William Demeritt

In that case, I'd probably ask if he can explain what shots they're trying to get, and why they think Movi is right for the task. If it's a budgetary decision, then I'd say that's that. If it's a creative decision, who knows, there probably are some benefits for using it for that purpose. If it's the future, lots of variables are reintroduced: camera weight dropping, stabilization equipment added to the MOVI, etc? It's a pretty broad question, and hard to really distill into a single answer since some shots, given the current equipment, would choose a dolly OR a Steadicam for some shots. Some shots do overlap on those pieces of equipment.

Now I gotta go call my father and make sure he wasn't killed by a $15k camera stabilizer. THANKS BRIAN.

However, he is calling to give you a chance to save your job. What do you tell him? What makes steadicam so much better?

"Go fuck yourself. If you think you have the power to call me up, tell me about a cheap piece of shit equipment that somehow glorifies your production and gives your DP the warm and fuzzies, you're completely mistaken. Maybe you called me thinking you'd enjoy making someone beg for their job, to 'save my job'. Well, I'd rather back over my Steadicam with a steam roller and watch reality TV producers piss all over the flattened remains than let you get away with the thought you'd make me beg for a goddamn thing. So, do me a favor: never call me again. However, I promise you that everyone I know will hear your name and know you like making people beg for the possibility of their jobs...

... oh, and good luck with your shoot."

p.s.- apologies for language and if it violates TOS for the Steadicamforum... I'll censor myself here if necessary, but you'd better believe that's every word of what I'd tell the unfortunate person who called me with that suggestion.

Other companies have used paint or sealants for corrosion protection, but based on the experiments done by this company (and disclosed in their white paper), their corrosion treatment seems considerably better. Granted, it's probably worth some outside trials, but their comparisons of salt fog corrosion on polyurethane treated steel vs. NeverWet treated steel looks fantastic.

Again, think of this not so much as waterproofing the "waterproof" but as waterproofing things you wish were waterproof: electronics connections that are otherwise closed off (HDMI port, BNC ports, possibly even the electronics boards themselves), durable fabrics that are still porous (vest fabric, shoes, etc). More importantly, might make cleanup quicker and easier for other materials, since the tests show high bacterial resistance in treated areas. Fake blood or accidental paint (ask Twojay) might clean quicker and more easily without requiring a costly trip to the manufacturer.

I guess the car paint industry did the best with what they could 10 years ago. Thank goodness for innovation and new technologies.

Jens: waterproof as in water impermeability is well established. This product claims to create a superhyrdrophobic coating, which prevents the water from flattening onto those surfaces and getting into "seams". By coating the aluminum and the seams, the tendency for water to never "flatten" but instead bead up and roll off means it might not seep into the cracks. As the examples show, they treated cloth with the coating, and water rolled off the fabric which is probably more porous and filled with gaps than metal-to-metal seams.

I'll run some tests and post the results, but I would say this: seams that are "top-side" (facing the sky) might not prevent water from leaking in by NeverWet, but seals anywhere else that gravity has the ability to pull the nearly-spherical water droplets down means they won't break surface tension and seep into micro-crevasses like metal-to-metal seams.

Of course, if the seam is a confidence issue, a simple quick-drying rubber gasket could be created by applying it to the seam, followed by an additional treatment of NeverWet.

As far as plexi or glass, they state this product shouldn't be used on anything clear and intended to stay that way, as it does leave a foggy coating that makes clear into translucent. If you want your monitor coated, try Rain-X sold at most auto shops. The treatment, when applied properly, is nearly invisible and causes water to bead up. Gravity will make it roll off, so unless you're operating tabled, you should be OK.

I've been following Liquipel (http://www.liquipel.com/) for awhile. This looks like a nice end user solution, but it would be nice if manufacturers coated their products in hydrophobic compounds during the manufacturing process. Wouldn't we all love a waterproof Cinetronic?

I hear the Cinetronic Gen 2 IS waterproof (as in, full immersion waterproof)... now if only I could actually GET mine.

Here's a part of the white paper on the durability:

Ross data is also compared by SH coating described in recent literature and tested at Ross. Figure 3 shows that Ross coatings are over 200 times more durable than competitive coatings. Ross coatings are not only durable but can also be applied to many substrates such as various metals and alloys, glass, rubber, ceramics, and fabrics. The coatings can be applied to both simple and complex contoured shapes. The complex shape coated with Ross Coating is section of steam generator, Fig. 4. This section of the steam turbine was tested in a wind turbine at 68miles/hour under simulated steam turbine water condensing conditions. No condensation was noted on Ross coated surfaces under these test conditions.

 

 

 

The Ross coatings have been tested for upper use temperature and data shows that they can be used up to 205oC (400oF) for long periods and can have temperature transients of up to 288oC (550oF). On the lower end we have dipped our aluminum coated sample in to liquid Nitrogen and brought to room temperature and every time it was at RT, we bent it ~10 degrees. At least 10 liquid nitrogen dips were done and each dip was for about 3 minutes. Total bend angle was 120 degrees. We found that the cycling in liquid nitrogen and bending after such a thermal gradient did not produce any delamination or chipping of the coating. The sample was still superhydrophobic.

How can you tell when it is time to reapply this coating? They never say what the half life of this is.

The company that invented the stuff has a White Paper I just downloaded, shows a piece of steel that was exposed to 1,000 hours of salt fog coated in polyurethane and another coated in NeverWet, and the NeverWet stuff has minimal corrosion. They seem to be advertising it for industrial solutions. I would bet you could introduce it to the normal cleaning cycle (you guys do clean your gear regularly, RIGHT?) and just reapply anytime you wipe it down.

I'll hose down a wash cloth in the stuff tomorrow and see how it does. Also curious to know how quickly casual contact degrades it (like coating the top of the arm, etc).

Will the coating last how resistant is it to scratches? what happens on the long run?

You know what I know: is an adhesive coating that's is "ultra hydrophobic", so it repels water pretty amazingly. I imagine it wears or scratches away like any other paint or adhesive coating. I'm going to test it to see how it goes.

I think its best not to inhale it!

Important safety tip, thanks Egon.

I remember reading about this product last year, but it's finally on shelves at Home Depot right now.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-18-oz-NeverWet-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Kit-274232/204216476

Base coat and a top coat, says there's enough for 10-15 sq ft of coverage. All of the product demonstrations on the YouTube video are pretty inspiring. I'm going to go pick up a kit and give me vest a trial run. However, seems like it might be a good way to "waterproof" your sled and equipment. Looks like it will work on just about anything you don't need to be clear afterwards, since it leaves a foggy layer afterwards.

Anyway, seemed cool and wanted to share. Off to Home Depot I go...

Post on the forum more often, Michelle. You always have such nice things to say!

I would recommend either a Bartech or maybe Hocus Focus' new Axis 1 system. I have confidence in the HF unit, but I also know personally the Bartech is utterly bulletproof. If things don't work out, the investment will retain a lot of value and resale won't give you much of a problem. I would say go with something professional, supported and powerful so you can grow as an operator.

I've had mine for over a year, and I love it! Really nice product, Matthias!

I'll post pics later, but I did want to clarify my tongue-in-cheek response. I have the Sachtler tilting telescopic monitor arm , and I'm very happy with it.

How I have it on my rig allows me to keep the monitor very tight to the rig (or away from the rig if I wish), and I can set the height relative to the batteries to ensure I'm coplanar for whatever battery configuration I might have. 1 battery or 3, I can set the height. Further, since the arm stretches down from the tilting rosette, the monitor feels more stable than if the telescoping arms went straight out. Plus the position with the Cinetronic monitor yoke limits the possibility of spinning loose due to horizontal forces.

Good price on the unit, thanks for the heads up. I don't need loop thru either, I'd rather port the signal thru the monitor's loop.

Congratulations, Peter. Your new system is phenomenal, and I can't wait to see what else you have in store down the road. Seriously, this was the fastest wireless follow focus unit I've seen!

Ben, really awesome to read that you're doing this stuff. I'm hoping to order my own printer here soon, possibly my birthday present to myself in August. Probably going to go with the Deezmaker printer, since the guys who make them are in Pasadena and the printer is also self-replicating (so my 1 printer could easily become 4+).

What made you go with the Solidoodle? I see it was a print space vs. cost equation, but are you happy so far with the Solidoodle?

Have you considered any modifications for insulating the print bed area of the Solidoodle and trying to maintain ambient temperature? Looks like the unit is already fairly enclosed, so you're already halfway there! From what I've read, a print space of more than 6"^3 makes the print susceptible to warping as printed area cools faster than the current print layers, even with a heated bed.

I figured my first project would be a Lock-It Box "caddy" for attaching to the camera, but also considered a cable caddy for managing the mess of cables these HD cameras always are.

Anyway, very cool, looking forward to seeing what you come up with next!

the sachtler is not 15mm...it's smaller

What it lacks in girth, it makes up for in vibration.

... :lol:

Looks like Sachtler makes what I am looking for. If those are indeed 15mm rods. and I can replace them..

 

When looking for a monitor Yoke what do you guys look for?

I've got the Sachtler tilting monitor arm on my PRO sled, worked out great for me so far. I don't have digital calipers so I can't measure, but I've got a feeling they are 15mm. When I stop by the Sachtler booth at CineGear today, I'll ask if anyone can confirm.

Andrew takes care of his equipment, so if you're looking and this is the right arm for you, you can't do better than Andrew.

I was going to say your monitor is ready, but since you are prepared to wait..... :P

Now that's just cruel. If it's ready, I'll take it!

sold

 

when can I pick it up?

 

Preorders open next week, payment expected immediately, delivery in 6-8 weeks pending delivery of the springs (the last batch didn't boing nicely enough).... assuming no bugs are discovered. :blink: :D

I swear to god, the way some people have indicated certain individuals posting here has made them reluctant to contribute or sign in to this forum... that's how I'm feeling as the conversation about this ONE piece of equipment spirals into the 7th level of hell.

We get it. Amateurs and fakers LOVE it. DSLR shooters think it's the thing that will FINALLY make them legitimate. Veterans hate it, and professionals give an enthusiastic "Meh...". Aside from the potluck of filmmaking equipment embarrassments, is there really any usefulness to this thread anymore?

This thread has become the Westboro Baptist Church of ALL SteadicamForum threads: while I defend the thread's rights, I kinda want to see it hit with a brick or disappear.

Have you considered making the bottom/foot area contoured to the same shape/dimensions of a junior pin, or however the base of a C-stand that pins into a turtle base? Might give another option for people who are short on space/area? Along with the rubber nub, be able to drop it into a turtle base quick and easy. Just thinking out loud.

And I read this the morning I've started my safety classes through CSATF. Very sobering, very real danger and very dangerous accidents. Everyone stay safe and aware, and watch out for each other!