Thomas English

same same

I carry a few large plumbing hose clamp in my kit for this occurance. It has never happened yet.

Did you strip the Kip lock or the actual clamp?

Lars is technically totally right but....

buy a cheap glidecam and get out there and learn from youtube and have fun. Never let us professionals put you off your dreams.

I just bought a Glidecam 2000HD for a different application. Just control the gimble from the middle and not "tapping it" from the bottom like in the youtube videos.

It should be fine. You just need an adaptor made for two 15mm bars to come out the front, a C-Spacer for your top of of your post and let the centre cable out and some longer screws. I am sure Ash at MK-V would be more than happy to help.

Motorbike cover and they get bigger on one end for the handle bars which is perfect if you have a sled docked on your mag liner.

Plenty of us have old 3A topstages for sale. I have one too if Michaels doesn't help ro for future readers.

"Its a $40. Solution u could return to the store at the end even." Haha.. I'll get art department to buy one! Take it back at the end of the week. Really I should be posting this in homebuilt stabilizer forum or something.

I am looking to handbash (no vest and arm) a red Epic (internal battery) and a SUPER wide EF mount lens for an experimental / science project for planetariums. I am looking at the Merlin which is underpowered and there are lots of other really cheap options on the internet.

I've balanced a Merlin up before as well as various friends cheap alternatives at parties mostly when drunk and chatting. I know how fussy they are. What is a good value brand of these handheld gimble stabilizers? The Merlin itself is not actually strong enough and I am not sure I want to spend £500 on an experimental project which is what the Tiffen and Glidecam offerings seem to be.

Apparently Lithium batteries are damaged when fully charged and fully empty. They lose about 1% of charge a day.

My new policy is to only charge the batteries I used that day and charge all the batteries once every 2 to 4 weeks depending on my life.

"Cooking" batteries is a great way to reduce their longevity by all accounts.

What are we saying? New power cable and new run cable? Does it have RS out? D-Taps?

Igor, that is mental.... I am impressed and afraid.

Did it have a dial Charles? I was looking at the digital microforce and the knob on the bottom was a solid black with no dial.

The simplest modification I've seen is simply to tap a large threaded hole into the side of the metal wall and screw in a large bolt. When you want lock you just screw the bolt in a couple of turns and it touches the metal wheel wall and locks the wheel. Super simple and you don't need that much pressure. I've not done it myself but it did work well.

MATE

I'LL BUY YOU TEN PINTS AT CAMERIMAGE!

THANKS!!!!

The plastic cover fell off the dial of my microforce zoom controller. Preston no longer make this item. Any idea where I can get a new one from?

So that is simple enough. You got to get the new Gen IV jumper blocks and hack them but your not allowed to cry to GPI-PRO when you fry the camera and rig. Fair enough.

There are all sorts of funny electrical; floating negative issues that fry BOXX TX's, WEVIS, My Testicals and ARRI ALEXAS that PRO or other manufacturers don't want to take responsibility for. Knock yourselves out. Buy more blocks but LABEL them correctly!

You can just get different battery wiring blocks made to do what you want.

4 blue and 2 black will do you for anything except heavy AR rig, 3D or any other odd one. I've had 2 blue 2 black for ages and I do loads of AR.

Romanian Deadlifts are an accessory for the Deadlift. Very few people here (including myself) have double bodyweight deadlifts and are stalling on getting them higher so really, to my mind there is zero point unless you enjoy them for some weird reason. Simple Deadlifting is a bigger compound exercise so best keep things simple.

Turkish Get-Ups, Clean and Jerk and Snatch all have plenty of crossover to Steadicam.

What I am interested in is Ron's Shotsaver / Cart transformer unit.

I've a magliner. Its strong. It gets pushed about. Sometimes I take the docking bazooka end off and put it on the camera teams magliners on the camera truck. I think the best thing is when someone else pushes your magliner. I like that combo the most.

Basically yes your fine mixing most standard vlock brands except red batteries. The only thing is they won't multi charge but charge one at a time and some of the intelligent information might not come through but don't worry about it. Charge your batteries. When there is no info on an intelligent charger it just reverts back to a basic charging pattern. It's fine.

Hmmmm

I've been through a lot of Antennas having had a Switronix before the Boxx and I have to say that whilst the Boxx antennas at £100 are ten times the price of all the dual band antenna you can get on Ebay / Amazon they are 10 times better. Its a high wearing item that is easily mistreated. Any Antenna that can handle 5.7band is fine so long as you have the correct SMA connector on the receiver. On the TX side you'll need a SMA to BNC adaptor. I've never seen one for sale but certain they are available.

Basically what I am saying is that as far as I know and my hours of googling just buy the Boxx ones. They are good. Let me know though if you do come up with anything.

Tuesday morning before anyone has bought any coffee.

Likewise I am unsure what the fuss is about. Knocking about a mattbox here or there does happen and its a fantastic manipulation of the rig, a lot of fun I am sure on the day and I am certain there will be super dinamic moments in there to cut into the edit. Fun is what we hare here for no?

There are Boxx units in London that are 24v. Hired from Take 2 a big UK and South African rental firm but I thought they were custom. So the newer ones can take 24v and older ones not?