Nicholas Davidoff

You can use Dionic 90's BUT you're only going to get 20 to 25mins run time out of them IF they don't shut down from being over currented. Especially if you are still running the MK-V center post cable. you need to use Hytron 140-160's with less than 75 cycles on them. If you end up going one piece mode and flying the toaster then there is no way you can use dionics. Thanks Eric. So looks like Dionic HC's and/or Hytron 140/160's are the best power options. Even with my heavier gauge post cable, do you think you'll get alot more battery life by running power from the p-taps direct to the camera (bypassing the post) via an external 12 gauge dual cable? It's a very minor inconvenience. Could you then use Dionic 90's in 1 piece mode?

Thanks for the heads up Brian. I'll check in with you at Clairmont.

This confuses me, but it doesn't take much. It seems to me that if you rewire your MK-V post with a better gauge cable, you are indeed getting away from the 22AWG that you started with. My understanding is that Nick is getting a post cable from XCS which will in fact have 16AWG. He is still using the MK-V cable, that's what he rewired Eric and Iain, yes, I've been using an MK-V 22 gauge post cable which has been re-wired to carry 12 volts on two separate runs to 2 separate ports. I'm currently in the process of installing a new heavy gauge HD post cable. Also, since the subject has come up, does anybody know what gauge wire is used in MK-V's new HD V3 post cable?

Continued from a separate thread -- We will be using F23's out of Clairmont Camera. I definitely agree with you about using rental batteries versus your own. I know Dionic HC's are a great choice, but how about Dionic 90's? Also, as far as the jumper cables go, I'll be looking into those. The budget is tight and production has already laughed off the idea of using a $600/day fiber system. So looks like steadi will be either 1 piece mode with the deck or 2 piece mode with the tri-cable and a grip shadowing me with a backpack. Besides the fiber system this is what Clairmont currently has to offer. I'm prepping in a week and might have some more info then. Are there any other new solutions out there I might not be aware of?

Thank you gentlemen for all the great info. I am well aware of the wiring limitations of the MK-V. I have Pro bottom with MK-V post and topstage. My post cable has been rewired to supply a separate 12v power run to the AR port on the topstage. I've also switched the AR port to a 3 pin Lemo Aux output to reflect the Pro. So I essentially have two 3 pin Lemos feeding 12volts each off separate batts on separate cable runs. This was actually a very simple wiring job that only involved re-soldering a single lead on the bottom end of the MK-V post cable. In addition to switching out the plug on the topstage. I'm also in the process of upgrading my sled to HD with higher gauge wiring up the post and throughout the J-boxes. If any of this ever fails me on set, I have a backup external dual 12v 14 gauge power cable that runs from my AB p-taps directly to the camera. So I like to think that I've got my bases covered. We'll see... A brief update: We're now shooting on F23's out of Clairmont camera. I do have a couple of questions, but since this is a discussion about panavized run cables, I'll continue my thread at a more appropriate place, like here at Mark Karavite's great report on working with the F23 -- http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?sh...hl=f23&st=0

Thanks for all the leads guys, they were very helpful. Jack at GPI was super cool about sharing some info with me. Their HD post cable is indeed custom made by Lemo as well as their 18 pin Hybrid connectors and their HD pigtails inside the J-boxes. For very understandable reasons, GPI doesn't sell these parts separately. Even if they did, these connectors are very tricky and delicate to work with. So tricky in fact that GPI had to have Lemo do alot of the crimping and soldering for them. Greg Bubb at XCS was fantastic to talk to and extremely knowledgeable. He does offer an HD post cable which is perfect for my application. Also, Terry West, as always is one of the best for all your custom wiring needs. Depending on the sled, there will be different connectors and cabling involved. For my purposes I'm probably going with Lemo EGG.3B.812 receptacles for the J-boxes and Lemo FGG.3B.812 straight plugs for the post cable. But these are specific to my rig and my plans for cabling and power distro. Lemo has many other options available and they have a great part finder in their online catalog at Lemo.com If anybody else has any additional info I'd love to hear it. Otherwise, thanks again! ~ Nick

I know that the cable is custom made for GPI. Your best bet is to see if you can buy the parts to upgrade from PRO, although I doubt that they will sell them individually. I'm upgrading a Pro 2 with MK-V 2" post and my lower j-box is custom built. This is why I can't do the upgrade through GPI. I currently have the Pro stock 8 pin Lemo connectors all around. It's a pretty simple upgrade as long as I can get my hands on the parts. I'm 99.9% certain that all the connectors come from Lemo, so all I need are the part numbers. As for the cable itself, that seems to be a tough find. Maybe GPI can hook me up. I guess Hugo Langer was making some for a while, but seems like the gauge might not be ideal. Betz is offering a custom upgrade but you have to ship your sled to Germany. I was hoping to find this cable somewhere in America. Anybody have any leads?

I searched the forum and couldn't find this. Regarding an HD upgrade for a pro sled, I have some custom work I'd like to do. Does anybody have the exact part numbers for the following: 1) Lemo panel mount connectors for upper and lower J-box to run HD. I believe these are 10 or 11 pin? 2) Lemo connectors for both ends of the HD post cable. 3) The HD coiled post cable itself. Is there a place you can order a single unit? Preferably in the U.S? Something with 14AWG cable for the voltage runs. Any help is appreciated. ~ Nick

I had a funny incident on set the other day and remembered this thread, so I had to toss this in. I was doing a job with a young director who had trouble expressing the composition he wanted. As he instinctively grabbed my post to show me his frame, he asked, "Is it cool if I do this?" I had no problem with it and I politely responded, "Be my guest... I actually like it when you hold the rig. It brings us closer together"....... He never touched the rig again.

Thanks Doc, very helpful. Definitely makes sense to have a Y cable to carry more current up the post. Even if you decide to use a single 12v port, you still have both options. I have a modified GPI/MK-V hybrid and I do have an extra 12volt AUX port. I just realized this is a thread about a panavized F35 cable, whereas the F35 I'm using will be Sony stock. Nevertheless, the same answer applies. So basically, you can use the same cable to power a panavized F35 and Genesis. But obviously you can't use the same cable for a Genesis and a stock F35. Thanks

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I need a bit of clarification regarding an F35 power cable for Pro Sled. The F35 in question is coming from Camera House, NOT PV modified. Since F35 is a 12v camera, why would you require a "Y" cable for a Pro sled? Is this because it's such a power hog like the Genesis, you get more amps out of 2 separate lines? What if you run power from a single 12v port with 2 batteries in parallel? Voltage loss? I have an F35 job coming up and would like to figure the best power cable solution. Something else I just thought of. Since Genesis and F35/F23 are the same connector. Can you make a "Y" cable that will be universal for all 3? 12v and 24v??? Thanks for your help, ~ Nick

Andy has a very interesting rig. I've heard lots of stories about his equipment. Can anybody explain the functionality behind this design?

Dear Baz, Your question pops up about once a month on this forum. This question has been asked and answered dozens of times over. All of your answers are already in the archives, they simply require some searching and reading on your part. Research the entire newbies section, you will find all your answers. Good luck

Good reading here - http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?sh...l=nick+davidoff

Thanks for another great article Charles. In regards to the play between the gold mount and v mount adapter, here's a remarkably simple solution. A couple tabs of soft side velcro on the gold mount provides a cushion between the two plates. It pretty much eliminates the play and rattle. Equally effective if there's a bit of play in your AB battery. Works for me, hope it works for you.

Guys, I would STRONGLY recommend against using any cell inside of a battery, other than what is originally put in by the manufacturer. This goes for any type of battery, not just Anton/Bauer batteries. Recelling a Trimpac 14 with a higher capacity NiCad cell might be OK. But, putting a different chemistry cell inside of a battery that it is not designed for is NOT SAFE. All Anton/Bauer batteries have "nameplates" on them (microprocessor) which identify them to the charger. And, as you know, each chemistry of battery needs to be charged in a specific way. So, if you try and charge a lithium ion battery like a NiCad, you are asking for trouble........most likely in the means of a fire. This is not something that should even be experimented with. Even if you replace the cells, the electronics package will still think it is the original cell chemistry and charge it as such. You can over-charge a NiCad or NiMH cell, but if you go over 16.8v on a lithium ion, you can have a fire...... I can guarantee that any manufacturer will tell you the same. Paul Thanks Paul. Good to know.

If these were soon available in a "C" sized cell (which they likely will be), could you theoretically re-cell your Anton Bauer Hytron's or Trimpacs using these cells? Would you be able to charge them on your AB charger? I've re-celled my Trimpacs with new Ni-cad cells and they've been working great on an AB charger for over a year.

SOLD

For Sale: Lithium Ion battery pack for Archos 604. Brand new in unopened plastic case. $20 + shipping Or local pickup in Los Angeles ~ Nick Davidoff (310) 567-9668 NicholasDavidoff@hotmail.com

Just curious how some fellow steadicam operators like to set up their rigs in regards to inertia. More specifically, the distribution of weight at the bottom of the sled. As most of us know the distance between the monitor and rear battery module dictates how much inertia feedback you receive from the rig. The monitor further forward and the batteries further back creates a greater distance between the two and thus more inertia and stability. The monitor and batteries tighter to the sled creates less inertia and thus a more maneuverable rig with a smaller footprint. Personally I've found I prefer a tighter setup to create a more agile rig which must be handled with a lighter touch. When I spread the bottom weights too far apart I find I have to muscle the rig that much for control, especially through tricky moves. However, if I'm flying a very long camera, like an F900 with zoom lens and rear mounted battery, I spread my monitor and batteries further apart to better match the greater camera inertia I have on the top stage. I had a conversation once with a veteran operator who told me "I'll take as much inertia as I can get", and this got me thinking. I know that not all rigs have this kind of adjustability, but for the ones that do, I'd love to hear some thoughts on this subject. Do you prefer more or less inertia? Do you adjust it per camera or style of shooting or do you leave it fixed at all times? How much inertia is too much? Thanks for your input, ~ Nick

David Hable at "Cramped Attic". He's been repairing and modifying Modulus' for years. He's in Canada, so there will be some shipping involved. But his work is top notch with very quick turnaround (from my experience). All info is on his website - http://www.crampedattic.com/ Good luck Rick!

Look at it this way Kenton (and all you other freebie-seekers) I'll be happy to help you out and come work on your project for free to support your cause. I'm a charitable guy and I'm a pretty good operator so I'll do a decent job for you. Naturally, you'll have to supply me with a steadicam equipment rental package to use on your shoot. Dolly grips don't show up with their own dollies, nor do electricians bring their own 12 K's, nor are set dressers expected to provide furniture. I can suggest a few businesses that rent steadicam systems, or I can give you a pretty good deal on one. It's your call. But I'm sorry to say, I don't know of any businesses that rent free steadicams (I wish there were, I could've saved alot of money). It makes sense though. I can't imagine these businesses would be around very long or would turn some sort of a profit. That's the way the cookie crumbles. Good luck with your movie! P.S. - And shooting with natural lights is always a smart move. You save so much time and money and the film still looks great. All these big movies using all these big lights. It's just a massive conspiracy by the grip and lighting industry. Nor do you need a good D.P. Any kid out of film school can do it no problem. The Red pretty much does it all for you.

I want a Ferrari F-430. It has always been my dream. I can't afford one right now due to the economic crisis and all. So I was hoping the good people of this forum could help me out. Perhaps if each of you could send me a check for $1000 I could have my dream car. Of course I will provide you with a thank you note and photos of myself in my new Ferrari. The Ferrari will be very well taken care of and will be a lot of fun to drive. Thanks to all for your help.

SOLD

F.Y.I - New Hill vehicle mount with NO socket block goes for $600 New socket block is an additional few hundred $.