people have more good choices all the time, and when your Dionics die off and you are faced with recelling or changing, you may have even more choices. Jerry

Oh, boy, now I'm in it. I always say we tend to teach the way we do (camera on the left) because that's how we were taught in the days when it was tough to flip to goofy and back... Regardless, one possible reason for right handed folks to operate "normally" (and lefties to go goofy) is that it's the "dominant" hand that is best at sensing where it is in space (as babies we learned eye-hand coordination grabbing with the dominant hand). All that really matters is that the operator is happy with the side onehe/she normally operates on, and eye dominance and foot dominance all play a part. Although right handed, I''m left eye dominant, and I was a left-handed pole vaulter way back when, who knows why? I should also state that at the workshops we teach, we force the students to practice dances and shots both ways, for two reasons. First and foremost is to find the side you like best. Secondly, once in a while it's much, much easier to operate on that other side for some shots - if you are comfortable with it, i.e., trained to do it and you practice. As I am forced to practice going goofy at least once a workshop, I'm fairly confident with my skills, so I would probably consider it an option and flip sooner than most. Ambivadextrously yours, Jerry

David- Some of the questions I feel I can answer well, others are for Tiffen. I assembled, disassembled, and re-assembled several of the prototype arms myself, both G-50's and 70's, as part of the testing, and it's real easy to do. Removing the springs is done with a socket wrench, or with a screw gun fitted with a socket, and that goes really fast -about two seconds. An allen wrench gets the trunions. But I suspect blowing it out with nitrogen or dry air would do for most cleaning issues. I think it would fare no better or worse if dragged in the dirt than other arms. Same for sand, salt, etc. Keep that stuff out of the arm, and if it gets in accidentally, take things apart and clean and lube. Because there are no pulleys, cables, etc., there's a lot less to go wrong, easier to get apart, etc. If it were to go completely under salt water (oops!) I'd spray it all with fresh water (or dunk it), especially the springs, dry it as best I could, take it apart, blow air all over it, lubricate, etc. and probably send it back to the factory unassembled for them to evaluate. Unless I had another shot to do... Get the steel socket block if you have a back mounted vest, regardless of the arm you are using. It may be the only way you can get the G-70 arm right now anyway... must check with Tiffen. A lot of noise about titanium springs on the forum a while back; all I know is that a titanium spring in a destruction test required grinding half way through it before it gave way (a surprise that it took so much grinding, actually)... although a large, signifcant nick would not be a good thing. I don't think the springs need kid glove treatment, just avoid jamming screwdrivers and other sharp objects into them... I don't plan on doing anything special when I get my G-70 that I don't do now with my Ultra arm.. I keep it in the supplied bag inside the vest when travelling and for storage. I don't expect anything in the arm to ever wear out, including the springs, and any routine cleaning I expect to do myself. I like teflon grease, teflon oils, and sprays, and ACF-50. Nothing in the arm, vest, or sled or accessories should ever see WD-40 or other penetrating oils, and I'd only use the other stuff if something started squeaking (because it was dragged in the dirt). I hope this helps. Jerry

but what does the F Bracket do, that simply flipping the rig (and flipping footage in post) doesn't already do? The original J-bracket and the F-brackets and D-brackets return the arm to the its normal position in a gap between the battery and camera. This is especially important if the gimbal is high near the camera (its typical position), as flipping to low mode without a bracket will leave the arm next to the camera, and you will not be able to switch, panning and tilting hit the arm sooner, etc. The other thing the brackets do is get the lens lower, and you can use this fact creatively: either to get the lens lower (the typical use) or to get the lens higher in low mode (don't use the bracket!) Jerry

Paul- The conversion kits are on the shelf... that's how I bought mine. I suggest always two chargers - the IDX VL 4-S is the one get get. I've gone through 1 and a half sets of 2 batteries in a day so far, but with a Genesis it would be more. For odd reasons, I have 9 batteries; six would do in most cases, eight for almost anything. Full charge from full discharge (and you generally don't fully discharge to 11 volts) takes 2.5 to 3 hours... but in 2 hours you have 80% charge, so it's hard to see how one might run dry with either 3 or 4 sets of batteries. For special jobs far from electricity and w/out high amp loads, rent more endura 10's... Jerry