Frederic Chamberland
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Posts posted by Frederic Chamberland
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Hi Brian,
I know this topic has been covered somewhere here but can't find it right now...
The Bartech is the next step as you mention.
My list would go like this, and not necessarily to do student films or music video, I think the Bartech itself would be enough to step into student films with your rig but you will need more as soon as you will aim for "paid" operating jobs:
-A video sender
-A hard mount
-Another channel for IRIS pulling (another Bartech) (this option is becoming more and more popular in HD shooting when the DP sits behind is monitor (when you are cabled) and pull is own iris, they love it when I give them their "power knob")
-Rain covers for all gear
Then my list would continue with those non-essential but so helpful and when you start using them, you can't go back...
-Digital level.
-on-board video recorder
Other operators will chime in with different accessories and I think every list will change depending on the operator and jobs aimed at. Good luck and fly safe.
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Tested....
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Follow up on Big dog's golf carts, here we managed to get up to 32 miles/hour...I'm still smiling, we have not tried it yet...
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Hi Mark,
The only camera you could fly with an on board battery that runs 24 volts is the 235. every other camera will have to be powered by a block battery or a belt (that means a cable to the camera). You can probably fly with a belt battery on your shoulder cabled to the camera, but it is a hassle to fly with a cable, and the power cable is always thick and heavy, two things you don't wan't messing around the sled.
There is no magic solution:
-Rent a 24 v capable sled
-Try to make the most out of it with a freaking cable and a belt battery
-Get another sled if you see a future in flying these 24v cameras.
-Get a converter (12-24 volts) from a reliable source and the good cables to power your camera . Marell has one : Marell converter
The converter should do the trick but it drains your batteries so fast you need a lot.
The only thing you don't want is stepping on set and say "i can't do it because it is a 24v camera" to the crew.
Fly safe at any voltage required
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Thanks Erwin, Alec and Brad for your feedback. It seems to be the way to go.
And with times like these (robbery) I have received about 180 genuine emails of encouragements and one of those was from a Montreal AC giving me the opportunity to "cut the line" for the list at Preston, he will give me his spot (he has been on the waiting list for a while) . In return, I will have him take the remote when I am not using it until he gets another.
Now the only thing keeping me from sending a deposit to Preston is the insurance response towards the change of supplier. Let's keep fingers crossed.
When my experience with the insurance will be resolved, I will post the full story and how I dealt with everyone involved in this situation.
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Just wondering if the owners of this new toy are happy with it. I read about the software updates and all, but I am wondering about simple things like reliability and hardware behavior. Is it still a workhorse like it's predecessor? I'm asking because I am looking at my options right now. My gear was stolen last week and I am just waiting for the insurance company to resolve my case so I can send checks to my suppliers.
I am considering the Preston since my canadian looney is almost at par with the american dollar right now. I had a Scorpio until the robbery and I was very happy with it. I got quotes from Service Vision and compared them to the Preston price list and I can get the same setup for less money on the Preston side. And of course, Service Vision has yet to unveil a new generation of remotes.
Thanks to guys like Erwin who shares every bit of info with us, I will continue reading this thread until my case is resolved with the insurance.
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Hi all,
Stolen last night (07/17/07) my complete package:
Sacthler Sled Cine HD #G0265201001
Scorpio Remote : #DCF287
Walter Klassen Vest: #126
Lots of aks:
Sony tuner, FFV recorder, LOTS of cables...brackets, chargers, Dewalt minimonitor director's tv, rain gear.
Everything was stolen but the arm...in my truck in my locked garage. If anyone gets a phone call, please let me know.
thanks.
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Hi Peter,
Go to this grip web site from Montreal:
Under Pictures, look for "La rage de l'ange" with operator Francois Daignault, look also for the ski-doo rig of The Secret with Daniel Sauvé (I think I recognise his sled). And also a couple of videos under "300" as they shot on the blue screen the warriors on horses...
The owner of Big Dog Gripping is Bertrand Dupuis, one of Montreal's best key grip with his own truck (one of the last few to be independant here in Montreal)
He also modified his electric golf carts (he has 2) with so many features (like a "turbo" button...0 to 27 mph in 3 seconds), adjustable air shocks on the fly, spike wheels for ice... He means business, the rear bumper sticker reads "MY OTHER RIDE IS YOUR MOM" .
No kidding , I wish I had a picture of that bumper.
Nice guy, nice toys that always work.
Hope this helps a bit.
Fly with a turbo button.
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And when Canadians like me are raised with both systems (metric and imperial) I can assure you those were probably pounds because 55kg would make around 120lbs... (1kg=2.2lbs)
Fly light.
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100% video top is an Arri part made specifically for steadicam. You take the whole viewfinder part off and replace it with a small , compact , optical block with video assist integrated. This 100% video top is an option, (you could mount the camera with viewfinder on, there is still a video assist on the camera) but this is the kind of "essential" option if you want to help yourself. I've attached a picture of the camera with the 100% video top. As you can see, there is no viewfinder anymore, there is also a bracket built in to put some rods for the motors above the lens, very useful, and the top is flat with holes to screw your dovetail plate directly on top of it to go low-mode rapidly. The picture shows (from top of camera) my video sender( canatrans) velcroed to my 2nd dovetail plate that is already screwed in the video top . This allows me to switch to low-mode very rapidly.
Also good to know, the low mode bracket is then not required since you screw your plate directly into the video top but some operators will prefer to use their own brackets that attaches to the side or underneath. And last but not least, GO TO THE RENTAL HOUSE and try your setup. You have the perfect recipe for disaster (no experience with this camera, first time on your rig...) and you don't want to look like a fool in the first half hour of your gig and see the dolly come out of the grip truck... The rental house visit is mandatory.
Fly safe.
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Hi Wei,
Depending on the swing/tilt package you have , you might need some rods to hold the lens so think about the bridge plate that add weight. If the lenses don't need the support, putting a motor on the iris should be fine but a lot of complications for focus. First problem is the lens will probably be "crooked" and I have not seen a "dutch" motor bracket yet, then if you can actually put a motor on, the references are different with every move you make on the lens, so calibrating will result in a very painfull experience and time consumming. The 2 times I have used Swing/tilt lenses were on music videos and we all agreed not to try to pull focus and live with the "artsy" results.
There is one picture of me with the ARRI swing/tilt lenses on a 435. You can see I had to link the camera to the sled by using the "studio mode " accessories like the sliding plate, bridge plate and 15mm rods to use the lenses. And no motor on. Sorry if the picture is not very relevant.
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Hi Matt,
One thing I would do for sure is to check with compatibility with your local video rental houses. I would recommend going with the most popular brand around you.
All the companies you are referring to have exceptional products and will deliver to the highest standards but to be able to get a spare charger or battery when one fails fast enough your job still remains on track is a plus. I'm from Canada and all the rental houses have Anton Bauer so I chose this system and don't regret it. These companies are big enough to always offer some innovative products and tend to offer products that will grow with your needs.
Of course , you can also check with cheaper products that are "compatible" with these names and offer what seems to be similar products but you have to be ready to be "alone": let's pretend I buy a "SWIFT" battery from china that is compatible with Anton Bauer mount. I will have to buy also the SWIFT charger since these batteries won't charge on the genuine Anton Bauer charger. The big companies make great effort to make sure only their products can be charged on their chargers...
I would also spend some time in the "Battery/Power" thread to see more clearly. LOTS of info on each system and people /reps to call in your area to get some more info.
Fly safe
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Hi Patrick,
Try to get a hold of Francois Perrier , Francois's web site. We shot "Maurice Richard" feature film about the hockey legend and Francois did some amazing stuff on skates with the 235... I would have not done it but Fancois did and it was impressive. great framing , on skates!!!!
Cheers.
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sold. thank you everyone for the interest.
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Hi all,
For sale a superb cable designed for Archos series 400 recorder. It is 18" long from plug to plug.
One end is LEMO FGG.0B 5 pin (REC OUT on PRO sled)
Other end is Archos Series 400 Plug.
There is a downconverter from 12v to 4.5 volt to power Archos.
The cable sends power, video in and out.
For 110$US, I will send it Expresspost to Canada or USA.
thanks.
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Hi all,
I have just received a nice little recorder for my sled. The NDT-200 from Fast forward video in California.
All specs are on their web site FFV so please check them out to understand my review.
First off, the unit looks well built and sturdy, no cheap plastic parts here. More like ABS casing and cash register buttons. The unit looks rugged and that's a big plus.
629 grams/ 1.6 lbs with the hard drive in. And there is no battery inside, it can only be powered by an external source. That's a bit heavy but if it performs as flawlessly as my old Sony GVD200, I'll be happy.
External power : 7 to 40 volts dc ... no more downconverters or just scared of blowing it with too much power. It takes it all.
Simple RCA in and outs for video. No fuss here. As you can see, it has a lot of features of the Sony recorders. They actually built this unit to replace the sony in the fields.
There is also a "ipod" control wheel to scroll in the menus ... Simple and efficient , very "ipod" style so it takes a minute to find all the options. This "ipod" wheel I want to try in the canadian cold weather to see how it performs. My real IPOD still works in minus degrees conditions but the screen freezes... I want to see this screen in the cold also. Not to mention you theoricaly don't need to go thru the menus to record and playback what you just recorded : The hard buttons will do that but if you want to see a previous clip...that's another story.
Also , different playback speeds are a must... You will be able to see the exact playback speed, not a "twice as fast " playback only or a "very slow motion" option... And the "ohmygodohmygod" factor kicks in when you are doing a playback and hit the "scrub" button and use the "ipod" wheel... You actually become a scratching VJ with video. It does exactly what it tells you: SCRUB the video image, back and forth, slow or fast, just play with the wheel and the image follows your finger with crystal clear results....
Very clever when you think you just missed a flag or a boom shadow in the mirror, scrub a bit and you have the exact image you are looking for in a split second.
All of this "record , playback, scrub, fast forward, reverse tricks" are INSTANT, no waiting, no lagging, it is completly transparent to your actions. The only thing that is not is the formatting of the hard disk. It takes about 30 seconds for the machine to achieve, but you will most probably do it once a day or a week to clear memory.
USB plug that connects to any computer (mac or pc): a marvelous thing is that all your clips are already ready to be exported in the Quicktime format to your laptop. Nice.
Service now: Mark Playdon is the sale manager and has been very responsive to all my email. this item is brand new and just out of the oven so it took a bit more time to deliver but it came in with apologies and all so I am very pleased for now of the service I have received from them. They are mostly "video assist " oriented but they seem to want to offer same quality service to "others" like steadicam operators.
Enough for now, a cable from sled to recorder is being made by David Hable in Vancouver as we speak. I hope to get it soon to fly this new toy.
A follow up story will be posted as soon as I use it in "real set condition".
Ah yes, almost forgot: 1500$US with nothing, no hard drive, no power supply ?!?, no variable speed, everything is an option, so goes around 2000$ all dressed depending on software options.
Cheers
Press record before flying safe.
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I have 2 millions liability insurance on sets. If anything happens ... I always picture myself tripping over an actor and the arm springs in his or her face.... ....And I am sure this is not the worst case scenario.
I have no reference for you since I live in Canada, maybe some LA guys could answer that one.
Fly safe and insured.
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Here's one,
http://cgi.ebay.com/Anton-Bauer-XM-2004-Qu...1QQcmdZViewItem
Cheers.
***by the way, the slave module won't charge the Dionics even if the main unit has had the chip upgrade. Ni-cad and Hytrons only...
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Hi Philip,
The genuine pop-up tent are the ones from www.pelsue.com.
Look under TENT AND SHELTER. The 6X6 is a minimum and great size for steadicam tent.
Fly dry.
Cheers
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Coming up in November with pictures and all, I am on holiday right now.
Camos Monitor from Cramped Attic (David Hable) and a DC528 Dewalt Flashlight, you can take it from there. Cheers.
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Hi all, check out my new portable monitor design at :Frederic.ca.
It is just a simple idea and it works. Batteries are good for 4 to 5 hours...
I saw something similar watching the "making of" of the latest Paris Hilton music video. I saw a glimpse of the director running on the beach with what seemed a modified Dewalt drill. Here is my version of it. I call it the "Gameboy".
Cheers!
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hi all,
As always, the kind of shooting problems we encounter are sometimes very hard to pinpoint. For once, I knew exactly what the trouble was. We shot a corporate commercial three weeks ago for one of the largest aluminum company in the world, ALCAN. We were granted entrance into a state of the art multi billion dollars complex where they produce primary metal in Alma , Quebec.
The first danger sign we read said something about such electric interference that your car airbag might go off without warning... And they told us any electronic or electric devices might just stop working and never work again... Nice. I should have asked for a bigger insurance premium. So I got my stuff out and prayed. Here are my observations:
Tube monitors or TV's are USELESS, the electric fields are so strong, no images ever, just color smears and pay-per-view scrambling stuff look-alike. No video village at all while in there, I actually have to open up my KV-9 to straighten up the image since it is now all crooked and have no "degauss" on that monitor. I wonder what a green screen would have looked like since I don't own one, but I am pretty positive it would have been a mess too. That is why I kissed my LCD screen when I realised it was not affected by the electric fields, the colors were off but I had a crystal clear image.
Scorpio remote worked 5/10, the thing would calibrate and respond but had "hiccups" meaning I had to get the link cable between remote and MDR to continue (I kissed that cable too since it was the first time I used it...).
Canatrans worked flawlessly with the only LCD monitor with tuner , my little 7" for the director. That one is strange, the monitor worked all day under these conditions with no flaw, I then turned it off at the end of the day, next morning, it was dead, never came back on. (quick note, I ordered Cramped Attic's little Camos monitor and it really is nice and crisp) The Canatrans got me a 10/10 image and was crisp and clean (minus the color changes still but I suspect the video tap from the Arri 435 (ARRi IVS) to be responsible for the color shifting).
The 435 was OK but reseted it's counter every time we powered down the camera, so we also checked the speed and shutter angle before each take. Just as a precaution. The rushes look great, the DP is a happy man, I can rest now.
This is probably the only time in my life I had to shoot in an aluminum smelter and casting complex but if I do go back there, I have now a couple of hints of what to expect and if one day an operator searches the forum for key words like " aluminum " " smelter " or " primary metal " ... this will appear as a "tip of the day" post.
Fly safe and recycle aluminum, you can not believe how much energy it takes to make some....
how many power I need?
in Batteries/Power
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Hi Julian,
You need to power the Arri III with two 12V cables to get more than 80 FPS, one in the crystal base, one in the camera. Your batteries should be fine.
The only problematic camera would be the 435 that needs a lot of amp's to start. The 535 and 235 should be ok also but you did the right thing by testing the Arri III before shooting. Make sure you do the same with the other cameras.
The Arri III will be the only camera to require 2 power cables in the Arri family.
Fly safe.