Frederic Chamberland

Hi all, check out my new portable monitor design at :Frederic.ca.

It is just a simple idea and it works. Batteries are good for 4 to 5 hours...

I saw something similar watching the "making of" of the latest Paris Hilton music video. I saw a glimpse of the director running on the beach with what seemed a modified Dewalt drill. Here is my version of it. I call it the "Gameboy".

Cheers!

hi all,

As always, the kind of shooting problems we encounter are sometimes very hard to pinpoint. For once, I knew exactly what the trouble was. We shot a corporate commercial three weeks ago for one of the largest aluminum company in the world, ALCAN. We were granted entrance into a state of the art multi billion dollars complex where they produce primary metal in Alma , Quebec.

The first danger sign we read said something about such electric interference that your car airbag might go off without warning... And they told us any electronic or electric devices might just stop working and never work again... Nice. I should have asked for a bigger insurance premium. So I got my stuff out and prayed. Here are my observations:

Tube monitors or TV's are USELESS, the electric fields are so strong, no images ever, just color smears and pay-per-view scrambling stuff look-alike. No video village at all while in there, I actually have to open up my KV-9 to straighten up the image since it is now all crooked and have no "degauss" on that monitor. I wonder what a green screen would have looked like since I don't own one, but I am pretty positive it would have been a mess too. That is why I kissed my LCD screen when I realised it was not affected by the electric fields, the colors were off but I had a crystal clear image.

Scorpio remote worked 5/10, the thing would calibrate and respond but had "hiccups" meaning I had to get the link cable between remote and MDR to continue (I kissed that cable too since it was the first time I used it...).

Canatrans worked flawlessly with the only LCD monitor with tuner , my little 7" for the director. That one is strange, the monitor worked all day under these conditions with no flaw, I then turned it off at the end of the day, next morning, it was dead, never came back on. (quick note, I ordered Cramped Attic's little Camos monitor and it really is nice and crisp) The Canatrans got me a 10/10 image and was crisp and clean (minus the color changes still but I suspect the video tap from the Arri 435 (ARRi IVS) to be responsible for the color shifting).

The 435 was OK but reseted it's counter every time we powered down the camera, so we also checked the speed and shutter angle before each take. Just as a precaution. The rushes look great, the DP is a happy man, I can rest now.

This is probably the only time in my life I had to shoot in an aluminum smelter and casting complex but if I do go back there, I have now a couple of hints of what to expect and if one day an operator searches the forum for key words like " aluminum " " smelter " or " primary metal " ... this will appear as a "tip of the day" post.

Fly safe and recycle aluminum, you can not believe how much energy it takes to make some....

Not reading the call-sheet...

3 stairs to go up following the actors with a full load (535), after 5 takes, director says : " Let's do the reverse now..." that meant preceding them, mix of DJ and climbing backwards. I froze halfway tru on the second take. My legs gave up on me. Gave the sled to the grip while trying to climb what is left on my own, director asks me what can we do and I answer "...you can do anything you want but you will do it without me..." ouch...

Let's just say I am not credited in that film. That was my first real job with a rental rig on a big movie of the week. I stepped away for 2 years before buying my own equipment and came back from dust.

This experience is my worst of all time on a set, there is still a couple of technicians who witnessed that stellar performance and just tease me sometimes with it.

read your call sheet. I do .

Here is more:

Camos

Hi Will,

The low-mode bracket does exists, ask your rental house to get it, or if you have time, Locations Michel Trudel, the Arri rental house here in Montreal, has one, ask for Guy at the camera department, 514-932-2171.

It looks like the Arricam LT plate, same design. Lots of holes and very sturdy, takes 1 minute to install. Worth the trouble to get it.

Click here for 235 PDF..Page 3 shows bracket

Fly safe.

Hi all,

Just want to comment on the service I received this last month from different manufacturer and people related to our world...

My Sachtler Artemis Cine-Hd rig gave me trouble when I used a fresh set of brand new Hytron 50 a month ago and blew up my Canatrans , I had some voltage going thru the video line of my sled, ouch... This happened without me noticing it, just that the Canatrans was not working anymore and had some "loose part" sound when shaking it...

When Emery at Lentequip opened it up, he mentionned something like"...looks like you opened the unit up, threw the electronics in a fire, put them back and sealed the unit again..." I had my unit re-built and running (with firmware upgrade) in less than 4 days.

Then my Scorpio went to a special place called oblivion where it would only calibrate on one side, this time not because of the sled's power but just a manufacturing defect that arised 2 years later, David Hable at Cramped Attic sent me a loaner MDR the day after my call and I will have waited for that one to be repaired about 8 days.

While that is happening, my sled is sent back to Eching, Gemany, and Curt Shaller tells me he has redone my electronics and battery power distribution for me to have more power using 435 and 535 without using my special modification I had done earlier wich permitted me to put 4 Hytron 50 together ... Now , I will use a "special blend" of Ni-cad and Ni-Mh without adding more batteries. Sled was back from Germany in less than a week. Curt also put a PDF with my new electronic schematics with color coded wiring and added some switches to use that extra power or not.

So there it is , I want to mention that Emery, David and Curt all called me on my phone after receiving my emails and all of them offered a loaner for the next day, wich I accepted in the case of the Scorpio since I had a job the next week. I was able to go to another operator, Geoff St-Hilaire, to lend his sled and transmitter.

All of these guys have gone the extra mile to offer me what is called a FIVE STARS SERVICE. I have had my sled for 4 years now and this was the first time I had so much to be repaired at the same time and first real "emergency" since the high season for jobs is starting now. And living in what I call a "remote" location for that kind of job, I love to think that my business is as important to them as it is to me.

And the bills? Let's just say my FEDEX account will miss the 4 digits by a couple of bucks this month...But hey, as I said to everyone on the phone, just make it happen, and they did. Thanks to everyone.

Picture taken on set but applies to the week.

Hi Bryan,

I have had the same hickups from receiver but managed to now have a strong and solid signal 90% of the time by re-positioning the 2 units. A very good thing is the tally on the transmitter, I put that one also in sight so I have both lights in my view.

Hope that helps.

Frederic

Hi all,

Working on a GM commercial with DP Steve Asselin and while doing some 180? shots around the car outside in the sun, he asks me if we can put one motor on the Pola to be able to rotate it while flying...

Since our LMB-5 clip on has been modified to accept 138mm round pola, it usually rotates with a small round knob covered with rubber that turns the pola while in it's slot. So we flipped the clip-on upside down to have that little knob underneath and put the iris motor on it, the rubber was soft enough to grip into the motor gears without slipping. Powered the motor, manually did some limits on it and voila, Steve made some specific marks on the iris slider and we pulled that one off with a couple of rods and adapters.

The picture tells it all. Thanks to my 1st AC, Eric Benssoussan who actually convinced me to try, because I tought at first the rubber would slip and we would loose time we did not have.

We now have a very happy DP , a proud 1st AC and a surprised but happy operator.

Hi Gordon,

If your job is tomorrow night, I would advise to try to get your hands on the camera and accessories in the morning to make it work and if not, run to the rental house with your sled to adjust. As for accessories like remote focus and video sender, if you can't power them from the sled, I used to velcro an NP-1 battery with a XLR 4 adapter for such accessories in case of emergency. Cheap to rent a couple for that occasion.

Every time I have to face a new camera, I always try to go to the rental house to check it out first, it really is reassuring to get on set knowing you just put that camera on your sled earlier. And helps you put your mind on the shots to do and not the "too short power cable" or the "why don't I have the focus gear for that lens" or even (and I have sweat thru that one) : "my dovetail plate won't fit under that camera base plate"...

fly safe

Frederic Chamberland

hi,

As Alec mentionned, make sure the insurance from the production covers all, my own insurance will cover my equipment over water only if I call them first and pay a small extra fee for that particular day. Good to check the small characters on your own insurance ...

Fly safe.

Thanks Alec,

I did call in at the rental house to know about this extra connector, with no results. I should have asked here first I guess. This is a relief to know I can actually use my 24vArri start stop cable next time.

Cheers.

Hi Jason,

There is two major things to look after on the Pro 35. First, every time you power down the Pro 35 (change of batteries) it has to be re-powered on (the power switch is intermittent, it has to be pressed again when power is back) This alone is a major thing to look after since you still have an image in the OFF position. also remind your assistants to look after this.

Also, the On-Off of the Sony camera for your remote focus goes thru the lens connector, the same that powers the Pro 35 ... So you won't be able to use your On-off cable to start the camera from the remote. Put a BIG tape on the on-off off the remote to remind your focus puller to start the camera "manually" and not from the remote.

i am sure someone here probably had different cables made to power the Pro 35 from another connector to be able to use their On-Off cable. If I had a couple of days to shoot with this setup, I would probably go for that solution.

and finally , I strongly recommend a Tally light ( I got mine mainly for HD jobs) since I operate with the viewfinder off to take some weight off, the only light remaining is at the rear of the camera, not enough for me to be confortable knowing the camera is rolling or not.

Hi all

 

Just received and tested mine. NICE! Simple design, compact, runs on a 9 volt ...and wireless. item was delivered on time as promised, no hassle .

 

Here is the reason I bought one:

 

I was flying a Sony 900 with Pro-35 adapter. The Pro-35 was taking it's power from the Sony camera, directly from the lens connector (the one we use to On/Off the camera with our remote focus systems). As you guessed, the on/off cable was not used because of this configuration and we forgot about it; there is one shot that was NEVER recorded because we used the On/off from the remote instead off starting the camera manually...

 

That thing would have saved me a call from the producer nobody wants to answer.

 

My 29,900 cents + shipping.

 

Fly safe, with the lights on

This was taken from the "bracket/widgets" section under "Wireless tally is here!"

fly safe

HOW MUCH DID FRED CHARGE YOU FOR THAT MOD.?

 

THE TEK GUY AT THE CAMERA RENTAL HOUSE OFFER THAT MOD TO ME, BUT HE MENTIONED HE WOULD USE THE SAME VOLTAGE TRANSFORMERS THAT ARE USED IN THE CELL PHONE CAR CHARGERS, SINCE CELPHONES WORK WITH 5 VOLTS TOO.

189$ and he used all my connectors (Lemo and Archos), so add up another 70/100$ for the Lemo plug and you are around the same price as a gently used Archos unit on Ebay. How many times the cables for a device costs us more than the device itself? History just tends to repeat itself...

Hi all

Just received and tested mine. NICE! Simple design, compact, runs on a 9 volt ...and wireless. item was delivered on time as promised, no hassle .

Here is the reason I bought one:

I was flying a Sony 900 with Pro-35 adapter. The Pro-35 was taking it's power from the Sony camera, directly from the lens connector (the one we use to On/Off the camera with our remote focus systems). As you guessed, the on/off cable was not used because of this configuration and we forgot about it; there is one shot that was NEVER recorded because we used the On/off from the remote instead off starting the camera manually...

That thing would have saved me a call from the producer nobody wants to answer.

My 29,900 cents + shipping.

Fly safe, with the lights on

Hi Marc,

Since the cable is so short, open the cradle and you can actually just rip it off, the soldering is very light (I used a pair of scissors and snip every small cable one by one). If you don't want to destroy your unit, type ARCHOS CRADLE on Ebay, between 15 to 50$.

Cheers.

Thanks for the clarification Ikarman, I always refer to PRO specifications but own a Sachtler Artemis , which is all PRO connectors specs. And changing the voltage at the sled is much nicer but these devices change so oftently, I just prefer to adapt the gadget rather than the sled and keep my options open.

(If I'm not mistaken, the original 9v out from PRO sled was to power the Sony Video8/HI8 recorder, the only portable solution at the time).

Fly safe

Here it is, thanks to Fred Davis, the cable feeding all (video in/out and power) from Archos to PRO sled.

Here are the instructions: take out the Archos plug (leave as much cable as you can) from the "Archos Base" (the small unit that comes with every recorder to plug directly to your TV), put in an enveloppe to the attention of Fred Davis, he will take care of the rest. See the pictures attached, first you can clearly see the down converter (small black box) that takes your sled 12v and powers it down to Archos 5v. the small clear heatshrink is where the original Archos cable ended.

My recorder is the in the 400 model series.

***Of course, taking the plug from the base implies you ruin the functionnality of it and renders the enormous remote control completly useless***This cable was made with PRO specifications but can surely be adapted to other sleds, contact Fred Davis***

hi Denny,

Last I know, you have to go thru Germany to get a Artemis rig. email Curt Shaller : curt@sachtler-hd.com

He is the one that will get you the prices and all the specs (he's also an operator, so he knows his stuff).

I am located in Montreal and got my Artemis Cine-HD from Germany. At the time, I hesitated between a PRO and Sachtler, and it came down to money, my canadian money was worth more in Euro than Us dollar. Now it is the exact opposite, so would I do it again? I would probably go for PRO now but I don't regret one second having bought a Sachtler. I have had it for almost 4 years now and it serves me well. At the time, I was saving about 20% over same PRO package (sled , arm, vest).

If you ever come to Montreal , please let me know, we can arrange something so you can see it all. Maybe the Formula One weekend? (june) or Madonna concert? (june also)

And at the SOA workshop, you will probably try out different rigs so take notes and try them all if you can, you will be busy for the next couple of months, enjoy.

Cheers. Good luck.

Or try Emery (who sold you your Canatrans) at Lentequip, he got me a Sony TU1041 Tuner that is by far, one of the best receivers out there for the price. And I am pretty sure they have a PAL version. Problem is they are really hard to get and I remember Emery having one or two left at the time of my order (6 months ago). He could even change the "F" socket to a BNC on the antenna input. That is the only modification you will need on this tuner to have a five star receiver (this mod is not essential, but recommended).

PROS: simple to use, EXCELLENT reception, 12vDC (4 pins XLR) or 110 AC ,it's a Sony.

CONS: Costs around 450$US, a bit chubby (9"X2"X14").

As a Canatrans user myself, I am now using my Sony tuner combined with a CIT Sharkfin antenna all the time and I don't hesitate to ask the video assist person to use my stuff first when I get on sets. And with excellent results for this RF magic.

Sony Tuner

Fly safe

Hi ,

Try :

StickerJunkie

Cheap, simple, one color, one font, one size. The size is perfect for cases and carts. Tough vinyl will go for the long run. I got my stickers for 6 months now and they still hold without blemishing. Very good quality.

I still use a good old Brother p-touch for small pieces.

Do you have any contact info for David Hable?

David Hable Web site

David Hable is truly an asset to any Steadicam operator, mostly for all electronics and Scorpio products from Service Vision. He does a lot more , check his website.

Hi,

Also check TELETEST . Their 7" SDI LCD is new, but seems a good compromise and they are built like tanks. I have had the regular version for 3 years and it still gives me a great image. Service is really good. Image flip, 16.9, 4.3, Anton bauer mount compatible, Anti reflective glass that actually works, and the prices are all on the web.

Worth a look

Hi,

Now a proud owner of a Canatrans, my other sender is for sale on Ebay:

Click Here for description

Great for newbies. Cheap and solid. Probably the only thing electronic in my package that NEVER failed me once.

I also have a GV-D200 recorder for sale, check in "Sellers other items for sale" on the Ebay page...Parts only, it just went beserk yesterday. . . Just bought myself a Archos 420 , God I hope it performs half as well in the cold as my Sony "minus 25 and still rolling" recorder.

instructions for an electric battery warmer powered by your sled.

-Buy a baby bottle warmer for the car (12v) , got one from Wal-Mart for 10$.

It is simply design like a very small warming blanket, just unwrap it from the bottle by removing the vinyl shell.

-Take off the 12v car adapter and put your 12v connector that fits the bottom of your sled.

-Put some velcro here and there to cover the batteries and voila...

-The thing is not too power hungry and it keeps my batteries and recorder very warm.

-No waste from multiple hand warmers that last 1 hour...

Fly safe and toasty.

Hi,

What Alec said is true, you lose some voltage going thru the post, I also fly a Artemis HD: I had a cable made with bigger gage on the power line.

Two solutions:

1- Get a Hytron 120 or a big Propac, that should do the trick. Any "small" battery will cry for hunger.

2- Get a cable made directly from the AB plug on the battery holder to the camera power, 100% juice directly from battery, the drawback is in the camera movements, you now have a cable in the way to do some 360 on the gimbal. Should work alright in most cases.

Fly safe.