Lars Erik
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Posts posted by Lars Erik
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Hi Steve,
the rig is identical to the original U2. The only difference is that all the "goodies" are stripped from the c version. Like motorized stage and so forth.
I returned the rig to the company I bought it from. They checked it several times and found no problem.
I got it back and the problem I've had seemed to have gotten a lot better. So all apologies to Tiffen and the lot for the time they've spent on this.
There are still a couple of factors that are unclear to me.
1) a few times, not often, the rig will be off level, about 5 degrees, fore/aft after a tilt. I then correct it using the gimbal, no trim, and it stays at level. Why it acts like this I don't know.
2) There is still a "clunk" noise somewhere in the rig, most likely the gimbal. When I tilt it and the rig reaches about 60-70 degrees, the noise comes. According to the company I bought it from, they said this was normal according to Tiffen, as the bearings will shift if the rig is tilted. This may be, the thing is, my Archer doesn't do this. And if the U2 is supposed to do this, I would imagine the clunk noise would come closer to 180 degrees rather than only after 60-70 degrees?
Any thoughts?
PS! The video link is removed, as that problem is fixed.
LE
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Sony F-35 out on a road trip...
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Hi all,
just saw this on the telly and looked it up on youtube. The shot I'm talking about is at 1:05. The penalty. The camera, which is a SkyCam type I guess, is a great perspective. Any of you French guys know for sure what kind of system this is?
Almost like playing FIFA 10 on P3 for those of you who's a game junkie.
LE
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There is definately need for HD signals these days, at least in my humble opinion and experience. Even towards us operators. The DP and Director is so used to hard wired signals from RED and other HiDef cameras, that even tough they won't demand it, your next job might depend upon it.
As the director on my last feature asked when we used my SD the boxx on a RED, "Why's the image all fuzzy?"
That's when I thought, "that's it. I'm getting the Miranda." Now the directors are really pleased that you're bringing wireless HD signals to the job. So unless you f**k up the job, they'll talk about you in a positive way because you brought a HD unit. It's a new world that will hit us, even if we like it or not.
LE
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Considering selling the rig now in parts.
So if you're interested in the battery stage or the top stage or whatever, make me an offer. The gimbal is already reserved.
Rig:
http://www.steadicamforum.com/index.php?showtopic=10721
LE
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I see I haven't been clear here. I wrote this late last night. So missed out the fact the I'm talking about a tilt movement, and I did a complete 360. It's just before the rig reaches the end of the 360 something shifts, most likely in the gimbal. Causing the rig to become off when it comes to fore/aft.
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Milos,
thanks,
the lower part of the yoke is now stiff. The click is still there, and so is the fore/aft problem...
I did a very, very precise balance. Left/right is fine, but also when I turn the rig 90 degrees while it's vertical, there is a change in the fore/aft also.
LE
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Hi all,
just purchased brand new U2c. And had it for about 10 days, hasn't been out on a job yet. Only tested a few times with a small 1/2" camera and weight cage.
Today I did a 180 when the rig was on the docking stand and I noticed a very small clicking sound in the gimbal. When I returned the rig to its normal position it was off, fore/aft.
I did a new DB and did the same procedure, same result. I noticed the first joint of the gimbal seemed very loose. Is this the cause of it? The middle joint has some looseness also to the last gimbal joint.
I did a short video to demonstrate.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84Nt4J7Gq-A
Hope someone can tell me this is something I can fix with the blue whale tool. As stated, the rig is brand new. :blink:
LE
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The current arrangement is four short stubby antennae on both TX and the handheld version of the RX. Well,if you want to get into video stuff such as tally, genlock, data etc there's a 5th stubby antenna on the TX. A bit of a forest-like arrangement, but it works.
Hi Jason,
you have an R/x unit with antennaes? Is this something they just have released? I have the Elite version and there is just the antennaes on the T/x.
Yes, it looks very promising. I've used it a few times so far, with great results. The range is beyond 60m. And the range is also very good indoors.
LE
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Hi Damon,
in my own personal experience, whenever I get pain in my lower back, it's usually because I've fitted the vest wrong. Try making the vest tiny bit longer and see if it helps. This way you'll shift the weight down more to your hips.
Good luck. And don't rush it. January isn't that far away. Doing Steadicam the wrong way isn't very good for your body and muscles.
LE
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Taken some items off and lowered the price.
Items:
Archer rig HD-SDI
Docking bracket
Allen wrench
Extra gimbal screws
7" 700nit composite monitor
F-bracket
Archer dovetail x2
Arm posts x2 - one normal, one long. Long one is 30cm/11.81inches
(These are arm posts that Tiffen specially made so you can have a Master/Ultra/G-70 arm if desired.)
Cables:
Archer 3-pin Lemo to 12v video power cable x2
Archer 3-pin Lemo to RED 12v power cable x1
Archer 3-pin Lemo to 24v ARRI 435/ST/LT x1
Thin BNC cable x1
NO ARM, NO VEST
Still comes in the original black Steadicam flight case.
Now asking €8300/$12400
Buyer pays for shipping.
Contact me either by phone +4797194150 or mail, post@steadi.no
LE
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The rig is getting a complete service and check up by official dealer of Steadicam in Scandinavia, Hofmann Teknik AB.
www.hofmann.se
Also the rig has been wired for HD-SDI, all you need a an HD monitor.
LE
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Hi all,
isn't Steadicam a protected name? I know PRO and MK-V use "camera stabilizer" instead of steadicam.
link to site on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/menbocy-009-steadicam-...=item439ad3808b
LE
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final picture
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Sadly I’m selling my Archer sled with custom built battery mount. The rig was bought in November of 2005. Delivered in February from Tiffen in 2006. Only one owner. Never rented out.
A great video and light film rig.
This is a 12v/24v rig. Batteries are V-lock style.
The monitor is the original 7" TFT 700nit monitor with framelines.
I’ve had many cameras on this rig. Ranging from RED, SR2, SR3, 416, Aaton 16mm, Sony F-900 w/ Pro35, Panasonic AJ-HPX3700/3000 w/ Pro35, 2/3” video, 1/3” video.
3 different weights are included. These are attached under the battery mount, there is a dovetail there. Weights are there to give you a wider range of desired sled length. But you in most cases, if you don’t want to use them, there is no need. The bottom dovetail can also be used to attach Antlers.
Items:
Archer rig
Docking bracket
Allen wrench
Extra gimbal screws
7" monitor
Low-mode kit
Sony video camera bracket
Archer dovetail x2
Arm posts x2 - one normal, one long. Long one is 30cm/11.81inches
(These are arm posts that Tiffen specially made so you can have a Master/Ultra/G-70 arm if desired.)
Cables:
Archer 3-pin Lemo to 12v video power cable x2
Archer 3-pin Lemo to 4-pin hirose 12v x1
Archer 3-pin Lemo to RED 12v power cable x1
Archer 3-pin Lemo to 24v power cable x1
Archer 3-pin Lemo to 24v ARRI 435/ST/LT x1
Thin BNC cable x1
NO ARM, NO VEST
Selling due to upgrading to U2.
Comes in the original black Steadicam flight case.
Asking €9000
Buyer pays for shipping.
Contact me either by phone +4797194150 or mail, post@steadi.no
LE
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Great. Thanks Fabrizio.
Fly safe!
LE
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You said that is has HD/SD, the one you used. I guess you were sending 1080 signal?
Sounds like the T/x is a little smaller than theboxx HD Meridian system.
It has 15,6 x 14,5 x 3,9 cm / 6,14 x 5,70 x 1,53 inches (LxWxD)
Theboxx also has 2 antennas which are 13 cm / 5,18 inches long.
Titan is very light though. Impressive. A PowerCube weighs 744 grams / 1.64 pounds.
The boxx weighs in at 724 grams / 1.59 pounds. That said, the body is a lot more robust than it's predecessor. Don't know what the body of the Titan feels like. If I ever get s**tloads of cash I'll do a destruction test on theboxx... :P
Sounds like the Titan is a bit better than theboxx, although that can change, as theboxx has firmware updates which most likely will come. But then again Titan has this too. Titan is a bit more expensive though. Don't know if the price of the Titan is with or without VAT. But if it is, it's at least €1000 higher priced.
Hope all is well in Amsterdam and guess you're enjoying your new relationship with the A2.
LE
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Hi all,
getting a new case for my wireless video.
Only times I've encountered PortaBrace is when I shoot ENG, and get one of those soft camera cases. Never tried one of their hard cases before.
Anyone got any experience with these, compared to a similar sized Pelican?
link:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller...5613&is=REG
Thanks for any tips or help
LE
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Interesting Chris,
personally when I've used Titan in the past, I've been extremely disapointed, mostly because of a poor picture signal. This is not the new HD system though. So how this will function in the real world, will be exciting to get news of.
A few questions;
- did the signal have any noise in it? Specially in the black/darker areas of the screen.
- what does the T/x weigh?
- what are the dimensions of the T/x?
LE
Ultra2 gimbal
in Gimbal
Posted
Hi Jerry.
I had this pinned down as the nr 1 cause at the start, as I've had similar problems with my Archer. I've tightened ALL screws that are accessible, same result.
When I try to push fore/aft, it might have a little play in it. But we're talking less than 1mm/0.039". Could this be the cause? I still suspect this to be the problem. According to Hofmann, they found nothing wrong, and they also stated that the "clunk" noise was normal. Something I found a bit strange, to say the least.
Only place I haven't checked is the fore/aft screw. Spoke to Robin T. at Tiffen UK, and he said I could try and unscrew the fore/aft screw and check if everything is 100% tight there. The thing is, I unscrewed the little safety screw out of the fore/afte adjustment screw, but the fore/aft adjustment screw wouldn't move. Afraid of damaging it, I never did try to take it off.
PS! Have moved the fore/aft all the forward and all the way back, so in theory, if it moves it should only move one way...right? But the noise it makes is identical to earlier...
Jens; how do you go about checking the top-stage connection, it's impossible to get to that connection. I did do a test by trying to move the top stage back forwards left right, but it seems to be hard rock solid there.
Lars E