Ken Nguyen

You will never be disappointed with XCS sled (period). For CineTape display, I mount it in the center top of camera using a mini ball head (as close as I can on top of camera CG). Just need to turn the display 180 degree to the other side when asked. Most of the time, no rebalance is needed. If I have to rebalance, it just be a very little turn. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Just like you, during the first few months of doing handheld work, I looked for all kind of shoulder pads on the market. Made a lot of pads using all kind of foams as well. I found out that nothing is better than than standard shoulder pad that comes with the camera and my own shoulder. Doing it regularly for a while, you will see that. Your shoulder will adjust to it. No extra pad is needed. Extra pad might do you more harm than good. Just likes steadicam operating; remember those first few months; standing in front of the mirror looking at you shirtless body after a hard working day; the vest was clearly printed on your skin. Now, you don't see it anymore. Cheers, Ken Nguyen

In the professional world, for sure the size of the camera will be about the size of Alexa. In the consumer world, the phone is getting wider and wider, because of the size of human fingers. Bigger screen size also is easy to view and displays more info. Back to the camera size/weight point of view, most of those who uses smaller camera (DSLR) realizes that adding more weight and accessory will help controlling the camera better.

Done this a dozen of times. Wireless tally and/or wireless program monitor. Pulling my own iris. Camera is painted and set up using CCU by video engineer before the shoot. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

My Camwave does it too... Ummmmm. The bolt does that Try this one: http://www.intelix.com/intlx_prod_details.php?pitem=SKYPLAY-HD-S one transmitter to 20 receivers!

Using 18mm and 24mm lenses, most of those demo shots can be done using a Fig Rig. Only one operator is needed.

Ok, let's talk about it. Every single day. Working in scripted (HD) television these days, it is not uncommon to shoot multiple takes back to back "keep rolling, reset, action!". There is often no time to walk back to your docking station, that's why the 5/32 key lives in my PRO vest. And yes the PRO arm adjust perfectly fine under load, I 2nd Erwin.... Why do you need to re-adjust your arm? Lens change? You let the AC changes lens while holding the rig? or dock your rig on the table? How far is docking station from the set? Where is your assistant? You don't have a portable docking stand? And, yes, I do adjust PRO arm when it is under load. But, not away from the dock. Once, it is adjusted. It's good to go w/o the need of re-adjust unless there is a big change in the set up (wide to heavy long lens).

Step back on your left leg, put the sled on your shoulder (resting position), the weight is on your left leg, using the battery hanger as a shield and as a weapon. This is like the undercut hit. Then, step your right leg up in a pivoting movement, the arm elbow will be your weapon to attack to the chest of the opponent. I say, stay and use your rig as a shield and a weapon. Your best chance to survive. If you run, you sustain heavy loss. If the guy is a celebrity, take one hit from him first, then retaliate. After that, collect the compensation for your wound. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Eric, Let's talk about PRO arm. How many time do you need to adjust your arm while you are away from the dock and the arm is under load? Ken Nguyen.

How do you figure? it's VERY practical Eric, sorry if I'm wrong. Can you show me how practical it is? Better yet you tell me how it's not practical Eric, Ha ha ha! You are quite funny! You stood up against my statement. That meant you are very sure what you are saying is right. So, prove it. Prove that I'm wrong by reason please. Ken Nguyen.

How do you figure? it's VERY practical Eric, sorry if I'm wrong. Can you show me how practical it is? Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

I do Alfeo's and Eric's techniques! Beware of over exercise (lifting weight, hard core....) unless you've been doing it for years. You need your muscle strength and energy for the job. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Alfeo is right. There is only one way to step on your segway is from the front, which is also blocked by the rig. You have to swing your sled over to step on the segway; not practical! Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Best is leaving it on the dock. You need to dock your sled to adjust your arm anyway, why bother to carry it with you! For some, keeping the T-bar allen on the chest spar is a fashion. It's not very practical. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

There are steps one should know: 1. Take driving school first to get your driver license. 2. Go to the dealer to look for your dream car based on your budget. 3. Once you have a car (whatever it is), practice and make money out of it. 4. Save money for your Rolls-Royce or your dream house. 5. Once your skill is top-notch, equipment will be less important. Do one thing at the time guy. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Lukas, What if your batteries won't hold the same charge dues to age and cycle of use? What if one of the battery is not fully charge? Better have the diode installed for peace of mind and extra protection. You can mix different charge and capacity battery without frying the circuit and damaging the battery. The 0.7v drop is not a big deal. I used Dual Schottky Diode 80A/45V. It can handle all kind of power or current hungry equipment. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Steven French, Australian, cameraman/Steadicam operator based in Dubai. One of the best on my list. Contact: Email: camerasteve@gmail.com Web: www.camerasteve.com Phone: Dubai: +9715-0293-7726 Australia: +61-402-052-339

I'm sorry to everyone. I didn't want to go back to this topic anymore. But, you know "the flag wants to stop waiving, but the wind won't stop" Matteo, I don't need to own one so I can talk about it. I'm here, living and working just about 30min drive from Hollywood. I can get my hand on any of the arm being sold in the market. I can borrow from friends (yes, a lot of friends), rent it, or try it at the manufacturers or dealers. I did plan to sell my Master and 3A arms to buy..., but I changed my mind. Hope this is clear enough for you to understand why I don't own one. And, yes, I'm not replying anymore to this post. I'm out. I threw the towel on the floor. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Just a bit off topic. In the mid 80's, the army started its own video-instructional program. So they bought almost everything related to video shooting. They got budget! Friends called me from everywhere saying: "Hey, we got a Steadicam, Jimmy Jib, dolly, ..." But, they didn't have enough training or time to train. Also, instructional video at that time didn't employ much moving shot. So, those stuffs were ending up collecting dust in the storage room. Lucky for those who won the auction. Ken Nguyen.

Wow! Look how the topic is evolving! About 60% of my gigs, I've been asked to do at least one 360 shot. Something likes, coming in from a distance with a wide, then circle(s), then out to a wide to the other side... A perfect circling shot is a shot where the subject is at the center of the constant-radius circling camera. Based on what I learned from my mentor, and what I've done, a perfect circling shot does not require gimbal pan nor body pan. Once, you head room is trimmed, and your framing is set, just walk or run around the subject while keeping the same radius distance. But, a perfect circling shot is boring! I try to vary it a lot by not placing the subject at the center of the circle. Or I do an ellipse instead. In these above cases, body pan and gimbal pan come to play to keep better frame the subject. It's new year guys! Please have a new and better resolution. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Based on the color of the vest and the "SK2" in the model number, I'm pretty sure that it is a Steadicam SK2. Value: $2500 to $5000 depends on condition and included accessories. It is not an air-to-air equipment. Cheers,

Jens, There is nothing wrong of hosing down the arm with tap water. Is there a warranty which mentions this? I doubted. Of course, after hosing out all the sand, or mud, or sea-water, you need to dry it out (I use air gun). Next is lubricating, and greasing (if needed). If this is a bad idea, then all of my arms already went bad, because of my on-going abusing method in the last 10+ years. Only one time I had my arm serviced by Luna. It was when my 3A cables were snapped. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Eric, ".... to the higher end" This is your own statement. I don't think PRO (is the one we are talking about in this thread) issues this statement. Remember the grey canister is specially designed for the Atlas. The Atlas arm is targeting on wider demographic users (newbie and pro as well) I don't think that you never check at the window during your first few months of using the PRO arm. I can only believe you, if you swear to God and to yourself that you've never looked at it. Cheers, Ken Nguyen.

Here is mine. I was on a crane for a crane-step-down shot. As the crane booming down, 5.6 earthquake hit. The crane swing left and right then left then right. I was real scary. I was lucky. no one was panic. The crane operator bravely braced the crane for the period of a year. No it was only about 2min! Fly safe! Ken Nguyen.

You are right Eric. But, you missed my point here. Manufacturer need to listen to pro, yes. But, it has to act like a beginner to design its product for a wider range of end user. Try to remember back then, at the first time you got your hands on the PRO arm. Did you look at the window to adjust your arm? Did you have to look at the window to be sure what the tension of the arm was at? Cheers, Ken Nguyen.