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Posts posted by William Demeritt
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20 minutes later I'm traipsing about the shop like an overgrown ballerina
Pics/video or it didn't happen.
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I have designs on us pulling off the Great Transmitter Debacle this summer and it would be easy enough to fold in a mini-monitor comparison at the same time.
I've got a rolling cooler and a Camelbak. Let's set out on this magical journey. I may even film BTS so we can create our own Blair Transmitter Project.
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Perhaps the newer Teradek Bond could be used?
http://www.teradek.com/bond.html
Allows for cellular bonding, so you can stream over 3G and 4G networks. Again assuming you were in a good cellular coverage area, you could stream video live from it, but also coordinate the playback of dailies?
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Yea, the Decimator 2 scaling to HDMI is a quick solution to get HD-SDI to HDMI for most people (since a lot of folks already own a Decimator 2 but don't use it for that purpose). However, if the camera already does HDMI output, you can go straight from that (as I understand it).
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Michelle,
Hello and welcome to the forum! We encourage everyone here to post using their real names... aren't you "Michelle Bridges" now?
:lol: one more darn place to deal with the name change!
Have a great holiday weekend!
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Demeritt,
You better not have said yes to what I turned down ? Lol
FYI: it was $72.72 hr. $800 for 10 hrs
Hey, I got a wedding to pay for! :lol: No sir, I may have done some dumb things last weekend, but that wasn't one of them.
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Oye! that was a tragic moment in Steadicam History
Pretty standard moment in Glidecam history.
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Michael if it makes you feel any better, I just turned down two weeks because the rate is too low
It makes me feel better.....
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An overlay to the HD-SDI would be fantastic, especially if it had negligible frame delay (or none whatsoever). An HDMI version might benefit a few people, but I think you'd find them less interested in spending the money. An HD-SDI version, however, would sell like hotcakes!
A separate display option would be nice as well, something similar to a bubble level that you can physically place on the monitor, matte box, wherever...
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I will buy you one, and have much to discuss. Especially on the topic of calling someone first.
Mind if I tag along? I could use a few.
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Perhaps a public forum no, but perhaps open discussions about rates yes? Public forums have too much opportunity for vigilante-ism.
I had an idea a few weeks ago for doing a mailing list where everyone lists the jobs they're doing, the rates they're getting, etc. For the cost of no judgments (unless you quietly take it up between yourself and someone specific), everyone hears what rates they're getting on what shows. More importantly, in there: we name names.
That data lends itself to establishing historical data, so if Operator B gets a call for a show that Operator A usually does, not only does Operator B know what A gets, but he also knows what people have gotten in years prior, or for the same company/studio.
Compliance with this list also lets other operators know you're not out on the fringe.
If everyone vouched for 5 operators, and those guys vouched for 5 operators... I think we'd have everyone on board quickly.
Just an idea?
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Any opinions on which one to buy? 6.5" or 7"?
Thanks
Dan
I went with the 6.5" 4:3 Cinetronic because I was coming from a 4:3 PRO monitor, and despite mostly doing HD gigs, wanted to stay with what I knew. Also, on the 4:3 monitor, when a 16:9 image comes up, I get black bars on top and bottom. When Chris' digital level is released, the level should place the image over the black bar at top or bottom, instead of on my image.
Also, I actually wanted the smaller image so I could take in more of what I was shooting, scan the corners quicker and memorize the shot dynamics.
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With all due respect Rich, I don't see any Tiffen bashing. I see numerous people trying to offer you helpful insight into purchasing the equipment that's already compatible with your ecosystem. If certain functions of the A2 and Tiffen sleds in general appeal to you moreso, then disregard people's input urging you towards sleds compatible with what you already own.
However, as far as I can tell, nobody has bashed Tiffen here. To encourage another manufacturer for any reason does not construe bashing.
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Does the guilty party get to eat the philly cheesesteak once whacked with it? I'll say all sorts of things for an authentic cheesesteak!
On a more serious note, if you wanted to just get enough components to swap to "lightweight sled mode", maybe consider the PRO modular components they just announced? I think you can use your U1 centerpost and gimbal, so just invest in the UJB/LJB, DB2, Gen IV battery hanger and whatever else. Cuts out the cost of a new gimbal and centerpost.
Or, you can build a full modular "light/live" sled (with Tally) for around $16k.
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2 Black and 2 Gray you mean!
What he said
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I just priced this out:
PRO Atlas Arm with 2 black, 2 grey: $13,200
PRO Vest: $5,200
PRO modular sled in most affordable configuration (fixed centerpost, Gen IV battery, DB2, no bells gimbal grip): $15,903
PRICE OUT THE DOOR for a sled, arm and vest with 50lbs lifting capacity: $34,303.
And you can upgrade individual components as needed to the larger sled, including the arm and sled?
Great price!
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I tried to vote for Perdo, but somehow I voted for Buchanan.
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If you got all arms together and subjected them to the exact same tests and exact same variables, you'd see a pretty good demonstration of differences in performance. However, it's unfortunately not as simple as... if your arm does or doesn't do X, it fails.
I'm currently working on a few tests we could hold to show off each arm's performance. All manufacturers included (hopefully), all arms subjected to the same tests mechanically performed. I've got 4 tests so far I think...
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If memory serves, 9V rechargeable batteries are pretty dismal for recharging. I don't see those around very often.
I personally bounce around about 20 "Eneloop" AA and 20 AAA batteries that I've bought at Costco over the years for use in my household personal electronics. They hold a charge fairly well (Apple now sells rechargeable, rebranded batteries in their stores which are Eneloops).
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James,
I have velcro on the two 7.4V batteries that come with it, and velcro on my recorder mount on my PRO2 base. I just stick it on the velcro with the BNC ports facing the post. I operate normal, so the screen faces "away" from me, but when I'm docked I can watch playback on the screen.
I'm considering figuring out another solution for mounting, possibly a clamp to the post that has a 1/4-20 screw, but I fly with a short post as often as possible, so I don't have much mounting space.
The batteries generally get me through a full day, and then some. One feature I use regularly is the screen lock/disable. With the newer firmware (I think past 2.8), you can press the power button (short press) to lock the screen and disable the display. It still records, but the screen remains off. Once they get the record trigger over HD-SDI working for most cameras (it's still hit and miss), you can just attach the device, power it on, turn off display and only turn it back on if you need to review a take.
They're also supposed to start shipping the P-tap to dummy battery terminal any day now, I'll consider that for powering it. In the mean time, those 7.4V Sony batteries are available on Amazon for like $10-15 a pop, and I can squeeze a full day out of them. Only problem is the weight they add.
As it stands, I do not run video from camera to the Atomos then to my sled monitor (for fear of cables shorting out, Samurai dropping signal for some reason, etc). I need to make an HD-SDI capable switcher box so I can feed my Cinetronic monitor 1 HD-SDI line, but have it coming from a box with 2 sources on a switch so I can watch playback from the Samurai on my sled monitor.
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I've got the Atomos Samurai, and I've had some great luck with it. They're improving the software for it frequently.
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Where are you guys registered?
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I found a pic of the new grey canisters...it`s...GREY! :D
http://www.fdtimes.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/FDTimes-L1000471.jpg
Sweet, I'm photobombing right through the weight cage!
how to increase the "weight" on a Bartech remote
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Woe is us, desperately searching for someone who might have an answer to this RIDDLE of our generation!?