Jon Beattie

Be careful with segways on ebay. Lots of scams. Like us segway users have a good forum. You can find used systems there, from private users, retailers, and tour guides. There are even guys trying to sell cut down handlebar ripoffs of reinhard's. No where near the same thing. As far as the lean controls go there are 2 models (3sets of wheels) i2- pedestrian narrow wheels base model x2 offroad version with nobby or turf tires. noddy will go anywhere and only damage wet grass while turning in place. the turfs are made for golf courses. The turfs are also great on the road. But if you only get one set go for the nobby. the x2 can have any of the 3 wheels mounted on it fine. the i2 only likes the i2 wheels. you can get a new x2 for between 5200-5800 depending on where you look. used from 4600-5200. For the extra few hundred I went new from capital city segway in DC gave me a great deal and service. (they sell more than anyone in the US) You can then just get the lean stick and the hardmount from Germany. Reinhard has been very good to work with. Get the kickstand too. I'm looking into having a company here in the states make their skidplate work with my x2. (batteries are 1200 to replace) the lean control only works with the i2 or x2. the generation1 segways need the pedal control which costs more and requires alittle rewiring. Of course the 2nd gen has been out about a year and a half. the word on how the gen3 will work is really cool and i'm excited and pissed to see what happens. The 3rd gen has been reported to go to a single wheel system (like a dyson vacuum). They say it will move in all directions including side to side. The gen2 is great and i've even used it on a beach. hey in thinking about the gen3, you want to buy my gen2?

The tiffen workshop and the SOA workshop both have Jerry Holway as a lead instructor. The gear is all sponsored by Tiffen for both workshops. I'm sure they are similar experiences. I did the SOA workshop and I've doen Peter Abrahams Flyer workshop. They are both fantastic. I would recomend them to anyone looking. As for the Maine workshop I believe they are run by Paul Talyor. Again known to be a great workshop with great gear. Paul has an outstanding reputation for running a great show. As I have been to the SOA workshop and figure the Tiffen one to be pretty much the same. I would say go for one of those. Just pick the one with the cheaper flight. The Tiffen one includes housing and meals. While the SOA includes meals (which are great) and you get a discount on hotel (works out to be about the same).

David up at cramped attic www.crampedattic.com great little camos monitor with handles and sony battery plate. Good price and directors love them.

Yeah, it is minty and refreshing. Your twin also looks a lot like Jerry Hill

I own an Actioncam. I've had the Zero G since February of this year. Over all I like the rig. The machine work and craftsmanship are really good. Brian and Daryl have been good to deal with. They have been right there with the one or 2 issues that I have had. The sled is strong and its very easy to setup and balance. I like the 2" post and the rubber grips are comfy. The power/video distro built into the dovetail works. Brian does have a new "powerbox" coming out with different power/video distro options including hdsdi and video amp. Its only a 2 section post the lower post is a smaller diameter than the top. Honestly I'd rather have it be a 3 or 4 section with posts all the same diameter. The 2 section post makes it so the sled is alittle longer than a 3 or 4 section post when closed all the way. Brian also has a new monitor mount with rods that is stiff and fast. There is also a new rod system for the battery plates. The vest is comfortable and I find I can move around very well in it. I've worn a Klassen Harness and used the U2 vest a number of times. I actually like the U2 vest the best. I find it allows me the best support and maneuverability. The Klassen is stiffer than the Action products vest. Brian isn't trying to compete with Pro, Mk-v or tiffen. He's in the baer-bel, sachtler world. His arm is built solid. Easy to maintain and has flown everything I've put on it. Its no G70 or Pro arm. It takes very little effort to boom the arm where you want it (and it has quiet the boom range). But its not the sweet iso silkiness you get with the g70. Brian does not claim to have the strongest arm ever built. He does claim to have the strongest spring arm ever built. I'm sure he's comparing it to a 3a style setup. I can tell you its a pretty bullet proof setup. As far as being the first and only fully modular system. I think its really cause you can buy the base rebel unit and piece by piece build it into the zero g. Without having to discard much of anything. I know you can upgrade a MK-V and Pro pretty well also. But with Brian its different its like being able to purchase a flyer and upgrade it to an ultra2. Brian has never once made me feel like he was selling me the dream of the best rig ever made. Just a system that for my budget would allow me to fly most things out there while I'm getting started. In hind sight could I have purchased a used steadicam or pro system? yeah. I do like having all new stuff with a warranty though, something warm and fuzzy in that. Everyone is different and we all find our own path. I do know that this is just my starter rig and will upgrade to a u2 or comparable rig. Just my 2cents, barely worth a peso.

I uploaded a few quick videos on step on's and off's. I have to shoot another and when I get a chance will put them together with alittle narration. Pretty much these are my thoughts on proforming them. It is much easier to do a step on or off when stepping onto a surface around the same height as the platform. I have a short step by my backdoor I use for the video. But I believe the perfect on set item would be a half applebox or 2. You can make a line of them if you need to. When stepping onto or off a surface that is more level with the platform you don't shift your CG as much as you do stepping up or down from the platform. Having a grip there for spotting will always help. Another grip can place the apple box or boxes where they need to go on the fly. As you can see I can maintain the motion I had from the transporter into the platform. On set I would have a grip grab a handle to keep the segway from moving. The most difficult step on or off is while walking backwards in missionary onto the front of the segway. Doing a step on/off is difficult while operating. Not only do you have all the usual things going on in your head. Level, horizon, frame, etc. You also have the unknown effects the segway may produce while making such a move. Having a level surface to step onto will allow a smoother transition and will leave a larger margian for operating error. http://es.youtube.com/user/JBeattieSteadiway

I'm looking to see if anyone knows of a company the produces a short dovetail (4-6 inches) that has rod attachments at the front and the back. I want to offset it from the rods for my batteries. I'm looking to add it to the base of my sled to be used for accessoeries, weights and maybe rubber footings so it can sit on a table top like a pro 1. I've emailed baer-bel and actioncam about it. But figured if someone knew of a pre made one or someone here in the States that can do it.

Just got done with a day of work. Shooting long 100-500 yard running shots, tracking and leading. The grass was long, production told the town they liked th high grass. The ground has holes and pits and would have been extremely fatiguing and an leg ingury waiting to happen. The sun was hot and strong. I shot take after take no problem for 3 hours. If I ran it I never would have been able to get them the number of takes I did. Or at a consistant quality. The guy with the huge smile is the director. I guess he was happy. http://es.youtube.com/watch?v=TqxQLaINPWM http://es.youtube.com/watch?v=kIp87_pBBdY http://es.youtube.com/watch?v=R-F1j2Wgi6M

I just ran the cable from the aja on camera to the bottom stage worked out fine. Didn't know that they had 5-6volt units out there. I think on their websites it says it take 5-17volts. Figured it to mean it work work at any.

I'm shooting with the RED. As my rig is SD. I have to use an AJA to send the sled a picture and to transmit. I am getting ab ptap cable made so I can power odd acc's off the tops stage. Until then, I have ab taps on the base of my sled. So I can run a cable from top to bottom and power everything ok. But I also have a BFD to ab tap cable. I'm not sure of the power draw of the AJA. But I believe I should be able to pass power through my BFD to the AJA. thoughts?

Cheong, I also have the zero g. I tried looking for the email I had received from Brian months ago asking him about the gauge wire that runs up the post. I actually think I remember Brian saying it was 18gauge wire. I'll have to go back through them in the morning, when i'm fresh. I'm running 14.4volt vmounts they are 95wh. Sometimes I wish I had the 135wh for the extra weight. Next time around I'll look at the powercubes. Anyway I've had my meter on the output on the topstage and the voltage reads 16.8volts at the top of the sled and at the lemo connector an the battery plate at the base of the sled. When in 24volt mode they read over 32volts. So, on Fresh - half full batteries I really don't have a change according to the meter (its a nice meter with a fresh battery). I've asked Brian about the voltage dropoff on the power hungry cameras. He's flown them all without a problem. But has told me he would be more than happy to make a cable with a larger gauge.

Thats the same monitor we had in May. Its been said before, it looks good inside. But it is was useless outside while we were using it, not bright enough and the cover became a mirror. Personally I just got a new tiffen 7" daybright and am very happy with it. In the next 12 to 24 months we are going to see the OLED monitors hitting the market. They will make a big impact for us.

the picture looks like the monitors we had on the clippers in May at the SOA workshop. They looked good inside. But you couldn't see anything in the sun. The biggest issue I saw in the sun was the gloss finish.

Norbert. Totally jealous of your gig. would love to do at least one Olympics. Are you pulling your own focus? Do you have an AC? Or are your focal lengths such that you set it and forget it?

I don't know of anyone with one of their arms. I do know one guy in Canada who has the sled. He's had to do some tweaking to keep it all together and is using it knowing that it isn't going to for very long. There are other options out there if your looking for an arm and don't want to break the bank. I think there is a posting for a pretty nice rebuild efp arm that an op that's looking to get rid of it. Its a good deal on a proven piece of gear that techs around the worls can help maintain for you.

I don't know fo any workshops in Japan. I'd say the closest thing to you would be going to Australia. Of course you can always contact Peter Abraham I'm sure if you get the bodies for a class he'll be able to set something up there or maybe Hawaii.

Very cool stuff Mike. I really like the bike handle grips you have on the mounting plate. Smart way to save your hand and make things more comfertable. I also like the photo of you in helmet and the driver wearing none, smart.

I would not go any faster than 30mph while soft mount. No matter what. Hard mount with a safety line you can go a little faster. It is dangerous remeber production will always say "go faster, go faster''. But you really need to think about what can go wrong.

The screws used to hold the rods on are meant to carry the weight of a lens, motor, receiver. I would not put weights on them. Have a machine shop make you a plate with holes that will line up with the dovetail. Have them put the various size and thread holes in that cameras usually have on them. 1/4 3/8 As for that battery plate its a bandaid. Not really an ideal thing for your rig. I think its a $1000-$2000 jump to get another battery plate, daulbattery plate or battery plate with distro. Its on Brian's price sheet. The rebel rig's big flaw is its lack on monitor mount. Brian has 2 mounts. The new rod mount which is around $800- with 12'' aluminum rods and monitor mount for a 2'' post. Plus spacer to go on the lower smaller diameter part of the post. Then he has the older style which is a hinge type that goes on the post. Not sure of the price but i would venture to say its $200-$300. You can get the 2 section arm with the rebel rig. If you start flying heavier stuff your looking at upgrading the sled. Having to get additional springs and upgrading the vest. Defiantly look at what you would like the rig to grow into, and the costs involved. You may wind up feeling settled and then all of a sudden have to through another $5k into your rig. I have the Zerg G. I'm pretty happy with it. Even with some of its quirks. (lack of witness marks to line things up. Distro being built into dovetail and battery plates, the post of the arm). Its really well made and Brian stands behind his stuff and works as quickly as the distance allows to help out in a pinch. Its just him and Daryl, but i think they are starting to move alot more units so I hope they take on some more staff to help expedite things. As mentioned before there are some great used packages out there that will give you alot of rig for your money and last you a good amount of time without having to do much of anything. There is a clipper2 package which is a great rig and then I think I saw an EFP that was fully upgraded with the MKV package. Take a look at the classifieds.

Job, What com system and mixer are you using?

Just got an email back from the guys @ Boxx. Scott over there and I have been talking about a few things. Some of the same as Charles with intergrating an audio feed so you can communicate with the the powers that be. He has asked an interesting question. Is it better to add a walkie link instead of using the mircowave to communicate. His reasoning is that if the microwave link goes down you can still talk with intergraded walkie link. Thoughts? He's also said the system will work without any antenna attached to the transmitter. It will take away some of the range, but leaves alot of mounting options.

As for the set screw the way it works is this. The gimbal basically has a L cut in the bottom of it so when you tighten then screw down more surface area pinches around the post. You'll notice in one photo with the post flipped the gimbal only goes about halfway up the post. Thats with the arm fully boomed up. When you put weight on the arm you can sneak it up more. As for drilling a hole through the gimbal I can do that to secure a dbracket on it. Its just a matter of whether or not the dbracket will have clearance on the arm. That IIIa style jbracket looks good. I would just put an aircraft pin through it for peace of mind. My arm is rated for 76lbs. I have not flown that much yet. But I've not noticed any flexing of the sled with 50lbs. And I'm sure the arm will handle the 76lbs. And the arm won't flex its bullet proof. I like the backmounted vest Brian designed. It takes a bit at first to dial it on. Once its there its there. I've seen other users with it way bellow the hip pretty much on their butt. You can see Ramone on the behind the scenes of Good Eats like that. I'm 6'4'' and have had mine just bellow my hip. But after using the Ultra2 vest I fell in love with it and would trade my Backmounted for the new Ultra Vest or a Pro Vest in a heartbeat.

actioncam zero-g gimbal

Mike, The Steadicam mini kit would not work for the actioncam. They have different posts sizes, so the f bracket that comes with the kit would not work with the arm to offset it. As for the universal lowmode bracket, that handle grabbling style. You could use a bracket like that to flip a camera into low mode. It works at the risk of how well the plastic handle on the camera is. For video camera's your almost always better off just flipping the rig. For eng style camera bodies that you need the lense height and extra few inches lower. Brant Fagan makes what most consider to be the strongest, easy to use bracket. For film work you should be able to get the propper lowmode bracket from the camera rental house. But if your going you buy them check out Jerry Hill.

Gus, That could work. Your photo is of an old school j bracket used with efp's and IIIa's? I'm also working with Tom over at cinewidgets to see if his dbrack will work.