Mikko Wilson

...interesting numbers Chris, sound really familer... I'll be happy to confirm those figures, having flown with virtually exactly the same specks.. (I had PAG batteries, not IDX). My logest shoot with the Flyer (with a slgihtly lighter HDV setup) was a 19hr day - with 1hr for lunch, but in flight most of the rest of the time. - Mikko Chris, what's your Flyer's S/N? I'm curious how close ours are... ;-)

Simon: The system specs are for the maximum normal operating situation - and yeah, that's when the arm maxes out and can no longer hold the rig up level. However operating at these settings will have no negative effect on the rig in the long run - In fact the springs in an Iso-Elastic arm are always stretched the same amount, regardless of their weight setting! (The adjustment doesn't effect spring tension, but rather the lifting efficiency of the spring due to it's lift angle) If you need to bring the cam weight even lower, then pull off that sun shade, and anything else you can. - battery mount, shoulder pad have all come off our cam when necesary. That beeing said, I mostly shoot with slightly smaller cams on our flyer. And you really do want to leave a little more room for accesories like the focus kit, transmitter, tally kit if you run multicamera, matte boxes, etc.. So sounds like the Pro-Vid2 may be a better option for you. - Call Frank at Steadicam and tell him what you have, he'll be happy to help you choose the right rig :-) - Mikko.

I don't know about the Magiqcam havign never flown one.. but it is an imitation rig and I get the impression it's (just) ok, but nothing special. The Flyer is a fantastic light rig. - the arm rivals the Master/Ultra arm in performance, beats the SK arm hands down. - Also the Flyer has the Vest-Arm adjustment on it which is very important for proper operating. So yeah if you have the funds, i'd definatly sugest the flyer. About weight: First off, take the battery off your camera. - The camera is powered by the battery on the steadicam, it wont' need it's own. (don't forget to get a flyer with teh correct mounts for the batteries you allready have :) ) This will knock a couple of pounds of the cam. - also if you are havign wight probs, you can strip stuff off the camera. - Viewfinder generally goes first, followed by the mic & it's mount. if you are still too heavy then can also pull other bits off like the sun shade from the lense, and maybe the handle etc... However, dont' forget to add stuff like follow focus, x-mitter, etc.. depending on what accessories you plan to use. I fly a Hitachi V-21W with DSR-1 Back and canon 12x ENG Glass; on our Flyer, fully stripped without trouble. Yes the Flyer will handle any camera 4-15Lbs. (that's wight on the stage... cam + accesories, but NOT including Batts) SO if yoru camera is 12Lbs with the battery, then it should fly very nicly on the Flyer.

At the SOA workshop they taught us to first adjust the fore arm (gimble end of arm) so that it's horizontal, then set the upper arm to follow the fore arm so they move together. - Mikko.

David, This has allredy been discussed in a mirror topic in the general discussion forum. But thanks for mentioning it here too. -Mikko

Meg. Just my 2 cents form a college student who has only been dooing Steadicam for a few monthes. I'v been operating camera for about 7 years now. I'd beeing thinking of steadi for a a while, and I managed to save and beg (grandparents are generally supportive of educational andeavours) anough money together for a workshop. And for ?3000 and I signed up. It was cancelled soon after. So in september I found and signed up for the Optex workshop in the UK for considerably less. - after all, it is a shorter workshop. I spent ?400 on going down to IBC in amsterdam for 3 days where I actully put on a rig for the first time, infact i tried all the rigs there. I also met Garrett and Co. While ther I cancelled my place at the Optex workshop and signed up for the SOA workshop in PA in Oct. and it was WELL worth it! I'd do it again if I could afford it. So there's my (still short) story for now. And I'll just echo the advice again: While you are saving for a workshop; Learn camera first. Once you can use the thing well on sticks, in your hand, on a pedestal, etc.. Then take a workshop. Then you will have allready know what is next. "Practice Practice Stand-up-straight! Practice" Good luck! - Mikko

Yeah.. really easy. After all, we all have our favorites, and most likly can't be conviced otherwise. And it's up to each and every person to make up their own mind. Good luck on that choice Matt. Don't diss production too much... they have all the money (note: I didn't say that you arn't right :rolleyes: ) Glad we got this cleared up, thanks. :-) - Mikko

...One could always paint scratches onto your rig... :P

Ok, lets see if I can respond without causing too many fireworks... I will agree with you that the Flyer has less inertia - this is simple physics. The fact that the V20 is built heavier will make it steadier due to the law of mass tonnage. But as far as build quility goes, I'd never even compare a Glidecam to a Steadicam. If you are having touble getting a steady shot out of a Sony HDV, especially with extra wieght, then you might want to queation how well the V20 has actually taught you to operate. - If your gimble is sticky, you might want to look into a service for it. What did you use to bring this (far too light on the Flyer) camera setup up to weight on the V20? Anyway, this is the wrong topic, and I don't paticularly want to get caught up in a big argument about which rig is better. I belive Matt was just asking if anyone had anything decent for sale Used, before he went out and got the best rig he chould afford New. - Mikko P.S. Anyone interested in some footage shot with the Sony FX1 on the Flyer, check out this short I shot a few monthes back: http://mikko.n3.net/files/Omenatiikeri_V08_400K_pub.wmv ...It isn't a masterpeice of film history, but I'm proud of it.

V20 beats Flyer for "build quality"? *cough* right... Don't know about the DSR 570, but for those lighter cams (which the majority of your work appears to be) XLs, PD's DVX.. HDVs.. then the Flyer is the best rig for the job. And i have flown DVCAM on a Hitachi V21-W with Sony DSR-1 back (real camera) just fine on the Flyer - just be sure to strip off all the extra parts (viewfinder, etc..) and put a nice light glass on the front! - Mikko

..Do I detect another reason to hold our breath 'till NAB? - Mikko

A "HD" rig has a monitor that can accept a HD signal (component - generally 720p or 1080i). The standard flyer is NOT HD. - the monitor just accepts regular composite (SD) video. I was asking if there was a version of the flyer with a HD monitor It is possible to connect a HD camera to a SD monitor, but you need a down-converter to make the HD output from most HD cameras SD for the monitor. However the HDV cameras (JVC HDVsomething, and the sony FX1 and Z1) - which some argue arn't really HD cameras because they compress and record to MiniDV - have built in downconverters. These cameras do have a HD Component output. But they can also output regular SD (as component, s-video, or composite) which works just fine with the regular Flyer (and any other SD monitor). - Mikko

TC to still camera's? umm... - I guess you could have an extra still camera that took a picture of a TC display form the motion camera.. :-) - Mikko.

A while back there was a thread if there were any inovators left in the steadicam biz.. well here's one fine fine example. Imagination is the limit. .. now how about having all those camera's be motion cameras. - oh yeah, and paired to do it in 3D? :rolleyes: ..Something new for NFL to think about! P.S. I wonder if that thing is in D.Bal? :o - Mikko

Hot damn! Handheld bullet time! ..Obviously *someone* has.. who is that in the picture?!?! Is that a steadicam type rig? - I dont' seen an arm or gimble (i don't think...), Or is it just a harness thing (like polecam)? That thing looks just WiLd! :blink: - Mikko

Thanks Rob, needed that :huh: - Mikko

Filmania: I do belive that the critisisim expressed here is at the rig, and how it is marketed. In the video and pics it is set up wrong, and beeing operated by someone who looks like they've bearly ever even looked at a picture of another operator (just the adds on this forum, they show the correct set up) And the marketing style is preaty slimy. Which understandblay a lot of people arn't happy about here in the world of prosessionals. Not sure you want to assosciate yourself too heavily with these guys too publicly as they seem to have rather a bad name. - Mikko.

Yeha, very true about the possibility of the removing of the handle.. - The camera i fly is a seperate head (Hitachi V21-W) and recorder (Sony DSR-1) so that handle is designed to be removable to changing camera backs.. And by all means i am not sure about that flipping DVCPRO thing.. just a rumor i heard. - the regular pre-shoot testing should check this either way ;) - Mikko

Just a note on Alec's trick fo flipping the camera and the flipping the image in post. - I've heard that you can't flip DVCPRO in post for some reason.. so you might want to test this before you shoot. B) - Mikko

Matt: about that 'lean', just ot elaborate and ilustrate Imran's solution... The one thing that neither the Steadicam Mini Manual or the SK-2 Video (which are the supplied documentation for the Flyer (at least that's what I got) mention is the "Threads" - Which niether of those rigs have. The threads are the 2nd most imporatant adjustment of a rig after the sled balance adjustments on the stage and the gimble position. The picture linked below shows a close up of the socket block on the Ultra. The 2 screws on the front are the "forward-backward" adjustment.. these effect weather the rig tends to drift towards or away from you. Stand up straight and the rig should float in place.. if it falls away from you, then you will need ot losen the bottom and tighten the top one to correct it. etc. - one of these screws must of course be opened to take the arm off - Note, you onlny need ot loosen one screw. just leave the other one so that next time you put the arm in it is allready set correctly. The other adjustment is the "side to side" agjustment. it's a little different on teh flyer but works the same way. In the picture you can see a little peice of pink tape (with some rather famous initials on it) - just to the left of that is where one of the 2 "rod ends" comes out, the other one is just below it. On the flyer there is a pair of adjustment knobs right here - Turning these nobs will either extend or shorten the bolts - and therfor adjust the angle of the whole arm - and again which way it tends to lean. Note: you will most likly need ot take the arm off - at least undock the sled - before adusting these ones. SO using these trim controls you can adjust the rig to fly where you want it, when you are Standing up straight - as you shoudl always be when flying. one other thign that jsut came to mind to solve your problem with a swaygin rig is: be sure to check your drop time. the gimble shoudl be *just* (about 1/4inch or so) aove the center of gravity, no more. - Test this with a drop test. (when flying, turn the sled on it's side, then let go and see how long it takes to swing through verticle - it shoudl be about 3 secs - the video and manual cover this part well. - Mikko

Sean: I'v flown a Hitachi V21-W with a DSR-1 back .. which stripped down to minimum weight (took off the handle and shoulder pad.. it was close..) and the flyer flew it just fine with the arm tension maxed out. - and with 2 small PAG bricks on the sled the gimble was just low enough that i could fit it onto the dock. - so about it's limit there. With the flyer in low mode (and an average length operator) the rig get's relativly low but no garunties that you can get the camera to the deck. - The gimble ends up at just abouve my knee. So with a big camera you are talking about a lense height of about your upper shin at lowest. So not too shabby. With a PD150 (which I also shoot on alot with the Flyer) I normal fly on only one battery (again, small PAG brick) and that is gimble mid shaft, so it should reach almost as low as you'd want. - I'm sure with 2 batts you could bury the camera. Oh yeah.. if you are stripping down you cmaera to fly it like I did (I took off: viewfinder and mic of course, also mic mount, lense sun shade, carrying handle, battery mount, and shoulder pad) you might have trouble finding somewhere to get your low mode clamp onto if you have no handle on the camera! <_< Good luck! - Mikko

*quiet whistper* ... "Workshop" ...no, but really. That walking back and forth thing is the best practice you can do. Rob is absoloutly correct. If you can nail the Line excersize perfect, then your operating will be very good. (that's supposed to tell you that the lines dance not only is simple, but the hardest part to get right!) :rolleyes: Watch the video that came with the flyer. (Still the SK-2 video? ..that's what I got) and search aroudn the forum and you will find lots of usefull hints. Also read the Ultra manual (on the steadicam website) - sure it's not hte same rig, but all the same ideas and teachiniques apply - especially to balanceing. Also read the Dynamic Balance Primer which exaplins all you beed ot knwo about D.Bal.. As for the best place for a level. Somewhere where you can see it - So somewhere aroudn the monitor. I have put some velcro across the top of my monitor and use it to attach a level (among other things) - that way I can trim the level. Gyro's don't effect ballance only Inertness. - Imagine you are holding a spinning bicyle wheel (basically a gyro) by the bolts in the middle. It will be very hard to move the wheel (that's a gyro's job) but it won't in any way make the wheel spin at any paticular angle. ...And if you only take one peice of my advice: If you can afford it, find a workshop and take it. They are well worth it. Good luck! - Mikko

For all of you looking for a really cheap laugh after a hard day of flying. Rather a funny typo I spotted on this site: http://www.eurotek.ie/products/Accesspage.htm The Flyer, the Vector, and the what? ok.. so not really *that* funny, but oh well... - Mikko

Jay, Sounds like you have your prioreties in the right place :-) I agee it is a lot of money. My advice is definaly on an "If you can afford it" basis.. I feel your lack of money.. I have taken a workshop but have no rig of my own.. :( Yeah I promo the Flyer, not really to speak bad of any rig, but just as positive feedback from using the one at my school very regularly... Job, No hard feelings about the other guys, I'm just giving my oppinion of the best I've tried. And yeah I have flown other rigs too. ..Every rig on the floor of IBC last year infact. With multiple flies of all the Glidecams, as well as ABC, PRO, Sachtler and a couple more that i don't rember the names of... And i do say that Glidey did a decent job too (as most of them did) Flyer is just my personal fave in the Light Rigs category that's all. Heh, and I don't count my own build as anything worth even mentioning as a rig... ;) - Mikko

:lol: *applause*