Erwin Landau

FYI: By accident I tripped over a little nifty addition to our kit in the Film and Digital Times (Sept. 2006) by Jon Fauer. (Pictured on page 11). T-handle Tie-Down Screwdriver designed for and sold by: Boston Camera... Talk to Ben Woodard. http://www.bostoncamera.com/ I don't think there is a picture on the website anymore, or not yet... It sells for $19.95 and it's red by the way... I ordered a couple. Erwin

I didn't wanted to go there... but yeah... or paid for. "We are giving you less per hour then last year and as a thank you, you will throw in the rig for free... Deal? If not, I can call one of the other 20 guys in cue."

Lately, if you watch the credits, it says most of the time just Camera operator. The only way to know who the steadicam op was is if you know that he or she does also steadicam. It seams that of late the steadicam has become so integrated into the production package that it's not mentioned separately. And in TV... the camera department is not mentioned at all...

Hey Rob, I saw a report a couple of weeks ago about the increase of theft of portable devices like I-pods, Digital Cameras but especially GPS units out of parked cars in the LA area. In the last 2 months almost 300 incidents have been reported... the LAPD is guessing that the not reported cases are double. Two break ins in my "gated" building last month alone. Both portable GPS units left on the dash board. Mainly cars with factory style alarms are targeted because they do not have glass activated alarm (microphones are sensitive to knocking on or breaking glass) test by using your car key and knock on the window. The thief can smash the window without the alarm ever being triggered (you can buy glass spikes at your local Pep Boys and it's almost silent). As long as the door, and the circuit stay closed... no horn or nothing. The give away are usually cables, chargers that are still plugged in, GPS holders etc. because usually people just leave them in the glove box... again the thief just need to knock with a key on your window to figure out if the alarm will be triggered. I opted for a dashboard build in Pioneer unit (Charles stop laughing... Yes I got one, after my endeavor in northern California, and direction like that: "Just take the second street from the freeway exit and keep driving until you see a flag and then look for the trucks". Honest, that was the directions on the "map") and my Alarm comes beside the immobilizer also with a microphone based glass alarm and no; the Trash-truck will not initiate the alarm only direct contact with glass will. Anyhow, sorry to hear about your break in... I had three so far (into my old Rabbit). Two again in my gated apartment building over the period of 8 years. Take care and good luck, Erwin

You do it you get credit for it... you don't... you don't get the credit. period. I was several times hired as just the Steadicam guy and ended up operating the A or B camera instead or even the crane... no steadi credit. Or both ergo steadi/camera. The moment you pick up the rig and you do a shot, you can get the credit. Also if you are not the main operator I use "additional Steadicam operator". Usually you get credited if you are the guy with the most days, if other operators were also working on the project.

Hi Themis, First of all, please change your Login name to your real first and last name (I send you a message how). You are referring to the regular operating position versus goofy. Todays 2 handed operating position (Arm attached to the right side of the Vest, Sled hanging/floating to he left side of your body, right hand on the Gimbal handle, left hand on the center post) is a derivation from the original one handed operating style (used by Garrett and all first Generation operators. Arm attached to the right side of the Vest with right hand on the center post, also back then you can find grooved Center-post grips for a better grip, and Garrett is a right hander). The Steadicam Support arm was supporting, as the original name states, the weight of the steadicam with Camera attached and made longer operating less fatiguing to the right operating hand. Also by using your right hand you stayed on the smart side of the Camera as you would with regular operating, and instead of looking through a viewfinder, you where using the little monitor that was attached at the camera in place of the viewfinder. (Later the monitor moved to the now familiar position, at the bottom of the sled). The one handed operating style persisted until 1979/80 when Garrett was slated to start filming on "The Shinning". Kubrick requested some intricate moves (which also led to the development of the Universal 2 model to facilitate low mode which was achieved by separating the monitor from the sled, no shaving mirrors as with the model 1) that required more controls (Watch the movie!) which ultimately let Garrett to move the Sled over to the left side of the body, gripping the Gimbal handle with his right and allowing more dexterity to go to the center post via the left hand (way more control and ease of operating). The 2 handed style or the now know standard operating position was born. It also didn't require major mechanical changes... exempt for a smooth Wrap grip on the center post... And most operators adapted the new style and use it to this day. We also still use the single hand style, even if it's only for running purposes... Over the years it became personal preference to use the regular or the goofy operating style. On all Cinema Products Workshops you where encouraged to try the other side just to figure out what works better for you and for the purposes of a fully rounded operating experience to be able to operate on both sides ergo expending your operating repertoire... So put it were it feels better. Sorry about the history lesson, Hope it helps, Erwin

Alejandro, In every bodily activity there is "good" pain (from: burning muscles, exhaustion, fatigue) and "bad" pain (from injury, like ripped muscles, ten-tends, inflammation, injured bone-skin, etc.). If it's good pain that means that your body is starting to respond and adapt... if it's bad pain than either your form is not up to speed, the vest is not adjusted properly, etc and the added stress of weight is putting strain on your body that will leave lasting damages. Did you take a workshop and learn the right basics and operating form necessary? Does your Vest fit perfectly? Anything less will hurt! ... a lot. Do you have the right Vest? Inferior or severely used vests will act like old sneakers from another person... no support... ergo pain in the long run. Do you warm up and stretch before you put on your gear and add a significant amount of weight to your body? The slogan: "No pain, no gain" still holds true. But it has to be the good pain. Your body has to adapt to the new and never experienced added weight... Your lower back will hurt in the beginning and as you get more experienced your back will get used to it as well as your hips, knees and ankles... the other points that have to be looked after because most of the times it's one of the last three that you will injure before your back. Steadicam operating is a full time occupation and you have to prepare your body as well as your mind (the camera operating part, like composition, balance, framing, etc) for this line of work. Great ways to improve your body and your mind (the mind set, beside watching every movie conceivable) are any kind of martial arts as well as Tai-chi and Yoga... great for foot work, balance and concentration. Try it. Good Luck! Sincerely, Erwin

I'm willing to separate & sell individually Call (310)429-5954. John

Darn... Doc and Robert... so much for keeping a secret!!!!

Working in feature films, the average set up will be anywhere between 75 lbs and 85 lbs (34kg and 38kg)... my current bread and butter Camera is the Arriflex 535. If you are doing HD productions (single camera cinema style not ENG) the weight are in the mid to high 90ies... sometimes approaching 100 lbs (45 kg)... That weight is meant for Vest, Arm, Sled, Camera, Lens, Magazine, Follow Focus, Transmitter, Cinetape, etc all the crap that they think you should have on your rig. If you are serious about Steadicam as a full time job, you will have to get used to it and still frame and compose shots all day long for 12 hours and be able to walk home at the end of the day and come back 5 to 6 days a week for 6 weeks to up to 12 months... If it would be easy, everybody would do it... Good luck, Erwin

New or Used? Used: - Check this forum under classifieds - http://www.steadicam-ops.com/database/soaClassMain.php - http://www.steadiforum.com/ - http://www.whitehousesteadisales.com/index.html - http://www.mk-v.com/steadicam_for_sale/sec...dicam_sales.htm New... check the manufacturers list: - http://www.landaucamera.com/links.htm Hope that helps. Erwin

Oh, he actually already advertised: http://www.steadicamforum.com/forums/index...?showtopic=6619 http://www.steadicamforum.com/forums/index...?showtopic=6620

I was working for years with the cheapo Handheld monitors (Radio shack with AB plate)... finally after I destroyed number 6 on set ( I just sold number 7 and 8), I started to look for a professional unit... Remember Transvideo? Anyhow... I was referred to that company by a friend and picked up the prototype (I went with the 7 inch model HP7002) which was modified for me with an Anton Bauer plate, there are 3 power plate to chose from, AB which is now a standard choice, Sony Lithium L and the Sony M (which is the one that the new Preston unit uses). The unit includes an AC power cable and a removable pull out antenna, the Rubber ducky antenna is optional. Rugged enclosure... The unit got dropped twice on the first day... especially the "Sun visor" that doubles as the screen protector... of course the first fall was screen first into the dirt. What the director liked the most... We had 3 cameras rolling... You can black out all but the used channel on the monitor and you can switch with one button between the cameras... He order one later that week. Very bright screen... not bad for under $1000.- out the door... Give it a try... he is local to LA. Close to the I-5 and 134 interchange in Glendale. www.hpvideo.tv And of course... bla, bla, bla... not working for him... bla, bla, bla... just a happy customer... you know the drill. Check it out. Later, Erwin

Cheap rig to buy... cheap camera to rent... A Producers dream. Better you then me... How are the joints holding up?

As I'm sure it's a fine piece of engineering... I wouldn't go that far... Use all the rigs on the market and then make a comment like that.

On a western last month, we where shooting at Disney Ranch... the 2nd AC had already a heat stroke... but the Aaton 35 was next with blown fuses and heat issues... Had no Umbrella because my AC's had destroyed mine on the previous feature up at 9000 feet... all of my components where uncomfortable to touch, but held up fine. I had to turn of my rig to prevent over heating between takes... but never skipped a beat. Last week we where on the tarmac of the Van Nuys Airport, chasing cars and crashing them and it was hitting 135 F... again the people shot down before my equipment did... Stay in the shade and drink a lot of liquids, Erwin

Hey Dave, The best way is still to get them to GPI. They are still recelling the old bricks... and quite some guys still fly them with great results... But if you are looking for an alternative try these guys: Gary & Debby Batteries Plus work 1 (805) 494-8484 work fax 1 (805) 494-8486 work bpmail@batteriesplus312.com work www.batteriesplus.com work 1742 N. Moorpark Road Thousand Oaks CA 91360 They are doing a great job with Anton Bauers... they recelled most of my 30 AB batteries over the years. Mainly NiCad's but Gary figured out who to recell the Hytrons NiMH too. An they recycle the old cells for you for free. FYI: Also If you have any old batteries... they can be dropped of at any IKEA at the Costumer service area. They also take Light bulbs and the lifer saver bulbs as well as printer cartridges... way better then the landfill... Be safe, Erwin

List ..... 3 - PAG / AR 301 Auto Fast Chargers with plates & power cables 8 - 24 volt Ultra Steadicam Batts. 3 - That need to be re-celled 3 - Batts. That hold 4 of the 5 bars &( 2/3rds full ) Are still in great working order for another year or so. 2 - Batts. That hold a full charge (bought a year ago) I've changed to the V- mount for my rig that is why these are for sale. These have never been rented out & have never failed to work for me . $5500.- usd as a package & you pay for shipping & handling My contact info is : John Radzik johnradzik@mac.com OR (310)429-5954c

Rig Engineering Silver Spring Arm For Sale. Has seen light use and is in excellent working condition. All Flat Black Spring Covers, comes with: - Rain/Dust Covers - PRO Style Arm Bag - 5mm T-handle wrench - 5mm Speed wrench - PRO Style Arm Post $10'500.- Contact: Erwin 818-448-2639

Please use your full, real name! Welcome to our Forum but also check out this website: http://homebuiltstabilizers.com/

A common mistake... that lately has defamed many Donkey Boxes... Contact Tom Gleason at Cinewidgets... he is making that piece as GPI does no longer carry it. Good Luck, Erwin

Hi Norbert, The Seitz was before my time... only used it once as an AC... and had it in my hand a couple of times more... Anyhow, I know of a couple of guys that have a Seitz sitting in there garage with all goodies. Contact Colin Hudson, David McGill or Simon Jays. They are all members on this forum... Maybe they can help out.... with goodies or advice. Good Luck with the FF. Erwin

Hi Bo, They (Backstage) finally have something that resembles a Steadicam cart... but ignored most of my ideas. I don't like it much... check it out for yourself... I'm building another one and the one pictured above will be soon for sale. Later, Erwin Generated on my I-Phone

Hey guys, I'm in a town at the Oregon border with no wifi so I'm writing on my I-phone... Anyhow I'm in the town: Weed and I'm staying at the hi-lo motel... Enough said... Oh and the Modulus is SOLD! Later, Erwin

Hi, You are in the netherlands... contact Chris Fawcett or Job Scholtze or some of the local ops. That would be a good start. I did the UCLA extension program here in LA as a foreign student. In my personal opinion was a waste of time and money. Also they are not telling you that you can't work initially as a student. Then you are only allowed to work on campus for the first 9 months... later you can only legally work off campus once you are done with your program and apply for a "practical year" at what point you can't take classes and you can work... but only for one year and then you have to leave the country... Not sure if it's still like that it has been a couple of years since. About the rig... read the archives. Take a workshop which will give an idea where to go from there... No where else in the industry it's more true then here... you get what you pay for. Buy something used and the money will last you way longer... This is just my personal opinion... Hope it makes any sense to you. Good Luck, Erwin