Lars Erik

Just out of curiosity. Why doesn't the operator ever tell the tank driver to stop? The shot obviously doesn't work... :blink:

New price;

$350/€235.

Hi Ed,

did a feature w/ 900 about a year ago on my Archer. Set-up was 900, Pro35, mattebox, 14mm, FF, CanaTrans and battery (Hytron 50, 850g) for the CanaTrans. I think I had a battery also on the camera, this due to the front heaviness of the set-up.

It weighed in at about 18.5kg/40lbs. I have a G-70 though. The 50 can take 22.5kg.The Archer weighs in at 4kg. With a Hytron 120 on the sled (2.5kg), you're already over the limit of the arm. You should test this set-up before doing the job. And yes, you will need to add extra weight at the bottom of the sled, or else it won't work. In my experience I would say the arm would be an issue, specially if the DP and/or director wants the camera higher, the arm will drop a bit, for sure.

Good luck

LE

Selling an almost never used Sekonic Dualmaster L-558 meter. Cine version.

Asking $400/270 Euro

Buyer pays for shipping & Paypal fees.

LE

Hi all,

just finished my 3rd RED project with just few weeks apart. There's alot of RED these days.

Anyway, I've made some new discoveries. The RED drive is VERY sensitive to vibration. We did a weeks commercial with several shots being done on water. The drive went crazy when there were waves around. And the waves were very small. The drive dropped a lot, so we had to go and shoot on CF cards. This worked out fine. I heard that RED is coming out with a new drive next year. It's supposed to be a lot more stable. So if you ever do shots with vibration, bring CF cards!

And the start-up time is driving everybody on set crazy! I wish they could sort that out. Maybe get a small battery inside the camera that would power it for a few seconds, so that you don't have to have a 90 seconds start-up time every time you change battery...

LE

Our ?pro? version remote will be priced below $2000 and offer the same functions as a C-motion system. Please remember you may have issues and as with most systems none have all the features everyone wants in them.If you have any questions you can direct them to our forum. BTW I don't think of our system as a backup, just new and affordable.

 

Very excellent. By far the C-Motion unit is my favorite with the exception of a few things. What frequency is the system using?

According to their website, it uses a 2.4 gHz frequency

I was sent a link from a focus puller friend of mine.

There's a new system coming soon called Viewfactor. You can use it as either a wireless unit, or a hands on unit. But the system is under $3000. Hmm...anybody know anything about this?

http://www.viewfactor.net/khxc/index.php?a...&ref=splash

LE

Hi Louis,

about two weeks ago I used my BFD on the RED w/ ON/OFF remote cable from Jim.

I had no problems with it. We used build 13 and build 15. Do you know which build you've got?

I've enclosed a picture where I inserted Jim's plug. Can't remember what the plug on the RED is called.

LE

Tthere is also the new WEVI with similar specs (1080, HD-SDI, virtually no latency) showing at the IDX booth--that unit is around $6K and is due to ship in July.

 

 

They are going to use "Dexter" as their beta dial in show, I should have two the first week of June and will report on the units performance

Hi Eric,

do you know if the new system from Wevi will require a V-Lock battery style power, or will it be possible to power it from the rig?

LE

Hi all,

I noticed that the-boxx.tv has a new HD wireless unit out. They're showing at booth C3115 at NAB. It has HDSDI / SDI / Component and Composite.

It would be great if someone who'd had a chance to check it out wrote a tiny note about it here on the forum.

I would love to go, but can't. So if anyone has a chance to look at it, and wants to say a few words, that would be very interesting. Always better to hear what fellow ops have to say, than the seller.

LE

Look very, very nice.

One point though, the bottom part looks quite light. This makes me think of what will happen to the set-up when flying the bigger cameras. One would have to lower the gimbal or make the sled quite long. Am I right in this assumption? Anyone know? Just asking because I'm a short sled guy.

LE

Great, Garrett.

Thank you for the fast reply. I just sent an e-mail to Dan.

No need to apologize. These things happen.

Hope all is well.

Best regards

Lars-Erik

Hi everyone,

I just finished a shoot and went over my equipment to check that everything was ok.

I found that one of the screws holding the post part to the top part of the G-70 arm was loose. After a little investigation I found out that the screw was fine. It's the threads in the top part of the arm that was worn out. Which is really strange since I have only once unscrewed it to fasten the part which tightens the post.

I will most likely have to replace the part, which is probably the best, but has anyone experienced the same problem?

LE

Hi Ed,

we had the standard camera plate that is delivered with the RED. As I said they stated that the cheeseplate was the 100% solid one.

I just think it's bizarre that the RED team makes a camera plate which is very loose, it was so loose it was even totally unacepptable for standard tripod work.

LE

Doing a shoot with the RED camera these days.

I have to use the RED camera plate due to the lower 19mm rods. These rods is in conflict with my top stage. Therefore the bracket.

This bracket is quite awful. It's very bad. When we (me & focus puller), attached it to the camera the first time, the plate was not 100% interlocked. I would say it's about 3 times as bad as a regurlar 2/3" bracket. We e-mailed the RED team about this.

They told us the RED camera bracket was never supposed to be a 100% rock steady camera plate. It was intendted for handheld work. If you want a 100% steady plate, we recommend the cheeseplate we got. Although, if you want to use the standard plate, you can use a business card (of paper, not plastic) and place this where the plate interlocks with the camera. This will punch a hole through to the camera and steady it.

I'm not sure what I'm mostly amazed about, the fact that they made a plate that isn't stable, or that they had researched how to fix the problem by using a business card...

The business card didn't fix the problem. We had to use paper tape and tape this to the edges of the camera plate. This made it a lot better. At least acceptable. Anyone else experienced this problem and have a different solution to this problem?

That said; the camera itself is very good. Even though there are a lot of practical faults to it. But I suspect the RED team will fix this in the months to come. But this camera is a huge step in the right direction of HD.

LE

First of all, I have to apologize for posting this, as I'm sure I've read something about this here before. But searched, and found nothing.

I use the BFD w/ M-One. The M-One is making small, but quite high squeaky noise while it's being used.

Does anyone know why this happens, and how it can be fixed? If it can be fixed, or at least minimized?

LE

Anyone tried Cowon Portable Media Player?

http://www.cowonglobal.com/

LE

That looks fantastic - what's the actual price though?

 

Ed

This is a quote I got from Michael Hofmann at Hofmann Teknik in Sweden,

1) EUR 2850/USD 4.310 (IKEA-price*) for the AT-AT base including an additional passive battery mount of your choice and bottom dovetail.

2) EUR 560/USD 850 for the monitor mount adapted for the AT-AT base including a yoke for the 700 nits 7? monitor.

3) EUR 710/USD 1080 for 12/24V version if modified at the same time as mounting the AT-AT base at Hofmann in Sweden including 3 hour assembling time to make the AT-AT modification (1).

* Do the modification yourself. Easy to do if you know how to handle a screwdriver and uncomplicated soldering. Instruction included.

For any questions regarding the upgrade, please contact Michael at;

mof@hofmann.se

LE

This is a really well-considered mod. I'm happy to give it my unqualified recommendation.

 

All praise to Lars-Erik Kristiansen for taking the initiative, and to Michael Hofmann and his team for pulling it off at a great price.

 

http://www.hofmann.se/produkter/steadicam/...rcher/index.htm

C'mon Chris, remember that you're the one who called me up and first put me on the idea of rebuilding the rig after my accident. So praise needs to go out to you too.

But the rig has become excellent. And thanks for all the PM's from everyone and all who's commented on the new rig.

LE

My RED shoot is coming up soon.

And I look back with horror at the jobs were I have had to do fast paced shots with video camera plates. (widgety, invested in Chrosziel plate now, which is a large improvement. Nothing near Arri plates though)

Anyway, my question is this;

anyone had any bad experience with the RED camera plate yet? Or is it all good?

LE

Thanks Rob & Kurt,

have a nice one!

LE

Hello Kurt,

how are things? I noticed on your webiste you really got something going. Great! I like your mule vehicle! Nice.

The upgrade I did after speaking to Chris Fawcett a lot. (Thanks Chris! And thanks to Michael Hofmann and Per at Hofmann Teknik)

It's all custom built, except the monitor mount. This is Transvideo barcket intended for the Master series. But with a little bit of drilling, it suits perfect for the new Archer.

I'll PM you some words how it behaves.

And yes, Hofmann are taking orders for Archer owners who want to upgrade. I know Colin Donahue is interested.

LE

I've had this done at Hofmann of Sweden. (www.hofmann.se)

As you can see, the monitor bracket is now moveable, which it isn't with the original Archer. I'm very, very pleased with the result. And the rig behaves flawless.

The dovetail on the bottom is to attach Antlers and extra weight for flying heavy cameras.

LE

Rebuilt Archer

Rebuilt Archer